Bad post on my part.
That was the next item on my list.
That was the next item on my list.
Installation and Review: Mountain Performance Inc, Stage 1 & 2 Supercharger
- Thread starter christopher
- Start date
Haha, ok thought I was going crazy. :face-icon-small-con:face-icon-small-win
In reading in my instructions, this is the ONE step that has me a little nervous. Not many pics on it either, and honestly they are a little confusing. Looking forward to this part of your build.
One more item had to be added to my list that I missed.
Preparation Checklist.
Air Box- Removed
Battery- Removed
Dash- Removed
Drain Coolant - Done
Drain Oil - Done
Front Bumper- Removed
Fuel Tank- Removed
Headlight Assembly- Removed
Hood- Removed
Lower Side Panels- Removed
Oil Tank- Removed
Radiator and Fan Assembly- Removed
Rear Seat Shrouds- Removed
Reservoir Tank- Dang it, I missed this one!
Side Panels- Removed
Steering Column- Removed
Tank Shrouds- Removed
Throttle Bodies- To Be Done Next
Thermostat Housing -
Preparation Checklist.
Air Box- Removed
Battery- Removed
Dash- Removed
Drain Coolant - Done
Drain Oil - Done
Front Bumper- Removed
Fuel Tank- Removed
Headlight Assembly- Removed
Hood- Removed
Lower Side Panels- Removed
Oil Tank- Removed
Radiator and Fan Assembly- Removed
Rear Seat Shrouds- Removed
Reservoir Tank- Dang it, I missed this one!
Side Panels- Removed
Steering Column- Removed
Tank Shrouds- Removed
Throttle Bodies- To Be Done Next
Thermostat Housing -
Removing the Throttle Bodies.
Safety clip on the fuel rail that connects to the fuel tank has to be released.
Closed Position
Open Position.
Pinch both sides, squeeze, and it will slide right off.
Safety clip on the fuel rail that connects to the fuel tank has to be released.
Closed Position
Open Position.
Pinch both sides, squeeze, and it will slide right off.
There is one wiring harness on the far right that has to come off as well.
It opens and comes off with ease.
It opens and comes off with ease.
There are two small coolant lines.
One on the bottom left and the other on the bottom right.
Pinch the clamps and slide off.
I was expecting some coolant to be left inside, but it was bone dry.
One on the bottom left and the other on the bottom right.
Pinch the clamps and slide off.
I was expecting some coolant to be left inside, but it was bone dry.
While not hard, this last part was a bit of a pain in the butt just because the spaces to work in are very small and tight.
To remove the Throttle bodies from the engine, you have to disconect them from the rubber intake manifold. There are two retaining rings that hold the throttle bodies to the engine. You want to loosen the UPPER rings closest to the throttle bodies, so the rubber manifolds remain on the engine when your done.
Its hard to see, but this is the upper ring you want to release.
To remove the Throttle bodies from the engine, you have to disconect them from the rubber intake manifold. There are two retaining rings that hold the throttle bodies to the engine. You want to loosen the UPPER rings closest to the throttle bodies, so the rubber manifolds remain on the engine when your done.
Its hard to see, but this is the upper ring you want to release.
Once all three of them are loose, just grab hold of the throttle body assembly and lift it right out with no effort at all.
What you should see when they are removed.
What you should see when they are removed.
A peek down the intake manifold
Removing the Thermostat Housing.
This part comes out with no hassle at all.
There is a connection on the back side for the temperature sending unit??
This part comes out with no hassle at all.
There is a connection on the back side for the temperature sending unit??
I remember watching Rexburg Motor Sport install one of these kits last Fall.
One of the biggest pains in the butt of the entire installation was the modification of this thermostat housing.
That small fitting on the right has to be removed, and it doesn't like to come out easily. Will require a good vice and a torch before it releases that tube.
One of the biggest pains in the butt of the entire installation was the modification of this thermostat housing.
That small fitting on the right has to be removed, and it doesn't like to come out easily. Will require a good vice and a torch before it releases that tube.
Removing the Coolant Overflow Tank.
This was a total no brainer! :face-icon-small-hap
There was a tiny bit of residual fluid left in the tank from when I drained the system
The return line is held in place with two small plastic clips right on the frame.
This was a total no brainer! :face-icon-small-hap
There was a tiny bit of residual fluid left in the tank from when I drained the system
The return line is held in place with two small plastic clips right on the frame.
Preparation Checklist.
Air Box- Removed
Battery- Removed
Dash- Removed
Drain Coolant - Done
Drain Oil - Done
Front Bumper- Removed
Fuel Tank- Removed
Headlight Assembly- Removed
Hood- Removed
Lower Side Panels- Removed
Oil Tank- Removed
Radiator and Fan Assembly- Removed
Rear Seat Shrouds- Removed
Reservoir Tank - Removed
Side Panels- Removed
Steering Column- Removed
Tank Shrouds- Removed
Throttle Bodies- Removed
Thermostat Housing - Removed
All preparation done, this is what your left with.
Next Step will be checking my tool inventory to make sure I have all the required goodies, especially the hole saws.
Air Box- Removed
Battery- Removed
Dash- Removed
Drain Coolant - Done
Drain Oil - Done
Front Bumper- Removed
Fuel Tank- Removed
Headlight Assembly- Removed
Hood- Removed
Lower Side Panels- Removed
Oil Tank- Removed
Radiator and Fan Assembly- Removed
Rear Seat Shrouds- Removed
Reservoir Tank - Removed
Side Panels- Removed
Steering Column- Removed
Tank Shrouds- Removed
Throttle Bodies- Removed
Thermostat Housing - Removed
All preparation done, this is what your left with.
Next Step will be checking my tool inventory to make sure I have all the required goodies, especially the hole saws.
A
Very nice Christopher! We appreciate the effort you're putting in for our benefit and enjoyment. The water sports are fun, but it just doesn't cut it. I miss the snow. Keep up the good work.:clap2:
Amen to that brother.
Watersports and Dunesports are plenty fun.
But neither of them compare to SNOW SPORTS with a Track, 2 skis and lots of horsepower!!
Watersports and Dunesports are plenty fun.
But neither of them compare to SNOW SPORTS with a Track, 2 skis and lots of horsepower!!
So that our free members can keep reading this particular thread over the summer, I am breaking it up into sections that do not exceed the free 75 post limit.
Read PART 2 of this thread here.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271946
Read PART 2 of this thread here.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271946
make sure the hole you put in the right bulkhead to hold the sc is perfect cause otherwise you get to close to the right upper oil jug screw spot. cause depending on the upper pulley size it can be pretty tight quaters in there.
tight quaters
all depends on the size of the upper pulleys your running.
all depends on the size of the upper pulleys your running.
THANKS FOR THE WARNING.
2 more tools to get then I can begin.
2 more tools to get then I can begin.
TOOL LIST for installation:
Having read through the entire installation manual, the following tools will be needed to complete the supercharger installation. Tools used in teardown will be used again to reassemble.
"Quality" Torque Wrench, Inch Pound and Foot Pound rated. (9ft/lbs, 14ft/lbs, 50ft/lb, 94ft/lb, 40 in/lbs, 60in/lbs, 80in/lbs)
1 can "Brake Clean" Solvent
1 tube 3M Gasket & Weather Strip Adhesive Glue
1 tube of 3M Semi-Drying 1104 OR Semi-Drying Yamabond 1215
1/4 Dowel Pin for hole saw
1/4 drill bit
10mm socket
11/32 drill bit
19mm socket
21/4 Hole Saw
25/8 Hole Saw
3 Small Pieces of Rubber Edge Trim (to fit into holes in bulkhead)
3/16 drill bit
3/32 Punch
APEX brand Hex Bit, capable of 100in/lbs torque
Black Marking Pen
Calipers capable of reading 0.002-0.010"
Electric Skillet or Electric Frying Pan to heat Sprockets to 375 degrees F.
Engine Oil (I am changing over to AMSOIL now)
Engine Oil Filter (might as well change it now)
Fine Metal File
Gates Tension Tester P/N 7401-0076, Optional
Hammer
Impact Wrench
Knife/Hose Cutter
Low Temperature Water Thermostat (Optional but recommended)
Oil Tank Cleaner/Flush. (Flushing out the Oil tank is required)
Side Cover Gasket (if unable to reuse OEM Gasket after removal)
Red Loctite
Right Angle Drill Adapter
Silicone Spray
Torch (for heating nipple on thermostat to aid in removal)
Vice (to hold thermostat housing)
Zip Ties
Having read through the entire installation manual, the following tools will be needed to complete the supercharger installation. Tools used in teardown will be used again to reassemble.
"Quality" Torque Wrench, Inch Pound and Foot Pound rated. (9ft/lbs, 14ft/lbs, 50ft/lb, 94ft/lb, 40 in/lbs, 60in/lbs, 80in/lbs)
1 can "Brake Clean" Solvent
1 tube 3M Gasket & Weather Strip Adhesive Glue
1 tube of 3M Semi-Drying 1104 OR Semi-Drying Yamabond 1215
1/4 Dowel Pin for hole saw
1/4 drill bit
10mm socket
11/32 drill bit
19mm socket
21/4 Hole Saw
25/8 Hole Saw
3 Small Pieces of Rubber Edge Trim (to fit into holes in bulkhead)
3/16 drill bit
3/32 Punch
APEX brand Hex Bit, capable of 100in/lbs torque
Black Marking Pen
Calipers capable of reading 0.002-0.010"
Electric Skillet or Electric Frying Pan to heat Sprockets to 375 degrees F.
Engine Oil (I am changing over to AMSOIL now)
Engine Oil Filter (might as well change it now)
Fine Metal File
Gates Tension Tester P/N 7401-0076, Optional
Hammer
Impact Wrench
Knife/Hose Cutter
Low Temperature Water Thermostat (Optional but recommended)
Oil Tank Cleaner/Flush. (Flushing out the Oil tank is required)
Side Cover Gasket (if unable to reuse OEM Gasket after removal)
Red Loctite
Right Angle Drill Adapter
Silicone Spray
Torch (for heating nipple on thermostat to aid in removal)
Vice (to hold thermostat housing)
Zip Ties
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