Bogging 2012 with cardboard brown PTO side and black Mag side sparkplugs....THOUGHTS?

uh-oh

Ordered new ones, but am I missing an o-ring on the end? I thought I read online that there was a green o-ring on the end but I'm not seeing one... does that mean it fell to the bottom of my motor or did the blue ones not have one on the end possibly? I was able to get the rail and stuff out by pulling the air box so I did NOT pull the motor. Am I now in for a lot more work? Also I ordered injectors for a 2012 motor but looking at the parts diagrams it would appear I should have ordered the 2011 version since they are different part numbers, both yellow, but the 2012 version lists for $300 and the 2011 for $168...



I found this comparison online and it appears the 2012 and 2011 are definitely different. New question is the one on the right is what appears to be the same as mine but I only have 2 o-rings and his has 3. I have the two fat black/green ones it appears but I don't have the brown one but again maybe that is a Bosch vs. Deka (that's the stamp on my injector). Also looked at the ECU and it's labeled Yellow so appears it's been flashed and I'm running the "yellow" injectors even though they are blue?

https://www.snowest.com/forum/forum.vb/picture.php?albumid=3652&pictureid=35327

diamonddave said:

The picture you are referring to he is comparing a 2011 injector to a replacement 2012 injector for a 2011.

Are you sure you have a 2012 and not a 2011?

As for this, if you have a 2012 cylinder then yes you need a green top hat style o'ring on the injector. It will sit on the end of the injector and seal in between the injector and the bottom of the hole in the cylinder for which the injector plugs into.

Your 2012 should have had these in them. If they weren't in there, then either then fell off your original injectors when you removed them, are still in the cylinder, or were unintentionally left out in the past.

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It would appear I have a 2011 motor with the updated 2011 yellow injectors.

diamonddave said:

The injector code you are showing is for an electrical fault with the injector not a mechanical fault. Make sure you verify the pins and wiring going all the way to the ECU. Check that connector closely for corrosion and/or compromises, etc.

You are also showing the Throttle switch codes. This can also attribute to the runnability issues you are having.

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New injectors and harness have been ordered. Is there a way to test the ecu? Others have commented if an injector fails electrically it will go into a closed state and run lean but I'm seeing the opposite which is confusing.

Would the throttle switch cause one cylinder to run normal and the other rich and bog?