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Prayn4snow: It has come to my attention that so suffer from “CRS”. A come thing in older adults.
850 Indy Specialty clutch work on my RMK
- Thread starter Prayn4snow
- Start date
Prayn4snow: It has come to my attention that so suffer from “CRS”. A come thing in older adults.
S
hmmm my wife just tells me its selective memory.....she's probably right my brain throws away the useless info like get milk all I can remember is GET AV GASS SNACKS AND 5 HOURS OF SLEEP BEFORE THE RIDE TOMORROW!!!!
For any of you doing work on your own clutches. Please be safe. You can buy a secondary tool like mine (see pics) pretty cheap. If your taking out the Torx screws for the 1st time they might need some heat for the locktite. I would also suggest some good snap ring pliers. These are pics of my other old sled.
Your right, good advice. I only use the green ones on the belts. I used to use them on the clutch faces. When I did, I would only use light pressure to get the belt residue off because to hard and you can wear groves from your fingers. I never had this happen, put told its easy to do. Anyone have that happen?
Originally Posted by bryceraisanen
Way to get after it! I send my clutches in when they're new too. Never had a crank problem.
I have a question that somewhat pertains though:
Everytime I do the belt tightening procedure, I end up with a belt that squeals at idle once I actually go riding. What am I doing wrong?
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This is a good write up that Indy Dan has on his site to further explain adjusting belt deflection:
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/a9a8d9_6ea22bb4ba0a4b3c8e655b7b746155b8.pdf
Way to get after it! I send my clutches in when they're new too. Never had a crank problem.
I have a question that somewhat pertains though:
Everytime I do the belt tightening procedure, I end up with a belt that squeals at idle once I actually go riding. What am I doing wrong?
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
This is a good write up that Indy Dan has on his site to further explain adjusting belt deflection:
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/a9a8d9_6ea22bb4ba0a4b3c8e655b7b746155b8.pdf
So, Ive been out west riding for a few weeks at different elevations. The lower (6000ft) elevations in CO had some good snow with a good base. The higher elevations (9-11,000) had great powder with little to no base where we were. Indy Specialty's clutching worked excellent in all these areas with simply changing the magnets. This 850 pulls nice! I also spent a couple days on an Alpha 1 again. Impressive sled, still glad I snow checked the 850.
On the squeling with perfect deflection, try to ride it hard a bit before adjusting. Get everything as hot and swollen/expanded as it will get when riding, then your deflection should be bullseye!
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Sent fra min S60 via Tapatalk
Some people were asking questions about clutching here: (Indy Specialties or MDS clutch kit). Rather than repeating some of this I pulled it up for some of the pics and info. For you new guys or for people getting their sleds ready for the season now is the time to send off your clutches to a reputable shop before they get crazy busy. There are some notable differences on how companies change their adjustable weights as well as others have mentioned.
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Indy Specialty did the machining and balancing on my 2020 Khaos, super clean, right specs set, perfectly balanced and never needs balanced again! They did update a couple things for the lower elevation guys too, good stuff!
The new weights for the lower elevation are super accurate when I weighted all 3. These are the Mountain Mod Indy Specialty weights for 2020, still lots of room for more magnets if you add more power, and of course easy to take out weight to dial in perfect RPM when going up in elevation. When I weighted the 3 weights in the last pic they 2 were exactly the same the 3 was 0.1 gram different That is precise! 
I see lots of people like adjustable weights... curious- what is the proper way to adjust when there are 4 holes and each magnet is approx. 1 gram? For example if you need/want to add 2 grams are you loading just the heel? Holes 2&4 or 1&3? I would assume no matter how you do it the weight is shifting different from how it does when empty or loaded evenly all the way across? No matter how you load it with 2 grams, it about has to be different than adding a 2 gram heavier 10 series weight which is heavier across the entire weight(they just get wider as they get heavier).
The best way for me to answer this is to use Indy Specialty adjustable weight overview and then the Mountain weight set up below. The 2 biggest advantages of adjustable weights is you can fine tune the weight for your riding style and the ability to run 1 set of weights to run from Sea level to mountain elevations. I ride each winter in Upper MI, WI, MT, CO, ID and Wyoming. I would need a lot of different weights if it wasn't for adjustable weights. https://www.indyspecialty.com/resources scroll down to the bottom and you will see these two references.
Yeah I had IS clutching in my 2017 800... seemed like I would never be at the correct finish RPM by simply adding/subtracting a magnet from holes 1&2(2&3) for a 2k elevation change, which is what was recommended to me.
Wasn’t sure how others do it for going from say 10k to 8k... with the 10 series its as easy as going to a 2 gram heavier weight.
In the meantime I’ve gone back to 10 series for simplicitys sake and I ride everywhere from 2k to 12k. And only need 4 sets of weights... just seems easier to throw the correct weight in for the correct elevation and know what its gonna do.... not an attempt to bash, just looking for some insight on the proper way to load them for elevation changes.
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I’ve been using green on my clutches for 25 years. I’ve never seen that happen, but.....”I’ve seen guys that can wreck an anvil with a rubber hammer”
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