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Has anyone did the c3 beltdrive on there m8000 and did you change your clutching and can you tell any difference in responsiveness? and if so what drive ratio did you go with?
c3 beltdrive
- Thread starter graffs970
- Start date
I did it, one ride and think everything was good. Install on the cat takes a little more time. I think I chose 2.52 gearing, but mine is with a boondocker too. I'd love to hear what some others have done w cluthing as well.
Shouldn't have to change clutching, it's definitely more responsive, not like night and day, but noticeable. We have done 4 of them, and put the c3 supplied ratio in, can't remember what exactly it is. If you are kn the fence, do it
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The C3 belt drive is amazing. If you decide to spend the money on the product you wont be disappointed. I have 2 sleds with the belt drives on them. One is a big-bore and the other is a turbo, they both perform very well. If you want to nit-pick it and find something to complain about you will get some extra vibration from the stiffer motor mounts that you put in. As far as what gear ratio to put in it, are you just doing the belt drive or are you going to do the belt drive and 7 tooth drivers and a 3" track or a belt drive stock drivers and a 3' track? From my seat of the pants feel on the gear ratio that you choose it feels like the belt drive gears it down on the bottom end and then somehow gears it up on the top end.
Here is the nice part about the system, for your ratio that you will need no matter if its just the belt drive now or a 3' track or a big bore or a turbo later you will probably get the 63 tooth bottom gear. If you need or want to change gears for some reason you just get a new top gear, the same belt should work for all of the ratios that you will need. It actually takes less than 10 minutes to change the top gear. Top gears are about $130.
Here is the nice part about the system, for your ratio that you will need no matter if its just the belt drive now or a 3' track or a big bore or a turbo later you will probably get the 63 tooth bottom gear. If you need or want to change gears for some reason you just get a new top gear, the same belt should work for all of the ratios that you will need. It actually takes less than 10 minutes to change the top gear. Top gears are about $130.
The whole what ratio to use on the belt drives can get really confusing. This person says that he likes this and another person says that he likes that. Call C3 and ask what ratio to get for what you want to do and you wont be disappointed in what you get. I ordered a belt drive kit for my turbo that was getting 7 tooth drivers and a 3' track and when it came it had the 2.63 ratio gears in it. I was a little PO'D, I thought that it would go like crazy for 100 feet and then fall on its face. To my surprise I don't know if I have felt it fall on its face yet. Is that good or bad I'm not sure, but I'm not going to blame anybody for it. Since then I have received a couple new top gears to try and see if I like them.
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I've owned 3 belt drives now. 1100 Turbo with over 300hp.
Cutler 950 carbon cat
SLP stg 2 carbon cat.
All three are awesome. Throttle response was the first thing I noticed on the 1100 turbo. And on 300hp, it's a lot harder to notice "small changes" vs on something more underpowered like the 800.
I had a chaincase catastrophy, and will never run a chaincase again.
Cutler 950 carbon cat
SLP stg 2 carbon cat.
All three are awesome. Throttle response was the first thing I noticed on the 1100 turbo. And on 300hp, it's a lot harder to notice "small changes" vs on something more underpowered like the 800.
I had a chaincase catastrophy, and will never run a chaincase again.
C3
I have two c3 drives installed on my M1100T, and wife's ProRMK (to replace the QD setup). Have another sitting on the bench to go on my backup sled: a 2013 M800 S/P Ltd. The C3 drive performs better then stock - better throttle response (spools up quicker), is lighter, and I can carry a spare belt with me if I break one on the mountain - can be changed out in 20 minutes with basic hand tools, even on the 4 stroker.
I'll put it this way: I personally won't own another sled without a belt drive. The strength and piece of mind of not being stranded in the backcountry is worth the price of admission.
I have two c3 drives installed on my M1100T, and wife's ProRMK (to replace the QD setup). Have another sitting on the bench to go on my backup sled: a 2013 M800 S/P Ltd. The C3 drive performs better then stock - better throttle response (spools up quicker), is lighter, and I can carry a spare belt with me if I break one on the mountain - can be changed out in 20 minutes with basic hand tools, even on the 4 stroker.
I'll put it this way: I personally won't own another sled without a belt drive. The strength and piece of mind of not being stranded in the backcountry is worth the price of admission.
G
Thanks for the info. It should be in this week and I did the 2.63 gear
You made a good choice graffs970! You will be very happy with it. Thanks for posting your ratio also. I was thinking about starting a post on what ratio everyone chose for their belt drives and what their thoughts are about it. I think that the belt drives are going to become a big upgrade for the Proclimb. Too bad they cost so much!!!
graffs970, not going to lie, i only clicked on this thread because of your name... lol!
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where is the best place to buy the belt drive kit. I like the weight savings and the reliability. lastly it never hurts to get a bit more power when you pin it.
Either racinstation or direct from C3 both of them will take good care of you and are very helpful. I went with 2.52 and later added a 3" and 7 tooth drivers this combo works good for me
If ur from Canada, get it from c3, if ur n the USA, get it from racinstation
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Thanks guys
I had one installed on my Pro Lite. Can't tell any difference in performance, the 900 makes a lot of power and I think it over shadows whatever gain the belt drive can give.. It saves a lot of weight and has been bullet proof though. Sled vibrates a LOT more now. I want to start messing with gear ratios and see what happens.
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How bad are the vibrations? My stock 14 has some pretty healthy vibrations in the running boards already. Any concerns about things cracking? If you were to buy another prolite, would you spend the money on a belt drive again?
My next sled will have a belt drive no doubt. The vibrations are noticeable at the beginning, but I honestly don't notice it any more, even jumping to a stocker. We have a full year on one and almost a season on three and haven't had anything break, including two turbos sleds and a big borr
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I even did the TTCF at same time as belt drive so it pretty much solid mounts the engine. I could feel it big time for first few miles. After that don't even notice it. On turbos etc... I think belt drive is a no brainer. First season on mine I was scared of blowing chain an being stranded. Now no worries.
