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stronger bars???

richardderkevorkian

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Feb 7, 2010
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Soldotna AK
What's everyone running for bars? Stock bars are junk so I tried a set of 1 1/8 rsi bar's. They didn't last much longer than the stockers.

Anyone had luck finding a set that will survive rolling over to get unstuck?
 
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bradburck

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Jan 13, 2008
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Colorado
Cat supposed to have new ones for this year that are thicker.. I suppose only time will tell. My stockers have been ok... won't replace until they finally die.
 

High Country

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Feb 18, 2008
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Canada
I'm running the carbon fiber wrapped aluminum Fly bars ...have had good luck so far (fingers crossed) I've bent many stockers !
I did see the new Cat heavy duty bars in the Accessory book ...worth a try I suppose !
My Flys have seen many roll overs ...and going strong !!

 

nomasittinright

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Premium Member
Feb 5, 2009
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Aberdeen SD
I went with the hcr post 4" rsi riser and the 1 1/8 aluminum race bend and cut the extra hook off. Hit a lot of trees and rollovers this year and never bent the bars. Hcr post allowed the bars to rotate back instead of bending
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CO 2.0

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Fort Collins, CO
I have the HCR post too. Bent two sets of '14 bars this past season. RSI 3" risers. Not wrecking either. Just jumps and landings, maybe rolling the sled over is what prob caused them to bend. POS IMO. I'm waiting on the '15 bars. On backorder until mid Aug at the earliest.
 

richardderkevorkian

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Soldotna AK
Thanks guys! I ordered a set of protaper Evo's. See if they are any stronger than the carbon wrapped rsi bars. I'm running an hcr post as well that I stiffened up with a piece of chromaly. With the headlight delete there's a lot of stress on the post and bars while it's upside down. I am also running the fly adjustable handle bar riser so I mounts nice and wide on the bars
 

boondocker97

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Oct 30, 2008
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Billings MT
What's everyone running for bars? Stock bars are junk so I tried a set of 1 1/8 rsi bar's. They didn't last much longer than the stockers.

Anyone had luck finding a set that will survive rolling over to get unstuck?

I was thinking of putting the RSI carbon bars on my sled this year. Did yours break from just rolling over once getting unstuck or multiple rolls down the hill? My '14 stock bars seemed to survive through plenty of single rolls to get unstuck, but I don't roll the sled over if the snow is very hard.
 

richardderkevorkian

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Feb 7, 2010
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Soldotna AK
I was thinking of putting the RSI carbon bars on my sled this year. Did yours break from just rolling over once getting unstuck or multiple rolls down the hill? My '14 stock bars seemed to survive through plenty of single rolls to get unstuck, but I don't roll the sled over if the snow is very hard.

They never broke but they bent far too easy.
 

Summitseeker

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British Columbia
Took this from the website. A few peeps in my riding group have them and LOVE them. Dave did great job on these!

Introducing The Boondocker bar. The new cutting edge snowmobiles that have been released in the past few years require less effort and therefore the designs of the handlebars need to change. Designed from feedback from our network of Team riders and users, the Boondocker by CFR is the result! Do you love to ride in deep pow, lay big pow carves maneuvering through tight trees and whip off of every jump in sight?

Is your snowmobile your helicopter for accessing powder snow either skiing and or snowboarding? The CFR Boondocker with its 30 inch width, 12 degree sweep and 7 Degree Bar rise was made for you. This Bar was designed from the inside out. First of all we used 7075 double butted heat treated aluminum for a strong yet light weight base. In the center, where the stem clamps, we use a larger 1 ⅛"wall thickness, but at the end the bar tapers to ⅞".This allows the energy to dissipate over a consistent and gradual tapering within the inner core.

What's the result? Much more strength, but also much better dampening of hard hits and a better feel for what's going on underneath you on the snow. The ⅞" tapering thickness also allows the snowmobile controls to fit directly on the bar. On the outside we added a side to side and forward backward template so you can center and clamp the bar just where you want it without a tape measure. The 37 degree bar ends are great for keeping your hands from slipping off the handlebar and putting you into a tree! We wanted the Boondocker to last and look good with age so the Flat Black bars are anodized and the Monster Green and ghost white bars have a triple layered Powder coated finish.

Specs
•2' Rise
•7 Degree Up
•12 Degree back
•30" Width
•Made from 7075 Heat treated super Aluminum with flex technology.
•Strong, Light weight and tough as ****!!
•Better positioning than stock bars and way stronger! The new design dissipates bumpy conditions better than stock bars keeping you fresh and riding longer!
•Vertical and horizontal positioning graphics for perfect centering and pull back angulation.
•Designed as an all-around Boondock, hill climbing, jump and tandeming bar with 38 degree angulations on the end of the bars to keep your hands from slipping off.
•Custom graphics in three color ways. Monster Green, Ghost White or Flat black.
•All Handle bars come with a CFR Bar Pad.
 

High Country

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Feb 18, 2008
994
297
63
Canada
Took this from the website. A few peeps in my riding group have them and LOVE them. Dave did great job on these!

Introducing The Boondocker bar. The new cutting edge snowmobiles that have been released in the past few years require less effort and therefore the designs of the handlebars need to change. Designed from feedback from our network of Team riders and users, the Boondocker by CFR is the result! Do you love to ride in deep pow, lay big pow carves maneuvering through tight trees and whip off of every jump in sight?

Is your snowmobile your helicopter for accessing powder snow either skiing and or snowboarding? The CFR Boondocker with its 30 inch width, 12 degree sweep and 7 Degree Bar rise was made for you. This Bar was designed from the inside out. First of all we used 7075 double butted heat treated aluminum for a strong yet light weight base. In the center, where the stem clamps, we use a larger 1 ⅛"wall thickness, but at the end the bar tapers to ⅞".This allows the energy to dissipate over a consistent and gradual tapering within the inner core.

What's the result? Much more strength, but also much better dampening of hard hits and a better feel for what's going on underneath you on the snow. The ⅞" tapering thickness also allows the snowmobile controls to fit directly on the bar. On the outside we added a side to side and forward backward template so you can center and clamp the bar just where you want it without a tape measure. The 37 degree bar ends are great for keeping your hands from slipping off the handlebar and putting you into a tree! We wanted the Boondocker to last and look good with age so the Flat Black bars are anodized and the Monster Green and ghost white bars have a triple layered Powder coated finish.

Specs
•2' Rise
•7 Degree Up
•12 Degree back
•30" Width
•Made from 7075 Heat treated super Aluminum with flex technology.
•Strong, Light weight and tough as ****!!
•Better positioning than stock bars and way stronger! The new design dissipates bumpy conditions better than stock bars keeping you fresh and riding longer!
•Vertical and horizontal positioning graphics for perfect centering and pull back angulation.
•Designed as an all-around Boondock, hill climbing, jump and tandeming bar with 38 degree angulations on the end of the bars to keep your hands from slipping off.
•Custom graphics in three color ways. Monster Green, Ghost White or Flat black.
•All Handle bars come with a CFR Bar Pad.



oh these bars are nice !!

BDR_X_3_grande.jpg
 

bopper

Well-known member
Premium Member
Apr 28, 2008
379
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36
elkford,bc
And our stock brake/ throttle assemblies and hand thumb warmers mount on the cheetah's?? Just need new grips or what?


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stusnow

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Nov 27, 2007
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Monashee Mtns
Love my bar setup. I also took the time to mount a different throttle and change the kill & reverse button locations using Moto kill switches. My advice is to buy new heater elements and grips, don't waste time trying to re use the old ones
 
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