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2010 m8 low end bog (oil pump sticking)?

gongshowm1000

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Nov 28, 2007
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i have a low end bog on my 2010 m8, when it is sitting there idling it idles at 15-1700 rpm, were as before it would idle 1900-2000. it bogs up untill about 5500-6000 rpm then it runs fine. it is really bad when you are powder turning going down hill, it is like it is loading up (gettin to much fuel) i checked my plugs and wires, disconnected my tss and nothing changed. i noticed that i used alot of oil on my last ride out, i used almost a litre of oil to half a tank of fuel, i remember reading a post were someone had there oil pump sticking, i used the search but i can't open the link up for some reason (it was 2009 m8 oil pump sticking). if anyone knows a fix for the oil pump sticking i would appreciate it. is there anything else to look for that could cause the bog.

Thanks Gongshow
 
S
I am about to disconnect my TSS for a similar problem. When I am at idle, I give it gas to move and it hesitates and is boggy. After 2-3 seconds of moving, it clears up. I tried belt deflection but didn't really make a difference in the long term. I do have a fix for my oil pump. I put a o-ring around the 2 notches on the oil pump where the throttle rotates. There's posts here on how to do it.

I'm going to clean my power valves tonight and adjust the cables but I'm 99.9% certain that would not affect low-end throttle.

I may disassemble the primary to make sure the spring is not broken.
 
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RMOD800

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Nov 18, 2008
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My 2010 M8 was not very clean on the bottom either. I decided to remove the oil pump and run pre-mix. That seemed to clean up the bottom and haven't fouled plugs since. I am very happy with the performance. The only draw back is pre-mixing. It's a slight inconvenience.
 
S
My 2010 M8 was not very clean on the bottom either. I decided to remove the oil pump and run pre-mix. That seemed to clean up the bottom and haven't fouled plugs since. I am very happy with the performance. The only draw back is pre-mixing. It's a slight inconvenience.

Did you try the o-ring solution first? What ratio are you using? I may try to run a tank of pre-mix after disconnecting / draining the oil tank and see what happens.

I cleaned my power valves and it probably wasn't necessary given the little crusty oil residue on them. But the cables were 1/8" or more too slack. Not that it could be the cause.
 
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RMOD800

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Nov 18, 2008
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I haven't tried the o ring fix. I run 40:1. Lots of different ideas on the ratios if you do a search. I think I could run a little leaner, but I like a little extra oil. I have heard of engines running at 50:1, but a little lean for me. Hope this helps.
 
S

sledbilly

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Apr 9, 2007
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several posts on HCS about the oil pump actuator arm sticking, should be able to find with a search.

Pretty easy to see if your arm is sticking. look at actuator arm (near top of throttle bodies) and follow down to where it connects with oil pump actuator arm. You probably will need to remove the heat shield. Operate throttle and you will be able to tell right away if it is sticking or not.

My 09 and 11 both had sticking arms and acted the way you describe. The 09 I fixed by wrapping the return spring tighter and the 11 I ziptied the arms together, both good for 1000's of miles.
 

MI1M600EFI

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My '09 was bogging bad off idle, usually right after a decent climb, but sometimes just when I was trying to crawl around with it. It ended up being the belt deflection. Way too much slack in the belt, which was pulling the engine RPM's way down below where it was happy at low speeds. I changed the outer shim pack on the driven pulley to get the belt riding 1/16-1/8" above the sheaves like it's supposed to be, and no more bog!!!

I also investigated the crap out of the "sticking" oil pump. Mine would only stick when the engine was off. Start the engine, and it would immediately return. Unless you know it's sticking with the engine running, I'd look elsewhere.
Good luck!
Chris
 
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