2005 rmk clutching

fitler · Aug 17, 2009

I have done lot of searching on this subject but it gets difficult to find an answer with all the conflicting info out there.

I was planing on sending clutch to indydan and
I will be running 19/43 gearing and 66-44 .46 helix
elevation will be 11,000 and up
engine has reflash for slp pipe/can. also has slp head

Was wondering if anyone had info on what springs and weights i should run. I'm planning on sending the clutch for cleaning and balance and wanted to know what to tell them in regards to weights. I go some mtx weights with the sled but not sure what i need to have him install.

Thanks

BIGGDAWG · Aug 17, 2009

I would just tell dan to do his magic on the clutching. tell him your mods and elevation and he will get u setup.

donbrown · Aug 17, 2009

I use the black / green spring ... other use the black/almond.

Weights 10-66 10-74 weights range is what I know.

Every sled is different. Want to acheive around 8000-8200 RPM for max power.

Hopefully someone will chime in for the official optimal power RPM.

BIGGDAWG · Aug 17, 2009

donbrown said:
I use the black / green spring ... other use the black/almond.

Weights 10-66 10-74 weights range is what I know.

Every sled is different. Want to acheive around 8000-8200 RPM for max power.

Hopefully someone will chime in for the official optimal power RPM.

SLP says 7600-7800 rpm with their pipe is the target rpm range

donbrown · Aug 17, 2009

BIGGDAWG said:
SLP says 7600-7800 rpm with their pipe is the target rpm range

Like I said every sled is different.

I have a SLP pipe and can with reflash and run WOT at 8200-8300 with a 166 track, black/green and 10-70 weights with floated secondary, 19-42 gear

94fordguy · Aug 17, 2009

donbrown said:
Like I said every sled is different.

I have a SLP pipe and can with reflash and run WOT at 8200-8300 with a 166 track, black/green and 10-70 weights with floated secondary, 19-42 gear

wow... What's the Rev limiter kick in at on these sleds?

donbrown · Aug 18, 2009

94fordguy said:
wow... What's the Rev limiter kick in at on these sleds?

I don't know but I am quoting peak RPM memory off the digital readout.

I usually run aroun 8100 - 8200

I ride 8000-10000 feet.

fitler · Aug 18, 2009

Thanks for the info. From talking with Indy Dan today i can see that he knows more about this stuff then i could hope to learn so I'm just going to take his advice on everything.

Should i stick with Polaris weights or run the MTX adjustable ones that came with (not on) my sled?

What might be a good secondary spring? I for got to ask Dan but probably will eventually.

Thanks

donbrown · Aug 18, 2009

fitler said:
Thanks for the info. From talking with Indy Dan today i can see that he knows more about this stuff then i could hope to learn so I'm just going to take his advice on everything.

Should i stick with Polaris weights or run the MTX adjustable ones that came with (not on) my sled?

What might be a good secondary spring? I for got to ask Dan but probably will eventually.

Thanks

Personally I would send the clutch to INDYDAN and pay the money and let him set it up for you.

For the money it is VERY GOOD INSURANCE so your sled does not eat a belt causing an slipped bearing.

mountainhorse · Aug 18, 2009

The last setup on my 2005 900 RMK with 159" track at 6-10k feet.

64-42 helix, red/pink spring.... make sure the bushings are in good shape..

Primary... 11-68 weights (poliaris) with the Almond 140/330 spring. 19-42 gearing.

This gave good backshift, lower belt temps and good performance.

For Higher altitudes... you can run a bit stiffer finshing rate on the primary spring... but the engagment force should stay about the same.

Run ONLY the 3211115 belt.

Make sure the motor mounts are in good shape... if running stock... run the SLP torque arm and stop.

Many of the 2005's have broken motor mounts in them and, unfortunately are not able to be checked with the motor in the sled.

Also, if you have more than 1500 miles on the sled... I would change out the PTO side jackshaft bearing as this is a trouble area and the bearing is a sealed bearing (not greaseable.

Sell the MTX, IMO...they really are not "adjustable"... you swage the rivets into place and have to drill them out.

You should have 2 grams on either side of your wieghts for altitude tuning when/if you travel.

good luck

fitler · Aug 18, 2009

mountainhorse said:
The last setup on my 2005 900 RMK with 159" track at 6-10k feet.

64-42 helix, red/pink spring.... make sure the bushings are in good shape..

Primary... 11-68 weights (poliaris) with the Almond 140/330 spring. 19-42 gearing.

This gave good backshift, lower belt temps and good performance.

For Higher altitudes... you can run a bit stiffer finshing rate on the primary spring... but the engagment force should stay about the same.

Run ONLY the 3211115 belt.

Make sure the motor mounts are in good shape... if running stock... run the SLP torque arm and stop.

Many of the 2005's have broken motor mounts in them and, unfortunately are not able to be checked with the motor in the sled.

Also, if you have more than 1500 miles on the sled... I would change out the PTO side jackshaft bearing as this is a trouble area and the bearing is a sealed bearing (not greaseable.

Sell the MTX, IMO...they really are not "adjustable"... you swage the rivets into place and have to drill them out.

You should have 2 grams on either side of your weights for altitude tuning when/if you travel.

good luck

Thanks for your time

We looked at the mounts the other day and they look good. Motor was (supposedly) replaced 250 miles ago. It looks like they must have put in some new ones. Sled already had torque and stop so that was pretty promising to find.

"PTO side jackshaft bearing" are there any upgraded versions of this bearing? or should i be good with OEM?

guidoxpress · Aug 19, 2009

filter..

here is a link to the same info your asking that i did a while back..got some great inputs and really helped me out..

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=122258

in short..for an 05 900...

MH is pretty much dead on to what i am using now..but along with what i have, i also inputed what you should have for your altitude...

-18/40 gears with Auto Tranny Fluid (or 19/41 with stock chain)
-3211115 belt with proper deflection/shimming
-BALANCE YOUR PRIMARY/new bushings ect...
-74g MTX (no rivots, for your altitude)
-Team Green/pink primary spring (for your altitude)
-red/pink secondary spring
-66/42.46ER helix
-2 derlin washers
-float your secondary

but either call SLP and talk to them, since your at 11K ft-up for their tuning reccommenadations..OR like other said..send it to Dan and let him work majic on it..

guidoxpress · Aug 19, 2009

great question about the PTO bearing also..

as of yet, there is NO aftermarket "greasable" PTO replacement bearing...WORSE DESIGN EVER IMO...

stick with a stock one..

mountainhorse · Aug 19, 2009

stick with a stock one..

A NEW stock one!

guidoxpress · Aug 19, 2009

..

mountainhorse said:
A NEW stock one!

HA!!...YES thats what i meant..a NEW one..

sleddude · Aug 19, 2009

weights

mountainhorse said:
The last setup on my 2005 900 RMK with 159" track at 6-10k feet.

64-42 helix, red/pink spring.... make sure the bushings are in good shape..

Primary... 11-68 weights (poliaris) with the Almond 140/330 spring. 19-42 gearing.

This gave good backshift, lower belt temps and good performance.

For Higher altitudes... you can run a bit stiffer finshing rate on the primary spring... but the engagment force should stay about the same.

Run ONLY the 3211115 belt.

Make sure the motor mounts are in good shape... if running stock... run the SLP torque arm and stop.

Many of the 2005's have broken motor mounts in them and, unfortunately are not able to be checked with the motor in the sled.

Also, if you have more than 1500 miles on the sled... I would change out the PTO side jackshaft bearing as this is a trouble area and the bearing is a sealed bearing (not greaseable.

Sell the MTX, IMO...they really are not "adjustable"... you swage the rivets into place and have to drill them out.

You should have 2 grams on either side of your wieghts for altitude tuning when/if you travel.

good luck

What are the benifits of going with the 11 series weights VS. the 10's.
Example - 10-74 VS. 11-74?

Also if you normally run 10 -74 what would you run on the 11 series weights?

BIGGDAWG · Aug 19, 2009

sleddude said:
What are the benifits of going with the 11 series weights VS. the 10's.
Example - 10-74 VS. 11-74?

Also if you normally run 10 -74 what would you run on the 11 series weights?

here is the polaris bulletin explaining the diff.

fitler · Aug 19, 2009

Good stuff now we are getting somewhere.
Couple more ?'s

how do you float the secondary? It seems like it may already have this because the secondary will move back and forth on the shaft.

I was planning on asking Dan if he had an upgraded bearing for it. Doesn't his company build an specialty crank setup for this? Are the bearings upgraded on those upgraded?

mountainhorse · Aug 19, 2009

fitler...

Go to the top of this 900 forum and click on the sticky with the links on it...

Spend some time reading the links and you will get an insight on most any question you have to ask.

Dan does not do jackshaft bearings... there are no upgraded bearings for that... just use the polaris available one... no aftermarket bearings are availble any longer...

Good luck with your new sled...MH

11 Series Weights
WEIGHT GRAMS(+/- .8g) PART NUMBER
11-40 1322593
11-42 1322592
11-44 1322591
11-48 1322590
11-50 1322589
11-52 1322595
11-64 1322604
11-66 1322559
11-68 1322558
11-70 1322523
11-72 1322524
11-74 1322525
11-76 1322526

jafraune · Aug 20, 2009

BIGGDAWG said:
I would just tell dan to do his magic on the clutching. tell him your mods and elevation and he will get u setup.

Exactly what I did....and it was spot on!!!!!

2005 rmk clutching

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