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New to Axys chassis, any must knows or do's?

H

Hansen13

Member
Oct 22, 2011
164
21
18
31
Cranbrook, BC, Canada
New to me 2016 800. Brand new under the hood everything under warranty. Is there anything I must know about them or any must do updates before hitting the mountains? Coming from a Pro chassis I know like the back of my hand to the Axys I'm feeling a little lost haha.
 
S
Oct 4, 2016
695
209
43
north pole alaska
if you search their are a handful of small things that need dun and have ben explained in detail in the archives. im pos. im going to miss some but hears what I remember
1: seal all electoral connections from the back
2: dielectric grease in all connectors/plugs
3: flip all relays to face down {and carry a few extra... cheep on E-bay}
4: move Velcro bag on to steering post support and ensure the connectors are wrapped in bag well
a few things that probably aren't necessary but I always do.
1:seal plastic to bulkhead
2:tether
3:get better ski rubbers they break every other tank of gas {dur-pro or guilf are great products and can both be found on SnoWest.
4:venting on the cowling is poor at best grab a vent kit {or blowhole} of your preference the belt will love you for it! SLP makes a good complete kit but many others do also.
5:rail stiffeners. some say they aren't necessary but im pos. mine would be bent without them! their very affordable from iceadge and have a few color options to match your sled.
6:if you have the 2.6 track it needs to be fully clipped to avoid the blistering/pealing on the un clipped portion of the track. if you have the 3in it has the clips on the lugs of the track witch are where they need to be so you are good to go!
7:....bumpers they are weak. the rear will break {mainly the carbon fiber cross bar} if you get stuck and try to lift from it. their are lots of options but I suggest getting one that reinforces the tunnel also. the front bumper has tabs that break easy and their are good options that replace the bumper and wrap down into a skid plate. hope that helps you out hansen
 

Big D rmk700

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 3, 2001
1,084
167
63
New Ulm, Mn
You must add oil and gas thats all I have done to my pair of 2016!! 3400 miles on one and 2000 on the other and still running great.
 

bryceraisanen

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Mar 5, 2011
988
177
43
36
if you search their are a handful of small things that need dun and have ben explained in detail in the archives. im pos. im going to miss some but hears what I remember
1: seal all electoral connections from the back
2: dielectric grease in all connectors/plugs
3: flip all relays to face down {and carry a few extra... cheep on E-bay}
4: move Velcro bag on to steering post support and ensure the connectors are wrapped in bag well
a few things that probably aren't necessary but I always do.
1:seal plastic to bulkhead
2:tether
3:get better ski rubbers they break every other tank of gas {dur-pro or guilf are great products and can both be found on SnoWest.
4:venting on the cowling is poor at best grab a vent kit {or blowhole} of your preference the belt will love you for it! SLP makes a good complete kit but many others do also.
5:rail stiffeners. some say they aren't necessary but im pos. mine would be bent without them! their very affordable from iceadge and have a few color options to match your sled.
6:if you have the 2.6 track it needs to be fully clipped to avoid the blistering/pealing on the un clipped portion of the track. if you have the 3in it has the clips on the lugs of the track witch are where they need to be so you are good to go!
7:....bumpers they are weak. the rear will break {mainly the carbon fiber cross bar} if you get stuck and try to lift from it. their are lots of options but I suggest getting one that reinforces the tunnel also. the front bumper has tabs that break easy and their are good options that replace the bumper and wrap down into a skid plate. hope that helps you out hansen
New 2018 pro rmk 800

Two pics of the same relay/connectors. Are these the ones you flip upside down?

And then smear liquid electrical tape in all the holes on the other side where the wires go in?

I was hoping there was a sticky for all the electrical connectors that guys have been improving.
73bf5f0ea2a7e6c925e7fc718af37c48.jpg
ca6a3451ac9624deb2caad8282079211.jpg


Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 

bryceraisanen

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Lifetime Membership
Mar 5, 2011
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yep that's it and I filed the back of all the plugs the same way to keep the moister out and a touch of dielectric grease on all the plugs/relays to seal that side of things :D
Should I just do every plug I can find under the hood? Anyone have a pic they would care to share to give me an idea of what were talking?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
S
Oct 4, 2016
695
209
43
north pole alaska
un plug the plug/relay clean if its corded put a small amount of dielectric grease on the pins {dielectric grease is a non conductor so don't over do it} and a bead around the pins where the relay or other side of the plug will mate and create a seal. flip said plug/relay over and fill the back of plug where wires go in to the back with form-a-gasket/liquid electrical tape to prevent water from entering. now the plug should be sealed from the back with form-a-gasket/liquid electrical tape and the middle with the dielectric grease. :D
 

Colbymh

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Sep 1, 2018
325
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28
Oregon
un plug the plug/relay clean if its corded put a small amount of dielectric grease on the pins {dielectric grease is a non conductor so don't over do it} and a bead around the pins where the relay or other side of the plug will mate and create a seal. flip said plug/relay over and fill the back of plug where wires go in to the back with form-a-gasket/liquid electrical tape to prevent water from entering. now the plug should be sealed from the back with form-a-gasket/liquid electrical tape and the middle with the dielectric grease. :D

Good post. Thnx
 

MDEVO

Chic Chocs Addicts
Lifetime Membership
Oct 21, 2011
383
135
43
Oshawa, ON,Canada
if you search their are a handful of small things that need dun and have ben explained in detail in the archives. im pos. im going to miss some but hears what I remember
1: seal all electoral connections from the back
2: dielectric grease in all connectors/plugs
3: flip all relays to face down {and carry a few extra... cheep on E-bay}
4: move Velcro bag on to steering post support and ensure the connectors are wrapped in bag well
a few things that probably aren't necessary but I always do.
1:seal plastic to bulkhead
2:tether
3:get better ski rubbers they break every other tank of gas {dur-pro or guilf are great products and can both be found on SnoWest.
4:venting on the cowling is poor at best grab a vent kit {or blowhole} of your preference the belt will love you for it! SLP makes a good complete kit but many others do also.
5:rail stiffeners. some say they aren't necessary but im pos. mine would be bent without them! their very affordable from iceadge and have a few color options to match your sled.
6:if you have the 2.6 track it needs to be fully clipped to avoid the blistering/pealing on the un clipped portion of the track. if you have the 3in it has the clips on the lugs of the track witch are where they need to be so you are good to go!
7:....bumpers they are weak. the rear will break {mainly the carbon fiber cross bar} if you get stuck and try to lift from it. their are lots of options but I suggest getting one that reinforces the tunnel also. the front bumper has tabs that break easy and their are good options that replace the bumper and wrap down into a skid plate. hope that helps you out hansen


This^
Plus I would get a TPS bypass of Perk, and check your motor mounts for too much play....
 

Teth-Air

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Lifetime Membership
Premium Member
Nov 27, 2007
4,549
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Calgary AB/Nelson BC
www.specified.ca
if you search their are a handful of small things that need dun and have ben explained in detail in the archives. im pos. im going to miss some but hears what I remember
1: seal all electoral connections from the back
2: dielectric grease in all connectors/plugs
3: flip all relays to face down {and carry a few extra... cheep on E-bay}
4: move Velcro bag on to steering post support and ensure the connectors are wrapped in bag well
a few things that probably aren't necessary but I always do.
1:seal plastic to bulkhead
2:tether
3:get better ski rubbers they break every other tank of gas {dur-pro or guilf are great products and can both be found on SnoWest.
4:venting on the cowling is poor at best grab a vent kit {or blowhole} of your preference the belt will love you for it! SLP makes a good complete kit but many others do also.
5:rail stiffeners. some say they aren't necessary but im pos. mine would be bent without them! their very affordable from iceadge and have a few color options to match your sled.
6:if you have the 2.6 track it needs to be fully clipped to avoid the blistering/pealing on the un clipped portion of the track. if you have the 3in it has the clips on the lugs of the track witch are where they need to be so you are good to go!
7:....bumpers they are weak. the rear will break {mainly the carbon fiber cross bar} if you get stuck and try to lift from it. their are lots of options but I suggest getting one that reinforces the tunnel also. the front bumper has tabs that break easy and their are good options that replace the bumper and wrap down into a skid plate. hope that helps you out hansen

You are wrong about the 3" track not needing to be clipped too. They are exactly the same as 2.6".

Also a couple things I do for all AXYS sleds.
1. drill small holes in the skis so they can drain once thawed.
2. add durability shims to the side of the clutch weights after they wear a bit wider.
3. add the flat roller bearings to under the spring cup in the secondary otherwise it's metal on metal wear.
4. install Arm Candy A-arm braces
5. install our rear suspension coupler
6. dry lube spray all shock adjustment threads and clutch weight pins
7.install reversible scratchers and hangers that avoid gouging rails
8. burn track threads off after first couple of rides.
9. install rear bumper with longer supports to protect rear sides of tunnel.
10 glue a thin metal plate on the inside of the side panel where the clutch bolt can hit.
11. put a tether cord on the key so it cannot be lost, attach other end to bars
12 Install our Laser Phantom Teth-Air
13. add tools for belt adjustment
14. Install TKI belt drive kit.
 
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