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Swith Relocation/wiring

Been searching through a lot of threads and got most of my question answered but not all so here is goes. I am moving all the electrical switches from the handle bars to down lower somewhere. I am working on a 03 RMK I see no wiring diagram on the Polaris site. I have been looking at the 02 diagram. Now to the questions. I have 8 wires that go up the handle bars and am wondering what does what. Also on the reverse other post says that is a momentary push button. I think I saw that the gray wire is the reverse so what is it to be momentary to GROUND or POWER?

Here is what I have and here is what I found in other post. Guess yellow wire it the main power but I have 2. One is slightly larger than the other.

Small Yellow-??????
Yellow/red-(Low beam light)
Gray-(Reverse???)
Black-(Kill has to be grounded??????)
Brown-(GROUND)
Green-(HIGH beam)
Big Orange-????
Big Yellow-????

Also wondering how the low/high works on the warmers. Are there two or three circuits on the warmers that need power to all the circuits or is it just switching lower voltage wires to a higher voltage to make them hotter?
 
S
Feb 25, 2008
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Craig CO
The only real difference in an 02 to 03 diagram is the grey wire for your reverse, and the wire to your speedo that goes to your reverse light and you small cdi harness. Chassis wiring is the same. On my 03 Escape I completly gutted my wiring took all the idiot lights off and all the bs for electric start off.The wires going to my hood are only power and ground for my high beam.
I wired my temp light and rev light into LEDs on my bars. I have no brake lights,oil indecator or premium idicator. My key switch is still wired for premium and kill. I have a motor cycle kill switch for the rev.I use polaris atv bar warmers. Not saying you have to go this far but its very clean setup.
Grey= rev when this wired is grounder momentarly it goes activates rev
Yellow=power
brown=ground
black= kill (when this wire is closed with ground it kills sled)
yel/red=hi beam
green=lo beam
Blk/white to speedo=temp light
w/or to speedo=prem light
pur=low oil light
orange=brake light
pink/blk=prem switch back to cdi
blue }
blue/rd}= to your hand and thumb warmer
or/gray}
w/gray}
When I wire for a seat of bars I jump power to the hi beam so I don't need a hi/lo switch. Cut all the warmer and right side throttle wiring off.
Take the harness tape it and tuke it behind the air box. Then you can splice into the yel wire for your hand warmers. I use the polaris atv warms out of the catolog becuase they have long wires but I've heard good things about RSI. Here are a few pics of my escape and my cat. You can see the two indicators for my temp a rev on my bars. My cat has a small green indicator on the console for rev. If you are running NOS I know i sweet trick with a rocker switch so you can use your reverse button for NOS too.
rally08045.jpg

rally08059.jpg
 
Thank You all for your replies. The wiring code is exactly what I was looking for. I was reading on one of the post about using the key switch start feature to activate the reverse but I’m pretty sure that won't work as the reverse wire needs to be grounded and the key sends power to a solenoid if you have electric start. So I will have to figure something else out. Also found out that the heaters are 2 separate circuits that need power to one for “Low” and power to both of them for “High”. Pretty easy when you go to the RSI website and download the instructions. Why don’t they just put the instructions in with the warmers??? Seems to me that the universal RSI “high/low” switches are going to be the hot setup for the heaters and the headlight as well. I ordered 3 of them. I will post some pictures later. Hoping to bail on Thanksgiving dinner early to get a little work done if ya know what I mean……HA
 
S
Feb 25, 2008
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Craig CO
A head light switch needs to be a on-on switch not an on-off-on switch like the rsi. Your sled needs a constant voltage draw so a head light needs to be on all the time. You can use the rsi switch just make sure you have a light on all the time. As far as using the key switch for reverse you can do that. Just unplug the wire that goes to the starter unless you have e-start.
 
Well here is what I ended up with. Used the RSI switches for the warmers and the headlight. Tied the power and the low beam light together and hooked it to the input on the switch and wired the high beam to the high side on the switch so the low beam light will be on all the time. Hooked up the new RSI warmers and throttle warmer like normal, high and low. Also used the key switch for the reverse. Took the red power on the switch to ground and then the start wire on the other side red/white if I remember to the grey reverse wire. Bingo grounding start switch. Got to get some black loom and a master cylinder yet but it cleaned it up quite a bit.

DSCN0648 (Large).JPG DSCN0646 (Large).JPG DSCN0647 (Large).JPG
 
C
Nov 23, 2009
96
15
8
Kelowna BC Canada
Awesome job!

I am doing the same thing and love those switches. As far as your 12v acc outlet, I am thinking of doing the same thing, but am concerned about the draw on the stator. I am going to size a capacitor inline, that way always a constant voltage, and will run power for a while once the sled is off. Might be something to think about if you have not already.
 

this1ultraflyz

Member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 1, 2007
468
17
18
Saskatoon, Saskquatchland
Looks Awesome for sure some! When i get some time im all in! Just got to decide which bars to use. RSI or the Carbon Fibre Flys. Neen a pretty much flat bar for my set up as put on a Speed FX 6 to 9 riser. Great thread!
 
The handle bars I used were the fabcraft ones. Seem to be pretty nice. Also used the longer fabcraft steering post and am not real happy with that. It seems to be really flimzy. I can pull on the handle bars with very little effort and the post will bend and deflect. I am worried that it might bend or kink some how while I am riding. As far as the 12v outlett. That was on the sled when I got it, not sure if it is factory or not but anyhow I did not hook it back up. Why does there have to be a constant power draw all the time? Somebody else said that to with having the head light on all the time. What does that do?
 
S
Feb 25, 2008
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Craig CO
You need a constant power draw so the voltage regulator works right. Be it from head light,hand warmers or a resistor in place of the head light or two volt regulators wired in series. With out this draw the regulator will not regulate the right voltage and will regulate it to a small voltage this will cause your cdi and coil to mess up. Correct voltage should be any were from 11 to 13 ac volts.
 
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