track clearance issues for IQ RAW

Midge907 · Nov 16, 2009

polaris dude said:
wow, great info here!

So to a person who was not in the market for a new track, but wants to get the most performance out of his 2.4 inch lug track, he should trim them perhaps?

NOOOOOOOOO! Do not trim your track, it will be better off the way it is. If you think it trenches bad now, just imagine how it would trench if you cut it down by any amount. I personally have not changed out my track yet, I'm still waiting on my cylinders to put my motor back together. I'd rather have it back together before tearing into anything else.

volcano buster · Nov 17, 2009

A couple years back, boat wax (marine use) was the hot ticket for keeping snow from sticking. I have dropped the skids out of several of my sleds for various reasons and use that time to wax the gee whiz out of the inside of the tunnel. Especially the nooks, crannies, crevices and around the fasteners where snow will stick and turn to ice. I also do several coats on the large flat top and sides of the tunnel to help the snow/air mix to travel smoothly. Whether it lasts for a full season or not is questionable, but I do know that I don't get the snow build up in the tunnel like I used to. After living in Idaho and plowing snow, we used to use PAM or other non-stick cooking sprays on our plows and shovels to keep snow from sticking and freezing. If a person was to swap out the nozzle and tube from a WD-40 can and put it on the cooking spray can, I believe you could shoot up through the windows, around the track, and in front of the track to lube it up before a good snow ride. This probably won't do justice to a good track/tunnel clearance, but for those of us that aren't swapping a track/drivers out or doing a D&R, it may help with little effort before each ride. Unload the sled out of the trailer, tip it up on it side, spray down the tunnel, set back up right and get ready to ride.

Personally I like the idea of UHMW in the tunnel, but am leary of any extra parts that close to such a large moving mass where you can injest rocks, ice chunks, and even sticks to break it loose.

akrevrider · Nov 17, 2009

Personally I like the idea of UHMW in the tunnel, but am leary of any extra parts that close to such a large moving mass where you can injest rocks, ice chunks, and even sticks to break it loose.[/QUOTE]

Here is a reply that I recieved from Mountainhorse on the same subject:

"Quote: right now I don't have too much clearance which could cause build up on the bulkhead

Simple solution that I cant figure out why Polaris doesnt do...

Get a piece of 15.25" wide , 1/16 thick UHMW plastic that is long enough to
wrap inside the tunnel from where the coolers end in the front and wrap to
where it exits the tunnel...

Rivet that piece of plastic to the inside to the tunnel... There will be NO
SNOW or ICE build up in that area PERIOD!!

The only problem is that you have to pull the skid, track and driveshaft to install it...

Cost for plastic and rivets.... cheap..."

I've done the marine wax on the tunnel with good results and plan to install the UHMW plastic in the tunnel to help with the ice build up.

akrevrider

Midge907 · Nov 17, 2009

akrevrider said:
Get a piece of 15.25" wide , 1/16 thick UHMW plastic that is long enough to
wrap inside the tunnel from where the coolers end in the front and wrap to
where it exits the tunnel...

Rivet that piece of plastic to the inside to the tunnel... There will be NO
SNOW or ICE build up in that area PERIOD!!

akrevrider

Sounds like an interesting Idea, I may do the same once I get off my butt and to the change out next weekend. Plastic would only have to be thick enough to stay ridged.

MORSNO · Nov 18, 2009

Midge907 said:
Sounds like an interesting Idea, I may do the same once I get off my butt and to the change out next weekend. Plastic would only have to be thick enough to stay ridged.

Midge907, You could use a flexible cutting board from the housewares section of a dept store. They are rigid enough to stay put with rivets and can be bent to the shape of the tunnel...just a thought.

akrevrider · Nov 18, 2009

MORSNO said:
Midge907, You could use a flexible cutting board from the housewares section of a dept store. They are rigid enough to stay put with rivets and can be bent to the shape of the tunnel...just a thought.

I located the material in the exact demensions and it is sold by the lenear foot. Call or email - http://www.cacalaska.com/ It can be mailed to you.

Let us know how your mods go.

akrevrider

MORSNO · Nov 18, 2009

akrevrider said:
I located the material in the exact demensions and it is sold by the lenear foot. Call or email - http://www.cacalaska.com/ It can be mailed to you.

Let us know how your mods go.

akrevrider

Excellent source...lots of good stuff

TREE MAGNET · Nov 18, 2009

Midge907 said:
NOOOOOOOOO! Do not trim your track, it will be better off the way it is. If you think it trenches bad now, just imagine how it would trench if you cut it down by any amount. I personally have not changed out my track yet, I'm still waiting on my cylinders to put my motor back together. I'd rather have it back together before tearing into anything else.

I disagree search for f-bombs track mod. The 5.1 track works way better trimmed. Read the first part of this post & you will also rear about it. IMO trim your 5.1!!!!!!!!

hilinerider · Oct 18, 2010

trimed and screw my 5.1, love it

PowderMiner · Nov 1, 2010

SO if a guy got the 7 tooth drivers to run the CE 2.86 track...

1. would their be a higer chance of ratcheting?
2. would their be a higer chance of stabbing? stab kit?
3. can these parts come off and go on a 2012 Pro RMK?
4. also would their be an advantage to go to strait rails (non turbo)?

Thanks
PM

Clarke673 · Nov 1, 2010

i will be installing the fastrax drop and roll on my 09 dragon (single ply 155 track). My track was rubbing on the tunnle all the time and even with a custom rear skid, the sled didn't climb much better than anything else.

So my modifications this year are a fully cut and screwed track i purchased from Keith Curtis and the drop and roll.I think the drop and roll has many benefits like

1. Taking a lot of slack out of the chain
2. better deep snow performance
3. More track on the ground
4. Better attack angle
5. No rubbing on the tunnel/coolers.
Also, with the track rubbing on the coolers, they can't be working to their optimal cooling capacity.

But i am worried about the shaft being to low and bending the shaft. I guess we will find out :face-icon-small-con

edit-also, wouldn't it be more desirable to do a drop and roll and gear the sled than to go to a 7 tooth driver? I would think the biggest driver you could run (and still have enough room for the track) would be best as you would have an easier time spinning the track and not have to worry about it ratcheting as much?

mountainhorse · Nov 1, 2010

Clarke...

I'm not trying to give you a hard time here and I hope that you look at this as trying to be helpful.

The D&R does nothing for the chain slack... the chaincase is moved as a unit... the distance from the jackshaft to the drive shaft is not altered.

Track rubbing on the coolers IS bad... but it has no effect on the cooling abilities unless is is constant (most are very intermittent) and the friction of the rubbing is making heat... like with a 3" tall paddle on a stock sled.

More track on the ground... ????

Better deep snow performance has a lot to do with suspension setup.... not simply doing the D&R.

A D&R has many benefits though... the main one giving more clearance for the track and cutting down on parasitic drag from "pumping" heavy snow thru a smaller opening of the standard setup.

There are a couple of good threads on the forums here about D&R on this chassis with photos... they may help out with the big picture.

mountainhorse · Nov 1, 2010

PowderMiner said:
1. would their be a higer chance of ratcheting?
2. would their be a higer chance of stabbing? stab kit?
3. can these parts come off and go on a 2012 Pro RMK?
4. also would their be an advantage to go to strait rails (non turbo)?

Thanks
PM

1)The D&R, if installed correctly and the suspension is done right will not affect the ratcheting.

2) No MORE or LES affect on stabbing... unless you've installed it improperly.

3) No... the 2011 chassis is completly different and I believe that the 2012 will be the same .

4) Straight rails have plus and minus'... they keep the front end planted slightly better, but give up a little maneuverability on hardpack or spring conditions.

HUNDO · Nov 1, 2010

mountainhorse said:
1)The D&R, if installed correctly and the suspension is done right will not affect the ratcheting.

2) No MORE or LES affect on stabbing... unless you've installed it improperly.

3) No... the 2011 chassis is completly different and I believe that the 2012 will be the same .

4) Straight rails have plus and minus'... they keep the front end planted slightly better, but give up a little maneuverability on hardpack or spring conditions.

I think he was wondering about the 7 tooth drivers vs the 8 tooths. I've been contemplating the 7's also but don't want to rob hp to get more clearance...seems like you'd be giving up at least what you gained, maybe more. Thoughts?

mountainhorse · Nov 1, 2010

DUH...:redface:

I'll try this again...

PowderMiner said:
1. would their be a higer chance of ratcheting?
2. would their be a higer chance of stabbing? stab kit?
3. can these parts come off and go on a 2012 Pro RMK?
4. also would their be an advantage to go to strait rails (non turbo)?

Thanks
PM

1) No... actually less chance of ratcheting...but you should still run stock or very similar track tension for good track performance.
These new drivers rarely have the teeth in contact with the track/windows... plus they seat more deeply in the involute slot with more engagement of the involute nub at the bottom of the slot than previous combo drivers.

2) I recommend an anti stab kit... if just to improve rolling resistance over stock.

3) I'm looking into the shaft thing... but I believe it is diferent.

4) Straight rails have plus and minus'... they keep the front end planted slightly better, but give up a little maneuverability on hardpack or spring conditions.

mountainhorse · Nov 1, 2010

The old, stiff, multi ply tracks had more rolling resistance... I really did not notice any loss in HP on my last sled with 7 tooth...My new project has the PC track with 7 tooth... no apparent problems and I do not anticipate any.

Seabass152 · Nov 1, 2010

I know Mountainhorse doesn't expect any issues with his 7 tooth 3.0 set up, but I guess until someone mounts up a 2.5 track with a 7 tooth 2.86, we won't know if any of the concerns mentioned are valid. I looked and measure the best I could to see if the slightly smaller 2.86 was going to cause any clearance problems, mostly at the top of the belting/nubs as it passes the forward skid mount, but it is tight. Seems like it may lay in the rub loops that are on the top of the mount.
No doubt you will need a anti-stab kit but if that is the only fix that is needed then I would love to go this route instead of using a drop.

mountainhorse · Nov 1, 2010

Seabass... good points ...My concern with smaller drivers or a D&R is the same...bringing the inside of the track (top) closer to the front suspension swing arm upper cross bar.

In my 3" 7tooth setup...I have adequate clearance on the rub bars... A 7 tooth 2.86 pitch driver brings the track a bit over 1/8" (.156) closer to the cross bar than the same driver in a 7 tooth 3" pitch. (It also gives you about 1/8" more clearance too)

diamonddave · Nov 1, 2010

Something that was not available when this thread first started last season is the fact that AVID can now make a set of custom 8 tooth "Mountainhorse" drivers to run the Powerclaw track on the IQ shaft. I just recieved mine and am looking forward to installing the PC track, drivers, anti-stab, and the Fastrax D&R.

The one thing I'm a little unclear about at this point is the spacing/location of the new design drivers on the driveshaft. I believe Jkinzer is the only person (that I know of) that's running this kind of set-up. I'm feeling a little on an island right now however, I haven't started the project and maybe it will fall into place.

Chris Kasel at Carls doesn't like running Anti-ratchet drivers and was having special Powerclaw specific drivers being made but the company that was making them is no longer making them. This was as of a couple weeks ago. He was hoping to have another source for them soon.

Clarke673 · Nov 1, 2010

mountainhorse said:
Clarke...

I'm not trying to give you a hard time here and I hope that you look at this as trying to be helpful.

The D&R does nothing for the chain slack... the chain case is moved as a unit... the distance from the jackshaft to the drive shaft is not altered.

Track rubbing on the coolers IS bad... but it has no effect on the cooling abilities unless is is constant (most are very intermittent) and the friction of the rubbing is making heat... like with a 3" tall paddle on a stock sled.

More track on the ground... ????

Better deep snow performance has a lot to do with suspension setup.... not simply doing the D&R.

A D&R has many benefits though... the main one giving more clearance for the track and cutting down on parasitic drag from "pumping" heavy snow thru a smaller opening of the standard setup.

There are a couple of good threads on the forums here about D&R on this chassis with photos... they may help out with the big picture.

Sorry i did not explain everything thoroughly. When i said i could take slack out of the chain i was thinking in my head about gearing it down and forgot that gearing it down is not a part of the D&R, i am simply doing that while i am doing the D&R.

If the drive shaft is closer to the ground, this decreasing the attack angle of the track, does it not put more of the track in contact with the snow? I was under the impression that the less attack angle you have, the better in deep snow situations. I don't believe i will have a problem with "parasitic drag" because i have a cut down track. The main reason i am doing the D&R is so that i don't have to worry about destroying my coolers with the screws in my track and to improve my attack angle.

As always thanks for all the info mh. You have a way of seeing the forest through the trees....

track clearance issues for IQ RAW

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