Kinked tunnel and right side Rad

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BenSendIt

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Feb 26, 2019

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• Feb 26, 2019

• #1

Hey all,

Took what appeared to be a nice kicker set up and landed upright on a tree head ... It went between the track and tunnel and ended up with a pretty serious dent on the tunnel and the rad has been crushed in a little bit too.

No leaks and the sled is not over heating so I guess I was lucky. Any way this can be fixed without replacing the whole tunnel ?

Thanks folks

 

W

willjogervais

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• Feb 26, 2019

• #2

Pics?

 

Norway

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• Feb 26, 2019

• #3

willjogervais said:

Pics?

Click to expand...

I want to say yes, it can be fixed. Had something similar happen to me.
But like the man says, show is what we are talking about and you will get plenty of help.

One advise up front; heat aluminium before bending back!

Sent fra min S60 via Tapatalk

 

J

jim

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Nov 26, 2007

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• Feb 26, 2019

• #4

One advise up front; heat aluminium before bending back!

Click to expand...

Don't do this please. Aluminum begins to precipitate heat treat (or change) at only 350F (which is what any heat source will get the metal to immediately). And it will anneal (get really soft) at 550F (which is not hard to get to either).

If you have to re-form this metal, try to do it with minimal pounding/bending to get it back to original shape. It will work harden easily as well...which means it will crack.

So, yeah, post pics and people can help. But, generally, I have fixed tunnels successfully by using a large mallet, some 2x4s (minimizes dents) and maybe a clamp (a large clamp with a 2x4 on each clamp surface can fix a lot of major bends right off the bat). Then you can use a single 2x4 and the mallet to straighten things to their final form.

 

Norway

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• Feb 27, 2019

• #5

jim said:

Don't do this please. Aluminum begins to precipitate heat treat (or change) at only 350F (which is what any heat source will get the metal to immediately). And it will anneal (get really soft) at 550F (which is not hard to get to either).

If you have to re-form this metal, try to do it with minimal pounding/bending to get it back to original shape. It will work harden easily as well...which means it will crack.

So, yeah, post pics and people can help. But, generally, I have fixed tunnels successfully by using a large mallet, some 2x4s (minimizes dents) and maybe a clamp (a large clamp with a 2x4 on each clamp surface can fix a lot of major bends right off the bat). Then you can use a single 2x4 and the mallet to straighten things to their final form.

Click to expand...

Like I said, something similar happened to me. I fixed it and I used a gas torch to heat the alu before bending it back.

Yes, you have to take it easy With alu. But if it is more than slightly bent, it will likely crack if you just force it back.. Broken a lot of alu parts through the years. My 2011 pro tunell was bent like 6 years ago and is still doing great. Had to reinforce the tunell of course. My Choice is long Cat/Yamaha bumpers all the way to the rear of the running Boards.

 

B

BenSendIt

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Feb 26, 2019

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• Mar 4, 2019

• #6

Thanks guys! I'll get some pics tonight and you can tell how bad y'all think it is

 

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Sheer

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• Mar 4, 2019

• #7

BenSendIt said:

Thanks guys! I'll get some pics tonight and you can tell how bad y'all think it is

Click to expand...

Did you at least send it ben? Lol

 

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BenSendIt

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• Mar 7, 2019

• #8

I did send it Sheer haha

 

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BenSendIt

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• Mar 7, 2019

• #9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ePjKQ48z2oCcf8Hk8

Here are some pictures. Not sure if it works. If not anyone knows the best way to share them here ?

Thanks

 

Norway

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• Mar 7, 2019

• #10

I could ser them.

Seems like it's pretty much the right side cooler extrusion? Not much damage to the tunnel sides.

My sled, I would bite the bullet and get welding help. Empty coolant, oil and remove gas tank. Remove suspension.

Then, cut out a square section of the damaged area from underneath. Heat the "hump" and hammer it down using a block of wood against the alu and hitting that with the hammer til flat.
Pull and bend on the edges underneath and weld in the square section again after pounding it flat.

My emediate idea anyway..

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jptbay

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• Mar 7, 2019

• #11

That doesn't look too bad at all.

I would start with a big soft faced dead blow hammer from the top, and see how things shape up.

If it straitens out nicely, I wouldn't worry about smacking anything from the bottom, and just buy a bumper with long rail support.

 

Norway

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• Mar 7, 2019

• #12

jptbay said:

That doesn't look too bad at all.



I would start with a big soft faced dead blow hammer from the top, and see how things shape up.



If it straitens out nicely, I wouldn't worry about smacking anything from the bottom, and just buy a bumper with long rail support.

Click to expand...

Yeah.. you'll get the top straight alright. But there needs to be a coolant passage inside that extrusion. I would at least do something to check flow after pounding it flat!

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BenSendIt

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• Mar 12, 2019

• #13

Thanks guys! Will try to straighten things from the top. I can guarantee there is still coolant flow as the sled does not overheat at all even in warm temperatures.

Thanks again folks!!