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Additional iqr chassis reinforcements?

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BC SnoX

Banned
Oct 15, 2016
135
52
28
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Miami FL Sunshine and Ladies
So i got a new Welder and want to make my iqr bomber as possible. I know the open mod teams do some extra stuff and am looking for anyone's info or pictures of anything they have done to the iqr.

My ideas so far are

Reinforce front of running boards (iqr weak spot) to make my van amburg ultra boards as stiff as possible. I need them to still be stiff in 5 years.

Reinforce a arm attachment locations and bulkhead side walls to insure a arms bend and not bulkhead.

My sled has been dented in the very front of bulkhead for mod twin pipes clearance that where in it when it was team lavallee sled. My plan is to plate and weld this area as well as add some plate gussets to the shock upper mount location inside the bulkhead underneath where the steering hoop mouts to bulkhead

Im wanting to reinforce the location where the bulkhead and tunnel overlap as well. With all the bulkhead reinforcements i would think the damage would just transfer back to this location so i will beef it up as well so that the A arm is the weak point.

Does anyone have any experience with reinforceing the iqr. I want to ride this iqr for as long as possible. I absolutely love it for jumping and jibing. So i want to make the chassis indestructible so i can just beat on it day after day and year after year until im ready for a 155 track old mans sled. My sled gets tossed alot in bails trying whips and sometimes ends up in trees. I want it to just take hits and bend a arms. I I changed the rev 440 nuns out on a monthly basis. I used bolts instead of rivets on the nun which made it quiker but still a overnight job. I want this sled to just bend A arms and shocks so i can just go back to trailer and put new ones on in 20 mins. This the exact reason why i did not buy a freeride 137 even though it a nice looking sled. The freeride is not tough like i need. I need indestructible tough that can handle the next 10 years of abuse i will be throwing at it in the mountains. The freeride is definitely tough and im not saying im to good for a freeride, im saying im too bad. I bail alot and my sled doesn't always end up in favorable locations. And i can't afford a new sled every year and honestly cant find anything else that will work for me on a long term basis like the iqr. The new cat zr sx is cool but it is a big bulky machine and the iqr seems more flickable for wind lip jibbing. Please lus the iqr chassis is very workable and easly reinforced.

So my plan is to strip it down when i do the 800 mono conversion and do the fab work then. I have a bunch of aluminum from when i put a 136 van amburg set up on it so i can use that for plates i need to make. When it is all done and welded up to my liking i will send it out for powder coating black. I want to make it tough enough that i should never have to touch it with a welder again so a nice powder coat will be a nice final touch

Any input on iqr reinforcements and weak points would be helpful. Also will a 136 with 8in wheels fit under a new 128 tunnel. Im thinking of starting fresh with a brand new 2016 chassis from race department. For jibbing i want as short of a tunnel as possible, but need the track to fit inside tunnel when suspension all the way compresssed. I saw a zr sx with a 137 track and it fit perfectly in there, like perfect perfect. Im looking for that with my sled. I want it ro be as short as possible but working correctly. New chassis is $1500 bucks so i figured it could be worth it to start with new chassis. Selling my current set up will cover a new tunnel. And if i can mod the stock running boards myself on the new chassis and add a support to the front of the boards and my other bomber reinforcements i would be supper pumped.

Does a 136 track with 8in wheels fit under the new 128 chassis. I need it to fit into the tunnel with suspension fully compresed. The tighter the fit the better, i just need it to have a tiny bit of clearance, i want shortest tunnel possible that still works with 136 and 8in wheels. im not concerned about cooling as i ride in the mountains
 
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B

BC SnoX

Banned
Oct 15, 2016
135
52
28
38
Miami FL Sunshine and Ladies
Did you buy this one? I consider buying that one but opted to spend a little more and get a basically new 2012 with fox floats from levi that was foam pit sled that was ridden once. They did the front bulkhead twin pipe notch right on the mods, but on mine which was a foam pit practice sled they just heated that spot and then mashed it down. Its fine but im kind of picky and it bothers me so i either want to weld and plate that area since i use single pipe and have plenty of clearance or get fresh 2016 128 chassis. I do not want to do an extension though. Does anyone know if a 136 with 8in wheels and 2in paddle will fit under stock 128? Im really leaning towards starting fresh cause my chassis now is sweet to sell if someone doesn't care about there homemade clearance mod. If levi was willing to ride it im sure its fine for average guy. If i can sell my current set up i can basically do the switch for free.

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B

BC SnoX

Banned
Oct 15, 2016
135
52
28
38
Miami FL Sunshine and Ladies
This was my sled before the mods. Will get pics of it after when its done. Van amburg took 2 months to build my tunnel extension. Kind of a long time to wait but im hoping it turns out really nice.

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B

BC SnoX

Banned
Oct 15, 2016
135
52
28
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Miami FL Sunshine and Ladies
Why you give my bad post thingy majig?

I just got off phone with vohk. My van amburg stuff came in and my HD ultra boards look tough.
They did a boondock bumper kit with ultra runners and U cooler mod
They made my runners with thicker tubing and added a front support hoop like the B&M boards
They also kept the steel plate inside the tunnel at the rear top idler

They forgot to powder coat it black but that works out ok cause i plan to powder coat entire chassis black after i reinforce it and now i can easily weld without grinding or sanding.
 

omernikski

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2003
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Minocqua, WI/ Foxboro, WI
I didn't mean to. Doing this on my phone and I got fat fingers. I'll have Christopher fix that.

Sounds like it's going to be a good looking build. Can never go wrong with black
 
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B

BC SnoX

Banned
Oct 15, 2016
135
52
28
38
Miami FL Sunshine and Ladies
Im so pumped that it came out nice. It has red rails now so the black chassis next summer will be nice. Once it is a 800 and reinforced to my liking I think Im gona be happy on this sled for awhile. I want to put welds/beads and plates in the right places. However i do not want to weld Areas areas that need to flex. I will be powder coating and do not want to be looking at a bunch of cracked welds in a year that i put in places that need to flex a bit. I know the mod teams get a reinforcement spec sheet for there sleds from race department. Pictures of your mod would be a huge help when you get home. Thank you for helping me out.

The only thing i can think of adding that is realistic is side of bulkhead plate reinforcements behind the can and clutches and also reinforcing front of bulkhead under the pipe and up to steering hoop and basically double wall and box the entire front except where there are already steel plates in very front and underneath. Im not sure what to do with the A arm mount points. I think my runners are gona be tough as is. And i don't want to weld the tunnel/bulkhead overlaps but would rivet plates in that area if i can think of good spot. Also want to think about skid bolt locations and extra rivet plates. I dont care about the little extra weight i just want to build a indestructible sled that just rips off A arms but always stays straight and ready for a new front suspension. Id also like to beef up the bumper and mount location for bumper so it can take a tree to the nose and not destroy my pipes and motor mounts.
 
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B

BC SnoX

Banned
Oct 15, 2016
135
52
28
38
Miami FL Sunshine and Ladies
They wouldn't do a arms. The mod teams are trying to reduce flex and get through one season. Where im trying to make it bomber and dont care about weight. But there reinforcements are a good start. Im sure someone out there has done or thought of this before but i can't find any info. Think im just gona beaf up all existing reinforcements as to not lock up an area that needs flex. But pictures of how they made there reinforcements on the mod sleds will help me apply that logic to other areas.
 

omernikski

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2003
651
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Minocqua, WI/ Foxboro, WI
Looks like the gussets are the same on both sides. Single welds look they had a few more passes on them and the right side shock tower had a gusset on it. That's all I can see that's done to it

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B

BC SnoX

Banned
Oct 15, 2016
135
52
28
38
Miami FL Sunshine and Ladies
Van Amburg stuff looks cool but it needs some welding to get it to where i want it. They also did not do the U cooler mod i ordered. The front of thr running board does not connect into the footwells, they capped it and vohk just put it together without drilling it and connecting the outet rail to footwell. I will weld some sort of plate in place to support the front of boards
 
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B

BC SnoX

Banned
Oct 15, 2016
135
52
28
38
Miami FL Sunshine and Ladies
So i decided to let a professional do the welding. I just dropped my sled off at JG Welding to be reinforced. They are gona make my running boards as tough as humanly possible. They are also gona reinforce the front of my bulkhead where it was dented down to clear the mod twin pipes.
The bulkhead side walls and other reinforcements will come later when i pull the motor to do the 800 mono. Im going to copy the gussets and extra beads that team lavallee did to your mod sled.

I think getting my boards stiff enough is the main goal here. The other stuff is all way less important. My running boards always end up bowwed or cracked and i am excited to finally have a burly sled. You should see how thick van amburg made my tunnel. Its looks tough as all hell. And they kept the rear steel plate inside the tunnel for the rear skid bolt which is awsome. Once this sled is reinforced to my liking Im gona put her to the test. If she can get through the season in one peice im gona spend the money and make it a 800. I really dont see how I could make a tougher jump/jib sled.
 
B

BC SnoX

Banned
Oct 15, 2016
135
52
28
38
Miami FL Sunshine and Ladies
This what I got so far

I added some weld to runners
Also took steel plate off bottom of my old runners and put it by skid bolt. The washer and bolt will fit inside the opening so there plenty of thread on skid bolt. I just want it to keep the Tunnel from bending in that spot. Im also using bigger washers on skid bolts to give bolt head more surface area so it is less prone to bending Tunnel.

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B

BC SnoX

Banned
Oct 15, 2016
135
52
28
38
Miami FL Sunshine and Ladies
This where im at
I added a rivet to my new plate
I also added more rivets to inner steel plate
I used bigger washers on my skid bolts
Had some Welding done to reinforce runners
I also added rivets to my rear skid bolt steel plates

I was really nervous about doing solid rivets but l realized i have done them before in my dads shop, actually thousands of them I just didnt know what they were called back then, it was always just a press and metal pin to me. I bought a air hammer and used it on one and then quickly realized the palm nailer was better.
I also jetted it, the shop just threw 300 mains in it but i made changes. I did 280 mains, 40 pilots, air screws 1.25 turns out, clip on position 0.5 I was gona do position one on clip but when I pulled the top they were already on .5 so I just left them at .5 since I was considering doing that anyway. It was cool how easy the sled was to jet. The airbox just pops right out and boom you working. I didn't even pull the secondary.

I just got suspension back from being rebuilt, I left Levi's secret X games valving in them but softened them up a few clicks. I like slow rebound In the back so I set them up how I like them and now im almost ready to roll.

I'm hoping my base line jetting will be good for high altitude, I plan to just swap out mains to fine tune from here on out. When I do 800 monoblock I will just go back to 300ish main jets. I also plan on doing some reinforceing to the bulkhead when I pull the motor to do the 800

It is very rewarding to do the work yourself. This the first time since living away from home that I have had a shop. I had a shed at my old place but it was packed with tools. My dad and I made sure I had every tool possible at one point for when I did have a shop. It was amazing, to finally be able to work on machine in a heated shop. No more changing Nuns and A arms in the cold. My shop is freaking awesome and I cant wait to do my 800 monoblock conversion and Welding on Bulkhead. I was actually a decent welder as well from back when I worked with my dad back east, but have not had any practice in last 10 years. I'm hoping to do some cool stuff to this sled. I plan to keep this sled, im gona ride it into the ground and then turn it into lawn art. Now that I have a permanent residence, id like to keep all my old sleds. I never did like handing over my old bikes and sleds. I remember selling my 04 yzf250 (my favorite bike ever) to this idiot who almost destroyed it and his truck loading it. I have alot of good memories on that bike and I let some tool bag drive away with it for $1800 bucks and god knows were it is today. Id pay 18,000 to have that bike back today. I'll never make that mistake again. I've never put this much effort and love into a sled. My dad and I built my bikes together back when, but I haven't been able to really dig into a sled yet. I swapped a bunch of Nuns on my revs but that as extensive as it got. It was unpleasant swapping Nuns in the cold so I never cared about it or took pride in it. It was always just something to get through. This first sled I actually enjoyed building. It is ugly but in my eyes it is perfect.

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