'05 King Cat. Okay, it's not the servo motor, or the ECU...

John · Mar 13, 2008

Fargin thing...

The battle continues. This is getting rediculous. So far I have replaced the servo motor, stator, chassis harness, ECU & voltage regulator. Still the same problem only now it will do it and the cooling off doesn't cure it anymore.

Extreme-One · Mar 13, 2008

Not saying this is it but have you checked to see if your crank is in phase? Had a friend who had a sled and it would run like a rapped ape and then all of a sudden it would run like crap. Replaced everything you've mentioned and still did it. Finally pulled the engine and put in another and everything was fine. Took the old one and put a dial indicator on the crank... guess what... the thing was just a little off phase. Put a new crank in it and everything was good. This was on a 900 Cat... not sure what year.

nermal · Mar 13, 2008

darn I thought by the time I got to the end of this thread we would be able to fix one we have been working on with the same intermittent six flash apv malfunction code. I just stumbled across it tonite and as I was reading I was thinking I wonder what it is going to be. The original advice from Arctic Cat tech was the voltage regulator makes them exhibit this malfunction when the apv system is fine. Is there any chance there were electrical shorting issues you fixed but only after the failure causing component was damaged again. We have tested and tested and replaced components on one with no success. We have fixed other issues with the sled in this quest but not the six flash nightmare

John · Mar 14, 2008

Six flash nightmare is right. This thing has me half nuts. I guess anything is possible but I fixed the two rubbed wires (that is all that was visibly wrong with it) before replacing any components.

Crank out of phase eh? Yikes! The thing only has 1800 miles on it. I'd hate to think that is what it is. I am going to run it out to the dealer today and I'll have them check that. Thanks!

Rixster · Mar 14, 2008

Good luck man !!!! The new ECU fixed mine FINALLY!!!
Before I found and fix the rubbed wires I fried, 1 stator, and 2 voltage regulators plus the ECU. I now have 2 FULL days (full tank of fuel and then some) of rideing with no issues at all.

John · Mar 14, 2008

Glad you got yours going good Rixster! I love this sled but am ready to part it out and move on...

Extreme-One · Mar 14, 2008

I'm not confiming that the crank is out of phase... just letting you know what I've seen. I had a couple friends loose up to 5 cranks in one winter all 900 cats. Most of them had less then 2000 miles. I'd try running a different ECU. Who are you taking it to? Might be time for a fresh look at this thing.

Rixster · Mar 15, 2008

John said:
Glad you got yours going good Rixster! I love this sled but am ready to part it out and move on...

Thats where I was also. I couldnt see spending 1300 on a new ECU for a sled that is now selling for around 5000. I could part it and make more that the 5000 with out a ECU. Luckily I found one on ebay and Got it for the great price of 102.50 .
I really LOVE this sled too. I have a hard time thinking about selling it and then spending another 7000 to get a new sled that I dont like as much. Over the summer I am going to a 16 wide track. Cant decide if I want an extreme or a maverick. I am leaning to the maverick, mainly because 99% of my rideing is powder. Then when spring comes around I can stick the A20 back on it for mega traction in the harder snow.

CatndHat · Mar 16, 2008

Not an out of phase crank if the problem was intermittent and now is 100%.
I would think a crank problem would be non intermittent.
Sounds as if you have a cold solder joint connection some where that has finally carboned ( any vibration motion could cause it to open wider to full open also) to a full or almost full open disconnection. If the bad connection is in a resin
sealed unit the only way is to find a tech that can ohm to mfg spec or swap
from a known working donor sled. Call Eric at the racing station in Driggs Idaho.
He has the best knowledge of cat electro quirks and is good at armchair trouble shoot. He also may have the recommended part to fix on hand as he does a lot of r&d which means his take offs should have worked prior mod upgrade.

John · Mar 27, 2008

Looks like it's fixed!

Got the Servo delete chip today, plugged it in and no limp! So it looks like the problem is outward from the servo plug to the valves somewhere. Cable, servo or valves themselves?? Don't know but it runs. I'll probably just tie the valves open for now and see if I really need the Doo valves. Thanks for all the help!

Shake-down ride will be soon.

CatndHat · Mar 27, 2008

Not exactly sure how the exhale valve works but I do know the cylinder porting is different versus before exhaust valve application. Just wondering if you keep the ports wide open in low to mid range, is there a chance it leans out in lower( or vise versa)throttle/rpm ranges . May not have an effect at all, but I do think the exhaust port window is cut a little higher for valves, and if the valve is not cycled, can it cause like a blow back effect, And if the reeds are half worn out

? As you know it fail safes closed
for limp. So did you ask the shop what happens at all throttle positions valves wired WO?
Kind of curious myself John.. I had the cables stretch and it went fail safe but I think it shuts down full throttle to basic 3/4 and very rich.
So are the reeds still in good shape?

AkHockey10 · Mar 27, 2008

I bet thats a lot of weight off your shoulders eh, John!

Rixster · Mar 27, 2008

Good work!!!

John · Mar 28, 2008

Shake-down ride last night...

Went for a little rip after work and NO LIMP! Shut it down plenty of times and it worked good. Way blubbery on the bottom so it looks like I'll be doing the STM Doo valves. Going up again tonight just to make sure.

Russ, reeds are in good shape and it for sure isn't lean on the bottom/mid. Pulls good once I get above 4500 but for crawling around in the trees with James and Fred I'm going to need to fix the blubber for sure.

CatndHat · Mar 28, 2008

Good news, other than the new valves needed.
So valves wide open the low and mid are rich.
no burn down worry there

small six · Jan 8, 2010

Hey John I got the same problem you have on an 06 900 efi.Where do you get the jumper wire to cure the 6 flashes and limp mode .I think I need one too as I am tired of trying to find the problem.I'm not spending 2 grand on an ECU either.

RedKitty · Jan 8, 2010

bdx kit

I think you actually need a chip not just a bypass the chip comes with both the stm and bdx kits I think

http://bd-xtreme.com/bdxpowervalveplus700cc-1-1.aspx

small six · Jan 9, 2010

OK , bd 's are cheaper than stm ...which would you guys recommend?????

Idcatman3 · Jan 9, 2010

The BDX kit is not a replacement valve, it is a valve elimination kit. IMO, it is not something you want to do. There is a reason practically every new 2-stroke sled has them. They make your engine run better at low-mid RPM while still being able to have higher peak HP. If you want to get rid of the servo setup, I'd go with STMs, even though they are more expensive.

small six · Jan 9, 2010

Thanks I wondered that...Yes I wouldn't want to eliminate the valves..STM"S would be the way to go.Sounds like you have to send the valves to stm on a 900.That sucks it'll take A bit before I'm riding.I wish I could grab a cheap ecu to see if that is my problem ,then this thing would be stock as I plan on selling it soon.This powervalve problem has me hating this sled already.Wonder how it would run if I got the bypass chip and drove it with valves open.You wouldn't think it would be all that bad with the big torque of the 900.???Touch up the clutching a bit,raise engagement etc.Thoughts???

'05 King Cat. Okay, it's not the servo motor, or the ECU...

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