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121" to 136" on Evolved chassie

G
Nov 24, 2013
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So I got me a 136" x-tra10 skid from a RMK ( 1999 I t hink) and I am putting it in my 1998 Indy(evolved). I notice the skid is lower in the back than my stock x-tra10. I mean that from floor up to rear mounting point is shorter on the 136 thatn the 121... Does it has to do with angle of skid maybe?

Now I am goingt o mount the skid to the chassie and I am curious about the holes.... On jbshocks it says 27 15/16 distance between the mounting holes and I am wondering if that goes for this setup. The skids look the same and measure the same in front so I hope that the stock hole would be fine there...but I need to find out where to drill the rear mounting hole...

Also...on my stock skid I used 2" dropbrakcets in rear and I lowered it 1" in front... Should I use the brackets again or just go for stock RMK mounting holes?
 
C

cowboy181d

Well-known member
Nov 1, 2008
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Burns oregon
Ok here is what I do when changing the xtras out to a longer skid, if your going for the RMK setup...

look inside the tunnel you will see an extra hole about an inch down lower in the tunnel's front skid mount you will most likely have to drill it through the tunnel this will be your front mount. On the rear use stock RMK rear skid mount plates, bolt them to the skid and lower the tunnel down on to them(make sure to push down on the rear of the sled a bit to make sure they are seated fully) But not so much that you compress the skid you are just going for set at the right location in the tunnel.

You will most likely have to remove the 121 rear skid mounts from the tunnel. now drill up through the mounting holes (under running board) install two rivets(I use aluminum with steel mandrels,to prevent rust staining on tunnel)(don't use a cheapie hand riveter go pneumatic, clamps tighter) . now that the brackets are set in tunnel unbolt the skid and lift the sled up drill out the rest of the rear mount bracket holes using the brackets as guides and you sir should be set!

I would not mess around with changing the skid mounting up and down as this can have adverse effects....I.E. trenching, breaking the skid etc.... I have seen what can happen when you mess up a skids mounting I know your thinking break the skid?? what? A friend of mine started messing with the skids mounting(think he got it under tension fore and aft...) and first jump he made....BAM folded the rear arm and tore the rails....
 
G
Nov 24, 2013
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Thank you. I will try and find a set of stock rmk brackets then and see how it works out.

Any other trix up your sleeve that can be useful..? :face-icon-small-coo
 
S
Nov 27, 2007
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Minneapolis,MN
Startling line products (slp) still sells drop brackets for the old chasis in their catalog and then you have a few mounting hole options as the stock rmks mounted underneath the running boards for the rear bolts holes vs. inside the tunnel as all the flatland sleds did
 

Bushwacker1

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 27, 2008
296
183
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Wisconsin
I am not saying that other methods wont work but I would take some measurements from the sled the skid came out of. I always measure from the installed drive shaft centerline and use the top of the tunnel to project that shaft centerline back for the amount of drop the holes need to have from the top of the tunnel. I have attached some info from Holz on how they recommend mounting their skids. The measurements most likely will not be the ones you need but it shows how to get measurements from the donor sled.
 

Attachments

  • HRP Suspension Hard Point Dimensions.pdf
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S
Nov 27, 2007
247
19
18
Minneapolis,MN
Agreed i did the same thing when i installed an extra lite in my wedge but you have to consider the sled you are installing it on also. I measured from the center of the drive shaft to the center of the front torque arm bolt and then from the center of the front torque arm bolt to the top of the inside of the tunnel and kept that measurement the same so i knew track length wouldn't be an issue and to keep the front of the skid where it should be. Then i installed drop brackets that were pretty universal so i had adjustability on my side and i changed it a few times before i was happy with where it was mounted.
 
G
Nov 24, 2013
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Well since the skid came from the same chassie as mine is there wouldnt be to hard to get it in ... I used the same front holes but mounted it one step lower than the 307 due to the fact the rmk boggie was a little lower. It worked out just fine. I then bolted on the brackets I had on the skid and then sat the chassie down on it, made sure that the rear arm folded the correct way and pressed down the chassie slightly. The height was good, the stands were perfect so I bolted it there.
The brackets I had were similar to stock... t-shaped so they give support both under the footrest as well as a bolt through the side of the tunnel.

I think this will work just fine and I will post pics as soon as I can :)

1426485_652989361391081_252916349_n.jpg
 
Last edited:
G
Nov 24, 2013
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Well I tried this setup now since we got some snow and it seems to be allright. Of course I will have to wait till the deep snow is here but still....it felt good and handled just like it should. Hopefully it will be just as good later on.

Jnfortunately I could just get my hands on a ripsaw 32 for now but I put it there to be able to mount and try the machine.
 
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