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Evo/OSP Jackshaft install questions w/ TKI belt drive

A
Jan 16, 2008
261
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2014 M8000 w/ TKI belt drive already installed.
Before I start swapping out the jackshaft have a few questions for anyone that has done this.
I ordered the jackshaft from Evo powersports, which is really the OSP jackshaft (just didn't come with bearings like the one from OSP does). Note came with it that said to go to one stop performance web site for installation video. OSP video only shows install on the 1100 so it's not quite the same i don't think?

1.Do i need to remove the TCL to get the jackshaft and PTO bearing out? Going to replace the PTO side bearing as well. It appears the snap ring holding the bearing in can be removed without removing the TCL. This isn't like an upgrade to a 2015 shaft, so i'm thinking i don't need to.

2. Can i hammer out the PTO side bearing from the mag side using the jackshaft without damaging the TCL? this is how they show it in the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-tXv8lWSRI&feature=youtu.be

3. Note that came with the shaft says "The chaincase collar may need to be turned down to work with your belt drive. Check pulley alignment and remove material from the larger OD side of the bushing." Anyone that has installed this shaft with the TKI belt drive, did you find the need to do this so the top gear was aligned? how do you check alignment?

4.How does the chaincase collar get installed? large OD out/small OD side in i assume?

Thanks in advance.

IMG_0017.jpg IMG_0018.jpg
 

SNOADDICT

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Oct 14, 2008
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I don't have the tki belt drive but I did install a c3 drive in my sled this fall it should be very similar. You don't have to remove the tcl just heat it up with a torch and pound the bearings out of the holders after you remove the snap rings. As far as alignment of the pulleys I had to machine 150 thou off of the backside of the top pulley to get it to line up with the bottom, just use a straight edge on the outside face to check alignment. If I remember right my evo jack shaft didn't use a step collar like you show it used a stepped bearing so it was self explanatory as to which way it went in.
 
S
Mar 10, 2014
283
115
43
Colorado Springs
I'm trying to remember how I did this. I installed the same jackshaft last fall.
I had major issues getting the locking collar free on the chaincase side. In fact, I never did, except for with the use of a press after the jackshaft was already out.

I would pull the TCL, and unbolt the bearing housing from it. The bearing will literally fall out if you put a bottle torch on it for a few seconds. Same with reinstalling the bearing into the housing.

Press the TCL bearing/housing back onto the shaft. I watched OSP videos, and didn't feel like beating the crap out of the shaft/bearings like they did.

Heat the chaincase material a little before popping that bearing in, and it will go right into place. Then install the jackshaft from the clutch side into the chaincase. Should go right in. Bolt up the TCL, and it's done.

There was nothing really hard about it, except for trying to get the stupid OEM shaft out. That was the worst part.
 

summ8rmk

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Feb 16, 2008
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yakima, wa.
Small side of the spacer goes toward and inside the inner race of the bearing.
I used a clamp from the chain case to the tcl so the tcl wouldn't move while hammering on the punch on i had on the shaft to push out the bearing.

Remember the chain case is magnesium, VERY FLAMMABLE!
GS6
 
S
Mar 10, 2014
283
115
43
Colorado Springs
Small side of the spacer goes toward and inside the inner race of the bearing.
I used a clamp from the chain case to the tcl so the tcl wouldn't move while hammering on the punch on i had on the shaft to push out the bearing.

Remember the chain case is magnesium, VERY FLAMMABLE!
GS6

lolz... so are UH-60 Blackhawk helicopters (magnesium).
It's not gonna cook off if you hit it with a torch for a second. Now if you shaved it into little flakes and put a torch to it...
 
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