BDX/SSI Titanium jackshaft installing problems

Passelat · Jan 9, 2016

The splines on the new jackshaft seems to be too long on the chaincase side.
I have C3 belt drive and here is some pictures.
The last pic is showing when the gear is lined up.
Somebody who knows what is going on here?

richardderkevorkian · Jan 9, 2016

Passelat said:
The splines on the new jackshaft seems to be too long on the chaincase side.
I have C3 belt drive and here is some pictures.
The last pic is showing when the gear is lined up.
Somebody who knows what is going on here?

Looks like a 4 stroke jackshaft with mechanical reverse

Thunder101 · Jan 9, 2016

Is titanium the way to go ? I though high carbon steel was tougher? Heavier but seems this shaft is a weak spot. Any input?

Passelat · Jan 9, 2016

That is what I suspected, even I dont know how the 4 stroke axle looks like. I would try to get a hold of BDX again, did not get any response on the email I sent a week ago.

05M7 · Jan 9, 2016

It's definitely the 1100t shaft

LoudHandle · Jan 9, 2016

Machine a spacer that fits between the washer and the top sprocket and you should be able to use that shaft, correct? Since you are in Europe that would save you a lot of down time and money. IMO

minet · Jan 10, 2016

23

if they sent you the wrong shaft they need to send you the right one.

if they want the old one back its on their dime

Passelat · Jan 10, 2016

minet said:
if they sent you the wrong shaft they need to send you the right one.

if they want the old one back its on their dime

I am one of the three guys that bought the axle from this thread

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397024&highlight=titanium

Thunder101 said:
Is titanium the way to go ? I though high carbon steel was tougher? Heavier but seems this shaft is a weak spot. Any input?

I did not bought this axle because of extra strength, but because of weight loss and extra support in the splines for the top gear. I am building a fully carbon fiber sled and everything needs to be lightweight.

LoudHandle said:
Machine a spacer that fits between the washer and the top sprocket and you should be able to use that shaft, correct? Since you are in Europe that would save you a lot of down time and money. IMO

I would also then need to make a spacer behind the gear, because if not, it will travel on the splines and then hit the chaincase housing.

minet · Jan 10, 2016

They said something about a spacer cup or something in that thread. . Maybe you need that

Passelat · Jan 10, 2016

I think that is just if I were using a 12-13 bearing, and I then would need a 14-15? But I am not using either, I have the bearing from C3 because of the belt drive.

Passelat · Jan 13, 2016

"It's the right one. U need a cup shaped retainer on the end. For that sprocket.
We can make them."

Got answer.
Still going to need a spacer behind gear. And I dont want to have the axle unnecessary long, so thinking to cut down the axle and then use a washer at the end.

officer farva · Jan 14, 2016

I also got one of those 3 ti shafts they had. Worked fine with my tki belt drive on a 15 HCR. Only thing I needed to do was make a deeper cupped washer for the end cause the splines were longer. From what I was told they made the splines longer so you had full engagement of the pulley on the splines.

cisco · Jan 14, 2016

i am the third one that have that ti shaft . i machine/cut to install in chain case . fit nicely

BBP · Jan 15, 2016

officer farva said:
I also got one of those 3 ti shafts they had. Worked fine with my tki belt drive on a 15 HCR. Only thing I needed to do was make a deeper cupped washer for the end cause the splines were longer. From what I was told they made the splines longer so you had full engagement of the pulley on the splines.

cisco said:
i am the third one that have that ti shaft . i machine/cut to install in chain case . fit nicely

Do either of you have many miles on them yet? Will they hold up to a beating?

Passelat · Jan 30, 2016

Ended up with making a spacer behind the sprocket and then cut 12,4mm off at the end.

madmax · Jan 31, 2016

Did you weigh the Ti shaft and the stock shaft?

Passelat · Jan 31, 2016

Yes, it is 900 grams lighter then stock.

Whitefix · Feb 1, 2016

Passelat said:
Yes, it is 900 grams lighter then stock.

That's 2lbs and 1/8 oz.... For those that don't deal with lbs, oz and grams on the regular!!

BBP · Jan 15, 2017

How are the ti shafts holding up? And how do you get the stock shaft out of the chaincase bearing? I'm beating the crap out of it & it isn't budging.

officer farva · Feb 12, 2017

BBP said:
How are the ti shafts holding up? And how do you get the stock shaft out of the chaincase bearing? I'm beating the crap out of it & it isn't budging.

Mine has about 1000 miles of abuse on it with a 180hp sled and no issues. I had to remove both clutches and take the torque plate out and pull the whole thing out the clutch side. Then press the clutch side bearing out and press it on the new shaft. What year sled are you installing it on?

BDX/SSI Titanium jackshaft installing problems

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