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Opinions Please

Leftys

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You are on the right track. I had a 98' 700. SLP head, SLP Y pipe and pipe, MBRP can, Boyessen Rad Valves and the machine ran awesome. very reliable and stomped most of the other sleds I was riding with. Brings back a lot of good memories.
 

Leftys

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Porting and Polishing is a whole other thing. A mild port job by someone who knows what they are doing and has tried and trued there port timing would be beneficial. If port timing is radically changed it will make the engine very temperamental, not reliable. Polishing of the exhaust port and boost ports is a good thing even on a stock ported engine. Polishing of the intake and transfer ports I do not recommend (my opinion). By polishing those ports the atomized air/fuel charge will try to come out of its atomized state as it passes by and stick to the polished ports as droplets.
 

WyoUltra

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Did you have to do much tuning to the carbs as you rode it? Somedays it'll be -15*, other days it will be 30*, I know right now it doesn't seem to affect it much currently, as far as ridability.

Whereas on my triple, if it gets anywhere close to 30* I can count on having to change the jets. I'd prefer to just have the sled be pull and go for the whole day, without having to fiddle with carbs.
 

WyoUltra

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Porting and Polishing is a whole other thing. A mild port job by someone who knows what they are doing and has tried and trued there port timing would be beneficial. If port timing is radically changed it will make the engine very temperamental, not reliable. Polishing of the exhaust port and boost ports is a good thing even on a stock ported engine. Polishing of the intake and transfer ports I do not recommend (my opinion). By polishing those ports the atomized air/fuel charge will try to come out of its atomized state as it passes by and stick to the polished ports as droplets.

From what I've read, I've heard the same things about the intake ports, and having someone who know's what they're doing, do it. In regards to the exhaust ports, would you send it out to have a shop do it, or DIY?
 

Leftys

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I did not have to mess with jetting. I had it dialed for the area I live in. Depending on temp and air density I would at times have to blip the enrichener periodically going up the trail to get to elevation. I could tell if I needed to do that by the sound of the engine. I did not run the Mikuni flat slide carbs. I ran the Kehins. For my area I ran a 38 Pilots, 158 Mains, 6.0 Slides. I do not recall what needle. I also gutted the air box. I consider our area kind of like the Bermuda Triangle of jetting. Crazy. If I were to go by Polaris recommended setup for temp and elevation my sled would not run (pig rich). By their chart with my setup, my sled should have burnt down.
 

Leftys

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Get yourself a Dremmel Tool or something comparable with a polishing attachment and do it. Easy to do, just a little time consuming.
 

WyoUltra

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I figured as much, I know as long as you take your time, and just use a dremmel tool, you can do some pretty simple polishing and it can work out pretty good.
 
M

mike_s

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Jan 19, 2012
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Ashton, Idaho
I will second the statement of leaving the intake and transfer ports in an "as cast" finish. The slightly textured surface induces some turbulence which helps keep fuel suspended in the intake charge. I would go for polishing the exhaust ports as well, mirror finish is not nessesary, though wont hurt either. Only other thing i might think about doing is cleaning up the area of the transfer ports along the divider, making it a nice consistent radiused (not knifed edged) leading edge (think airplane wing) and clean up any burrs where it meets the port edge. You can also do some work to the cylinder tangs that protrude into the case, radius them into the piston skirt surface to provide a smooth flow surface into the transfer ports. All of this i always did with an air powered die grinder, which is really no different than a dremel tool.
 

WyoUltra

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Well I woke up this morning and had a couple thoughts come to me, if I purchased a sled (<$2000) and searched around for an 800, would it be more beneficial because I could get more power out of it? So off I went to KSL, and there's quite a few Edge 800's on there within that price range, as well as a couple Mountain cat 800's and one 900... Now I'm not a cat guy, but I do know that the 900's, although pigs, make great power. Their 800 has always been a more reliable motor, and doesn't shell out cranks like most Polaris 800's of their age. Do you guys think it would be more benefical to go this route? I mean i could get the reverse (polaris edge motor), or I could go for the cat's and have EFI, with a strong reliable motor, any thoughts?

Can anybody chime in as to the power and weight difference between cat's 800 and 900?
 

Idcatman3

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You can find King Cats for $1500-$2000, depending on condition, and I think that's a much better sled than an Edge 800.

Then, if you still want to go the IQ route, build that chassis, and swap the Cat 900 into it. My dad and I, as well as Mike_s above, are putting Cat 900 based engines in Dragons for the coming season. There's not a lot too it actually.

Also, there is no weight difference between the Cat 800 and 900 of that era. They are the same engine, just different size hole. The 900 makes ~10 more hp, and responds better to modifications such as big bore kits. The transfer ports are larger on the 900.
 
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WyoUltra

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Would the Cat 900 fit in the IQR? I don't know how difficult that one would be to fit in the chassis. Sure some people have but +1000cc triples in them, but I'm looking for more of a swap, minimal fabrication.
 

Idcatman3

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I'm sure it would fit, I don't know how much fabrication would be involved. I wouldn't think it would be all that bad, but not bolt in.

Edit: Found some pictures of one. As far as the Fabcraft one goes, our engine already sits a lot lower than that one does. With the IQR, I think you could do even better. I don't see how the jackshaft would be any worse than the stock setup, since the 900 cat engine is taller than the stock one.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=219353
 
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LoudHandle

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You will still have to replace the Stator. The stator for Perc will have two pulse or trigger coils. One triggers forward operation and one triggers reverse operation.

I believe this statement is wrong for at least the 2003-2006 600 cc PERC sleds. They use the same stator a 19 degree flywheel instead of the 14 degree and all the magic happens in the CDI;as the stator is the same single trigger coil stator as the pre-PERC sleds. At least for the 600's; the 700's and 800's may indeed use two. I know the newer CFI sleds run two trigger coils for Reverse magic.



As for your original question; With complete IQR's now selling for $2000 and up what is stopping you from just updating to a complete newer sled? Part the Gen II out, and reuse what you want, But know that part of what makes the PRO better than the IQ's and earlier chassis is the subtle changes over the years. So if you start bolting in 90's parts it will ride like a 90's sled. If you want to take advantage of the newer technology you need to incorporate those evolutionary steps in your build. You can get the newer stuff without spending a fortune if you watch E-bay, CL, SW, BCR, and other places for good value deals. Good luck with whatever you decide!
 

WyoUltra

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Nov 26, 2007
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Casper, WY
I believe this statement is wrong for at least the 2003-2006 600 cc PERC sleds. They use the same stator a 19 degree flywheel instead of the 14 degree and all the magic happens in the CDI;as the stator is the same single trigger coil stator as the pre-PERC sleds. At least for the 600's; the 700's and 800's may indeed use two. I know the newer CFI sleds run two trigger coils for Reverse magic.



As for your original question; With complete IQR's now selling for $2000 and up what is stopping you from just updating to a complete newer sled? Part the Gen II out, and reuse what you want, But know that part of what makes the PRO better than the IQ's and earlier chassis is the subtle changes over the years. So if you start bolting in 90's parts it will ride like a 90's sled. If you want to take advantage of the newer technology you need to incorporate those evolutionary steps in your build. You can get the newer stuff without spending a fortune if you watch E-bay, CL, SW, BCR, and other places for good value deals. Good luck with whatever you decide!

I'm aware that the IQR won't come close to the Pro chassis in terms of handling. However, I have been paying attention to the differences in the skid geometry that the pro has vs the IQ Raw chassis, as well as the narrower front end. The only thing I really won't be able to do is mount the engine in the IQR lower then it's existing place. I'm sure the Pro has different engine mounting when you compare the two. But there's also a part that will enable you to run the 36"(?) pro front end. So theoretically I could come up with a fairly capable chassis and sled. I'm sure it won't come close to a pro, but I have always liked the way these things look, and I like the idea of having a sweet mod sled.

I have seen some of these IQR's for $2000 to $3000 which really isn't bad when I'm sure i'm looking at spending more then that to do the swap. However there are things/mods about the ones that I've seen that I would do differently.
 
M

mike_s

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Jan 19, 2012
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Ashton, Idaho
The steering post on the iqr will be one big determining factor in the way the sled feels, being a more horizontal post. I am spending a considerable amount of time on my IQ build to have a post that is vertical in both planes. The iqr week be far simpler in terms of steering, but you will have to decide if the tradeoff is worth it.

Sent From God Knows Where...
 

LoudHandle

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I'm aware that the IQR won't come close to the Pro chassis in terms of handling. However, I have been paying attention to the differences in the skid geometry that the pro has vs the IQ Raw chassis, as well as the narrower front end. The only thing I really won't be able to do is mount the engine in the IQR lower then it's existing place. I'm sure the Pro has different engine mounting when you compare the two. But there's also a part that will enable you to run the 36"(?) pro front end. So theoretically I could come up with a fairly capable chassis and sled. I'm sure it won't come close to a pro, but I have always liked the way these things look, and I like the idea of having a sweet mod sled.

I have seen some of these IQR's for $2000 to $3000 which really isn't bad when I'm sure i'm looking at spending more then that to do the swap. However there are things/mods about the ones that I've seen that I would do differently.

Yes, the 36" fronts do fit on the IQR, just need the IQ bushings and pivots for the arms.

Mike had not considered a vertical post on my IQR builds but you bring a valid point and worth the work. I will be giving that more thought. Thanks!
 
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