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'16 Axys Boondocker side kick issue

nater24

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So me and buddy of mine put these kits on our sleds last year. Each sled is a 2016 Axys and each kit is the 2016 base BD side kick kit. We ride at 9k-10k. Last year we were just using 91 non ethanol fuel but kept getting the Det code so started to mix a little 100 octane unleaded Sunoco race fuel and stopped getting the Det code. However, we were both getting a little bog at a certain RPM. It wasn't bad at all last year. Now this year we decided to mix Sunoco 110 octane Leaded fuel because it is the same cost as the 100 Unleaded fuel thus allowing us to mix less to get the same overall octane. We are mixing so we get to 93 total octane and we use 110 leaded and 91 non ethanol at the pump. Went out yesterday in 5 feet of total snow and 3 of it was fresh powder. Needless to say it was WOT type of day. The problem is that the bog that were experiencing last year is way worse now. In fact my sled bogs at 7500 rpm without fail. I don't get any Det code... it just bogs down to 6500 and then picks back up to 7500 and then bogs again. If anything we are running with a little higher total octane this year vs last year so I don't think the Det thing is the issue. Also, yesterday was 0 degrees so I know that would cause a leaning effect. We tried both the Eth setting and Non Eth setting which didn't make a difference either way.

What would the issue/issues be? Is the leaded fuel not a good thing to run in these sleds? Could it have damaged a sensor somewhere? Is our octane too high for this kit? And finally, could it just be that we need to get our ECU reflashed with the 2017 flash and then have the BD box flashed?

Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
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M8Chris

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Last year my airbox cracked and it was doing what you are describing. Check that maybe? I always run 1-2 gallons of race fuel.
 

2XM3

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On a side note the lead will sometimes mess with sensors, however in the sleds its pretty rare, i'd check stuff and try a 50/50 mix of 91 and 100ll avgas. See how it responds

oh, when did you last change your plugs ? just a thought
 
D

Dabull

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Isn't this a pump gas turbo that is set up to run 91 ethonal fuel. Why does everyone add race fuel? Is it hitting the det sensor at higher elevations if you don't add race fuel?
 
T

TheJett29

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Put in "ethanol mode" run 91 premium
Make sure air box isn't cracked
I would once a year check your TPS

And it will rock
 

nater24

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Checked the airbox and the all the lines and rubber boots/connectors and everything seems good. I swapped out for new plugs yesterday on the mountain and she ran great for about 5 minutes and then went back to bogging again. And as I said in the initial post we have tried both the eth and non eth settings and neither one solved the problem.

@ Dabull - yes they say this is a pump gas kit but as I said in the initial post with just 91 non eth fuel we were hitting the Det code. That is why we started mixing race fuel.

I'm going to get the ECU and BD box flashed with the 2017 flash and then go from there.

Thanks again for your replies
 

Iceman56

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Checked the airbox and the all the lines and rubber boots/connectors and everything seems good. I swapped out for new plugs yesterday on the mountain and she ran great for about 5 minutes and then went back to bogging again. And as I said in the initial post we have tried both the eth and non eth settings and neither one solved the problem.

@ Dabull - yes they say this is a pump gas kit but as I said in the initial post with just 91 non eth fuel we were hitting the Det code. That is why we started mixing race fuel.

I'm going to get the ECU and BD box flashed with the 2017 flash and then go from there.

Thanks again for your replies

How bad of bog is it? Like it bogs down everytime it hit 7500? Unhook BD box hook it up stock and see if it bogs. If not something is wrong with your box. I did this and sent my box back to get a sensor fixed
 

nater24

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How bad of bog is it? Like it bogs down everytime it hit 7500? Unhook BD box hook it up stock and see if it bogs. If not something is wrong with your box. I did this and sent my box back to get a sensor fixed

Yep it would bog down everytime once it hit 7500. we figured it is either that the octane that we mixed to was too high (which I kind of doubt) or the exhaust valve was so gummed up that it wasn't opening all the way. I sucked all the mixed fuel out and put 91 non ethonal fuel in along with a few ounces of seafoam and went and ran it today. Had a couple of little bogs but it cleaned up and started running great again. I called the polaris dealer to see what it would take to clean the power valve/exhaust valve and he said its quite a process and that you shouldn't do it because it takes a special tool to put it back in and have it calibrated accurately. Anyone else have any experience with this?
 

CO 2.0

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Pull the steering post out and pull the exhaust valve out after taking bolts out. Just beware springs and valves can pop out and go everywhere once out, so hold them in place. Dont disconnect cable and you are fine. Dirty exhaust valves and where actuator cable slides into it need cleaned every 500 miles if using ves gold. I clean mine every 250 mi. Had bogging cause of this. On top of intake, exhaust, throttle ca b le length, tps, and tss bogs
 

MKULTRA

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my dealer told me it was easy to do the power valve and there was nothing special to do....lol
 
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M8Chris

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Update on the sled? I'm having similar issues hoping it's just a minor issue and need to clean the valves or a boost leak
 

sledsnowco

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I'm having similar issues. In really deep snow I'm hitting det and getting a bog as well. I've ran 91 eth, non eth and av gas and it doesn't change. I'm running a 16 axys with 17 bd sidekick with 17 mapping. Would really like to figure this out, any help would be appreciated.
 

nater24

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Update on my issue fixes

Below is what I went through to fix the issue/issues with my sled.

In regards to the Det issue... I had to mix 1-2 gallons of race fuel last year to get it to not Detonate. I was mixing Sunoco 100 octane unleaded race fuel last year.

Below is list of what I did in chronological order.

1. Started out mixing Sunoco 110 octane leaded race fuel this season. Did this because it was the same price as the 100 octane unleaded fuel and figured I could achieve the same overall octane with less race fuel and ultimately less cost. I'm not 100% sure if the 110 race fuel that I bought was bad fuel or not but decided not to use it. The major bog problem continued.

2. Checked the primary spring, cam arms, rollers, and spider and found no issues. Put about 5-6 ounces of Seafoam in about 5 gallons of 91 non ethonal fuel and ran the sled and it actually ran pretty good so I thought I had found the fix. On the next ride it was right back to bogging.

3. Swapped my secondary clutch with a team tied clutch and the bogging still persisted. I felt confident that it didn't have anything to do with clutching at that point.

4. Plugged in my brothers E-Key from his BD kit and also moved the T-Map sensor to several different locations but the bogging was the same.

5. Checked all rubber boots to make sure there were no leaks and also checked all electrocal connections. Especially checked the relay switches that have the connection that goes to the exhaust valve servo coming out of them and applied dielectric grease to them. Still the same Bog

6. Found the thread on here about the coolant line that runs off the coolant bottle and to the front of the motor and how it rubs on a bolt and can rub a hole through it. Checked mine and it was almost rubbed completely through. I zip tied it up and out of the way and covered the tube just to make sure it didn't wear any more. I also decided to do a compression test and each cylinder had about 110 PSI which, according to Jared Sessions, is good given my elevation that I tested them at (about 5k feet).

7. Cleaned my own exhaust valves. The dealer told me that he would have to clean these as it takes a special tool and it's quite a process but he was 2 weeks out from being able to get to it so I choose to clean them myself. When I tried to pull them out they were so gummed up that it was very difficult to get them out (my sled has about 550 miles). Spent about 2 hours just cleaning them and put it all back together and figured that must have been the problem but the bogging continued.

8. Took it into the dealer to get the exhaust valve calibrated and have him do a diagnostic test. He said there were several codes showing that the exhaust valves had been removed and hadn't be re calibrated but no other codes. He did the re calibration and I took it up and NO MORE bog. BUT...... My sled would only hit about 7800-8000 rpm. I was definitely happy that the major bogging was gone and do feel like the exhaust valves were the issue with this but I still needed to figure out why I wasn't getting the RPM that I needed.

9. Took connections off of turbo itself(exhaust/muffler, Charge tube, and air tube) to check impellers and they looked fine. Also pulled the aluminum air box as BD said that some of the early boxes were breaking at the weld on the outer edge. I plugged all the holes in the air box except one and shinned a light inside(I was in a dark room) and couldn't see any light coming through any breaks or cracks. Took the mid pipe out and and applied high temp silicon to the connections on both ends and when I took the muffler off the turbo it nearly fell apart. Most of the rivets on the canister part were pulled through and it was about to come into 2 different pieces. I called BD and they sent a new one(remember that this is the 2016 kit so it doesn't have the updated better exhaust that the 2017 kits have). Clamped the new one on and went out for ride to test it out in 2+ feet of fresh powder and it ran just like it did last year. No bogging and I was getting the RPMs that I wanted. I was so pumped to finally have my sled back and ripping after month of trouble shooting and not being able to actually ride.

My conclusion is that the exhaust valves need to be taken out and cleaned at least every 500 miles or before each season and they need to be re calibrated once they go back in. Make sure the exhaust connections are good and tight as they can be. Make sure your muffler isn't coming apart.

With regards to detonation.... Me and 3 buddies have these turbo set ups(all on 2016 axys') and have found (given our elevation that we ride at; 8500-10k feet) that we need a total octane of somewhere between 92-93 in order to not throw the Det code and feel like non ethanol fuel is the way to go if you can get it.

I hope this helps you figure out your issues!!
 
J
Oct 15, 2013
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For those getting the det code, how long are you WOT when you hit DET? I was told 10 sec max at WOT. Can just be a quick little blurp and then back in, but not more than 10 sec at a time.

How many mikes have you guys got with the turbo? And at what elevations are you riding?

I was also told to run 1 gallon if race/av gas for the first couple tanks to help build up carbon on the pistons to help disapate heat and prevent DET codes.

LASTLY, AND THIS IS A BIG ONE...
When you fill your tank at the pump you should try and dump the first gallon or 2 into your truck or an extra gas can because most likely the people before used low octane fuel and up to 1-2 gallons of fuel from the hose to the fuel pump in the ground can contain the lower octane fuel. It may not seem like much but over time it could dilute your octane level down too low causing DET codes.
 
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