clutch issues
- Thread starter whitemeat
- Start date
D
You can do a search and find lots of set-up ideas. Depends a lot on the elevation you ride and how big a guy you are. You should be running either 66 or 69 g. weights, if you have a king you will have a titanium spring in the primary. The secondary should have come with a 55/53 helix and a R/W spring. By now the secondary spring is shot, the rollers are shot, and possibly the bushings. I would go though and redo everything in the secondary and check out primary for springs,cams and rollers. Rollers and a new spring in the secondary is the very least you should do.
Lighter weights in the primary. If it is stock it has 69 gram weights. I ride 8000-10000+ with 69 gram weights and don't have any issues swinging that weight with about the same mods as you. Stock pipe, v force reeds, gutted air box.
If you haven't changed the secondary spring in the last 12 months start there. While you have it apart you should really think about changing the rollers. the stock cat rollers wear out FAST!. I run rock rollers on mine, they work GREAT. That spring should be changed every year, it gets worn out pretty fast. Also change to a straight 53 or 51 if you are a bit bigger (member of the 200+ lbs club). You could also try a cat green or cutler red (they are the exact same thing). secondary spring. I ran a cutler red for a while but went back to the stock cat red/white.
You should be seeing 7400-7500 rpm on that sled on a good climb. Maybe drop off to 7300. But at 7000 you are losing some power for sure.
If you haven't changed the secondary spring in the last 12 months start there. While you have it apart you should really think about changing the rollers. the stock cat rollers wear out FAST!. I run rock rollers on mine, they work GREAT. That spring should be changed every year, it gets worn out pretty fast. Also change to a straight 53 or 51 if you are a bit bigger (member of the 200+ lbs club). You could also try a cat green or cutler red (they are the exact same thing). secondary spring. I ran a cutler red for a while but went back to the stock cat red/white.
You should be seeing 7400-7500 rpm on that sled on a good climb. Maybe drop off to 7300. But at 7000 you are losing some power for sure.
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rpm
If you increase the spring tension on the secondary clutch you will increase rpms. If you lower the grams on the cam arms or the weights on the drive clutch this too will raise the rpm. If you go from a 53 to a 51 degree helix this will also increase rpms Hope this helps
If you increase the spring tension on the secondary clutch you will increase rpms. If you lower the grams on the cam arms or the weights on the drive clutch this too will raise the rpm. If you go from a 53 to a 51 degree helix this will also increase rpms Hope this helps
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be sure to check you power valves to make sure they are operating, may be gummed up or the cables could be broken. good luck
If you are looking at your clutch like a clock you move the spring to the holes clockwise (right) for more tension.
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2 things to remember:
1 - Drive clutch controls RPM
2 - Driven clutch controls Shift
If you want to change RPM, you need to change the drive weights or drive spring rate. Now, that being said, the driven can effect RPM by dragging it down. It does not control RPM, but it does control the gear (so to speak) in which the sled is in and being in too high a gear can pull RMP down.
1 - Drive clutch controls RPM
2 - Driven clutch controls Shift
If you want to change RPM, you need to change the drive weights or drive spring rate. Now, that being said, the driven can effect RPM by dragging it down. It does not control RPM, but it does control the gear (so to speak) in which the sled is in and being in too high a gear can pull RMP down.
