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Beginner questions

T
Feb 20, 2019
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As they say - there are no stupid questions, just stupid answers :)

Beginner questions (could not find):
- why snowbike tracks are narrow 12.5in? Most mountain sleds are 15in...
- why 137in max? (Ok, there is Yeti Carbon 144, but $gold$) :)

Thanks!
 

2smokin

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a 15 wide track would be harder too lean over and it would also stick out width wise past the pegs and be easier to catch on things. As far as length goes, Longer you are the less you can flick it around like a bike and ski pressure gets annoying. I think longer will be easier handle on custom built bikes when they get the track up under your feet, getting the center of gravity better and overall length down.
 

Sheetmetalfab

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……..
a 15 wide track would be harder too lean over and it would also stick out width wise past the pegs and be easier to catch on things. As far as length goes, Longer you are the less you can flick it around like a bike and ski pressure gets annoying. I think longer will be easier handle on custom built bikes when they get the track up under your feet, getting the center of gravity better and overall length down.

What he said.

Custom build bikes in the tedesled style have very little ski pressure.

Handles great with a 156x12.25x3.2.

9e37f89ac1fff36e828f164791c60197.jpg
 

CATSLEDMAN1

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bin there dun that

when I built a 144 X 12.5 track snobike with a rock hard lugs it was great on powder days, when the snow got hard in the spring the push and lack of steering was very frustrating. On spring days with hard snow beginning to turn to slush on the surface steering had gone away.


NOW, better skis have come my way, ski technology has been improving faster than track technology, maybe now, might try another long tack monster.
 

Sheetmetalfab

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Why not 174? :))

I already a pro rmk skid with 155 rails just sitting in the shed.

Also overall length is right at 11’ 3” so I think it’s plenty long.

Pretty much zero steering push with a 4cylinder motor (as long as you let off a touch)

On the throttle it picks the ski 6-12” and you just steer by leaning.
 

2smokin

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I already a pro rmk skid with 155 rails just sitting in the shed.

Also overall length is right at 11’ 3” so I think it’s plenty long.

Pretty much zero steering push with a 4cylinder motor (as long as you let off a touch)

On the throttle it picks the ski 6-12” and you just steer by leaning.

You should post some videos of your beast! also how do you like the solid/pivoting skid design? Love the simplicity.
 

Sheetmetalfab

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You should post some videos of your beast! also how do you like the solid/pivoting skid design? Love the simplicity.

I’d love to get some video of it.

Work keeps getting in the way.

We do have awesome snow currently though.

The rear suspension definitely is the most like a dirt bike i’ve ridden.
Squats the rear slightly under power and transfers weight in a very predictable fashion.

The single shock in the skid controls the approach angle. (And we all know how well the pro rmk FTS gets on top of the snow) this effect does not appear to have been diminished.
 

Sheetmetalfab

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What would you prefer:
- husaberg 570 (FI, 115kg, 60 rwhp) with standard 137x2.6in, or
- GSXR 1000 (160kg, 160hp) with custom 144 or 156 x 3.2in track?

After owning and riding a variety of bikes I would agree with 2smokin.

The Husaburg 570 is a low revving heavy flywheel turd.

Do you want to ride a lot of deep snow?

Best readily available setup would be a 16+ husky/ktm 450 with a 490 big bore through raze Motorsports. 137 cmx, 16-17 ts 137, 137 SnowTech MX, or ts aro 137. Price is astronomical for this setup.

The brc 500 is another option with no actual on snow reviews. (More expensive)

If you are game to build a bike/kit setup.

A inline 4 600 class sportbike isn’t too hard to setup with a 16+ ts kit. (Lots of fiddling but only steel welding capability required)
This will blow any brc500 or 490-570 out of the water in actual deep powder.

The latest one I have is the best of all those worlds.

50# lighter than a gixxer 1000 in street form. (Most of that rotating mass)

Priorities in manual tranny engine selection.
1: longest rev range with good power / torque.
2: lightest rotating mass
3: overall weight
4: ease of snow proofing intake.
5: close ratio transmission (The ninja 636 has been the best for all categories)

6: availability of 520 sprockets for the transmission output shaft.

I also considered a daytona 675 but reliability and overall cost were concerns.
 
Last edited:
T
Feb 20, 2019
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The Husaburg 570 is a low revving heavy flywheel turd.

Have you actually used it? :)
I attach the actual dyno... note this is rwhp, not crank marketing hp. Most 450-500cc are 40-45 rwhp at sealevel alt...

570 Berg with 137 kit is only 140kg (308lbs). How do I know? I just bought one :) and it is 150kg packed, incl rear suspension & shock (no wheels)...

155091456534042.jpg
 
Last edited:
M
Jan 14, 2004
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My buddy owned a 570 Berg with a 137 TS. It was perhaps the least favourite bike I have ridden. I didn't like it at all but it was good on the trail. There's a lot of focus on weight and yes it does make a difference but kit performance and set up trump weight in every situation.

M5
 
Last edited:

Sheetmetalfab

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Have you actually used it? :)
I attach the actual dyno... note this is rwhp, not crank marketing hp. Most 450-500cc are 40-45 rwhp at sealevel alt...

570 Berg with 137 kit is only 140kg (308lbs). How do I know? I just bought one :) and it is 150kg packed, incl rear suspension & shock (no wheels)...

Looks like you already decided. ?

My opinion is based entirely on many reviews and references comparing the two bikes. (450 vs 570)

You need to Ride it and compare to a 450.

Let us know what you think.


(Dyno numbers don’t always translate to the snow)
 
M
Jan 14, 2004
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The bike makes good power but it just delivers it in an odd way. Its a short shifter, not really an ideal snow bike platform. I don't like how the 70 degree motor carries its weight, its kind of top heavy. Maybe you will love it but don't expect nimble handling.


M5
 

ravenlunatic

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Rekluse Clutch

I'm new to the snowbike world and picked up a low houred 2015 KTM 450. I put a Rekluse on right off the bat and have noticed that nine times out of ten my bike won't start unless i'm in neutral even with clutch pulled in. Wondering if this is pretty normal or is there something out of adjustment?
Thanks
 
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