It Has Begun, CR500 Build, WIP part 1
- Thread starter SEOINAGE
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S
I have a bunch of pictures to put up as the conclusion to part 1 of the build. Which is basically getting the bike converted and to running condition.
What I have left, fill the bike with fluids, attach an intake, and figure out this clutch.
I think I have an idea what could be wrong. When I remove the 7 friction plates and 6 metal plates and put the outer piece back on, the lifter engages properly. The metal plates are the old ones, but the frictions are ProX brand. I think the frictions might be too thick, holding the outer piece further away from engagement of the push rod, ball and end cap. Other possibilities are that the inner basket has a washer behind it in the wrong place, holding the whole assembly further away from engagement. Too thick of washer or an extra washer.
Personally I just think the friction plates suck and are extremely thick, combined with this. The ball is oblonged, needs replaced, the end cap, and the push rod have some wear from the ball. Not to mention push rod is grooved pretty harshly on one end, and lightly on the other. Friction plates are soaking in oil. Going to likely replace rod, ball and end cap, and or ditch the new friction plates, I could clean the old ones, assemble, and see if it still works...
edit: can't find a rod, and the ball is 50 cents no big deal, but end cap is 30 bucks.... Might just replace ball, as we are talking the wear on the rod and end cap would have to be under a half a mm of wear. Anyone know where to get a 1988 cr500 push rod?
What I have left, fill the bike with fluids, attach an intake, and figure out this clutch.
I think I have an idea what could be wrong. When I remove the 7 friction plates and 6 metal plates and put the outer piece back on, the lifter engages properly. The metal plates are the old ones, but the frictions are ProX brand. I think the frictions might be too thick, holding the outer piece further away from engagement of the push rod, ball and end cap. Other possibilities are that the inner basket has a washer behind it in the wrong place, holding the whole assembly further away from engagement. Too thick of washer or an extra washer.
Personally I just think the friction plates suck and are extremely thick, combined with this. The ball is oblonged, needs replaced, the end cap, and the push rod have some wear from the ball. Not to mention push rod is grooved pretty harshly on one end, and lightly on the other. Friction plates are soaking in oil. Going to likely replace rod, ball and end cap, and or ditch the new friction plates, I could clean the old ones, assemble, and see if it still works...
edit: can't find a rod, and the ball is 50 cents no big deal, but end cap is 30 bucks.... Might just replace ball, as we are talking the wear on the rod and end cap would have to be under a half a mm of wear. Anyone know where to get a 1988 cr500 push rod?
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Loading up a bunch of pictures of the build, part one is basically finished, and my kit and things to start part two are getting in gear
S
This is the clutch, not engaging. Ended up putting a new style cap with needle bearings on the other side, then shaving my rod down to fix it.
Radiator down tube angle got lost in process, was welded way off. Ended up taking two trips back to welder to get it right and sealed.
Changed left radiator angle as well to clear cylinder head, ended up swapping the outlets as well. to use the shorter one on right side.
Used a trail tech gauge to connect the return tubes. used a piece of the crf450 tube on left side that had the right angle, and trimmed where needed. trimmed the cr500 return tube shorter to fit.
Tube back to cylinder was from napa, did some trimming and got it to clear pipe.
Tank modification, good ol heat gun
Just enough clearance. Although I'm worried about how much dead fuel will be in there.
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Got a new style kicker, and it is resting on the pipe, doesn't rattle like I thought it would, but would like to put something between the two, it is luckily only hitting on a weld seam.
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Only thing left to make it dirt worthy is a part for the air filter, drove it around the street a bit and it sounds amazing. Will finish break in process once airbox is together.
I will also start a part two of the build now that the bike is functional and conversion is basically complete, which will focus on getting the bike ready for snow, and the modifications I want to do there.
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P
What did you do in terms of thermostat for your Steel Frame 500? Run two thermos? "Y" the two hoses into one to get it into one thermo? Or?
S
I wonder if avid would sell a carb heater without thermostat, so I wouldn't have to do the extra combining of hoses, and then I can just crack it open as much as is needed.
I have the PJ carb, and don't see it listed as an option on their site either.
I have the PJ carb, and don't see it listed as an option on their site either.
M
Kind of late now but something to keep in mind for the future, both SB and I tapped the boss on the back of the head which we use to feed the carb heater. I welded a return fitting onto the bottom of each of our left rads. Clean and simple, works great. I hope you prove us wrong but I think you'll be dead in the water with no carb heat.
M5
M5
S
Anyone make an inline valve that the more you open it for the secondary route, the more it closes the main route? Could essentially make a valve that has your feed and return built in, mount it enroute to left radiator, then you could adjust dial to the amount of heat needed for carb, and all the coolant goes through the rad still. I would assume such a valve exists already.
Edit: I think same thing could be accomplished, running off left or right side, put a t off in, valve still inline with main coolant line, and then have the return directly after with another t. Then just close the valve to get more flow to carb. Sounds simplistic and doable. Just need a method to heat carb/attach to carb. Would prefer a manufactured sleeve, but could be as simple as copper lines, and then build a neoprene carb sleeve, could have adjustable carb heat for 10 bucks. As far as I know don't need a thermostat on the cr500.
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03, so the conversion could be almost identical in process. Lots of ways to do it though.
J
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Hey not bad, think I would rather go that route and get my own piping for it, so I have complete control over it. Just need to find the right hardware.
The pwk fits the pj. It fit mine. I had to sand the carb down just a little to get it to slide on. Just the burrs really. The problem is making it fit in your frame. It's a little bigger than i thought it was gonna be. Hopefully you can make it work with yours. I wish someone would produce a round one like m5 and summitboy made for themselves!
S
Thanks for the info, I'm wondering if it won't be an issue since I have the aluminum frame, and the square I thought was just an issue with steel frames.
I got the heater collar to fit with my smartcarb which i believe is a couple mm longer than the PWK or PJ. it took me awhile, have to get the collar on at the right angle and wiggle it just the right way when installing the carb. It can be a pain but it fits.
P
It can be a tight fit. pulse intake with 3/8 reed spacer. Reed spacer actually offsets the carb for better clearance. You will have to drill and tap your own outlets so the coolant flows all the way around. Mine didn't get flow across enough area to heat the carb enough.
S
Thanks for the pics. I would think it would work for me? The drilling holes a problem with their hole placement?
My carb is angled much more towards the shock, I hope that doesn't become an issue.
EDIT:
I guess this is my last post in this thread for now, can't view the next page. Will start another thread when I start getting it snow ready.
My carb is angled much more towards the shock, I hope that doesn't become an issue.
EDIT:
I guess this is my last post in this thread for now, can't view the next page. Will start another thread when I start getting it snow ready.
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