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BDX Hood/Intake (Anyone installed it) and chaincase cover?

WaBackcountry

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Lack of info on the BDX intake/hood so i was wondering if anyone has received it yet and what the thoughts were.

With headlight delete does it still allow mounting of gauge in normal spot?

How was sealing from snow around the intake area at the nose?

Chaincase cover--It says 8 lbs weightloss with oil delete but i thought oil delete alone was 12 lbs? I'm confused?

Appreciate the feedback.
 

backcountryislife

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Lack of info on the BDX intake/hood so i was wondering if anyone has received it yet and what the thoughts were.

With headlight delete does it still allow mounting of gauge in normal spot?

How was sealing from snow around the intake area at the nose?

Chaincase cover--It says 8 lbs weightloss with oil delete but i thought oil delete alone was 12 lbs? I'm confused?

Appreciate the feedback.

You didn't hear this from me, but I'm pretty sure the chaincase cover doesn't save any weight, if anything it gains... but it looks nice & finished and it gives you a dipstick. Oil delete "weight savings" are subjective. If you're dumb enough to run the stupid 55 gallon oil drum on the PC full, you save a bunch of weight, but I thought the accepted weight loss from oil at sight glass was 8.5. Haven't done a headlight delete, but I looked over the windshield setup/ delete at the snowshow & it looked very well sealed up, not sure about normal spot, it looked like it was pretty much the same location as stock, but lower obviously.
 
C

CatRpillar

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Lack of info on the BDX intake/hood so i was wondering if anyone has received it yet and what the thoughts were.

With headlight delete does it still allow mounting of gauge in normal spot?

How was sealing from snow around the intake area at the nose?

Chaincase cover--It says 8 lbs weightloss with oil delete but i thought oil delete alone was 12 lbs? I'm confused?

Appreciate the feedback.

Thought there were a couple of threads on that hood already? Real weight loss is more like 5lbs or so vs bdx early claims of 10+.

As bcil says, about 8.5lb loss measuring oil from the window, 12 is the figure starting from the tank full of oil.
 

Dam Dave

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I certainly hope no one is riding around with that oil tank full...........:face-icon-small-sho
 
K

knifedge

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--Skinz and BDX hoods look very similar, however there are diferences:


--Skinz has a hood / headlight delete / cold air intake listed in their catalog and was installed on a PC at the show also. Do not see it on the website.

--Basically Skinz draws the intake air from the suspension wells and behind the nose piece, seems shielded from snow build up and branches.

--BDX draws from top of hood and front leading nose section. A lot of times I cannot even see the hood due to being covered in snow and seems the front nose section takes a beating as well. Maybe it works ok...

--
 

backcountryislife

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--BDX draws from top of hood and front leading nose section. A lot of times I cannot even see the hood due to being covered in snow and seems the front nose section takes a beating as well. Maybe it works ok...

--

bdx also pulls from under the stock pieces on the sides, and pulls from the suspension wells also. Didn't know that till I got to see it in person at the show. They could really use to have better pics on their website.
 
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knifedge

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--I'd prefer if BDX closed off the front leading nose section. It would seem the snowscreen filtering material would get a little stressed pushing powder, slamming drifts, branches, etc. If it punctures or breaks, then what? Your sucking snow into the engine. Maybe it will work ok...
 

WaBackcountry

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6.3 lbs lost with headlights.:yo:

The 6.3lbs lost is keeping headlights. You can still lose 10+ with headlights deleted. These are two different intakes from BDX. I am trying to figure out if the factory guage mounts up nicely with the headlight deleted?
 
B

Bacon

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Same intake, they just have a plate on top to mount the gauge cause the lights are not there to mount to. I am also a little concerned about the intake in front and it being damaged by trees or even hard snow. Might try to make or find some kind of screen to help protect the front.
 

007

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That frogskin stuff is pretty tough. I ran there intake on my old M and that has the frogskin on the under side of the nose cone and in 4 years I only had to replace one.

If you make another protective screen over the top of it it will gather ice and snow and plug!

If your like me you carry duct tape anyways if you get a little tear tape it and ride it!

KJP
 

backcountryislife

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That frogskin stuff is pretty tough. I ran there intake on my old M and that has the frogskin on the under side of the nose cone and in 4 years I only had to replace one.

If you make another protective screen over the top of it it will gather ice and snow and plug!

If your like me you carry duct tape anyways if you get a little tear tape it and ride it!

KJP

Actually, if you carry the breathable medical tape (the silk kind, not the stuff that looks like plastic), it seals up the mesh well, and still allows air transfer.
 

mountaincat 800

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So you guys are saying that you can still put in over a quart and a half after the sight glass?:face-icon-small-sho
As bcil says, about 8.5lb loss measuring oil from the window, 12 is the figure starting from the tank full of oil.
 

polarisfornow

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Installing mine today. Here are my thoughts. Run the pro bumper. Prob never have an issue with the frogskins. Its a nice piece for what it is but has a huge design flaw that I noticed about 10 minutes into the install. On the stock PC the air temp sensor is at the peak of the intake where it get the coldest air. Well BDX didn't move the sensor so it now just has the sensor placed in the engine bay where it will just be sensing stale hot underhood air. Seriously!?!?! I will be changing this. Pics to follow.
 

polarisfornow

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Ok here are some pics of what I'm talking about. First you have the stock sensor location. Next the location that bdx has the sensor. You can see that without the plenum there the sensor is now just in the engine bay. Next you can see the back side of the bdx intake. That is only maybe 9 inches away from the stock location. All it would take is a piece of wire to the back of the intake spliced in and the sensor would then be in the intake drawing cold air. The last pic just shows the frogskins and where they can pull air from the back and sides.

20121102_135617.jpg 20121102_135707.jpg 20121102_135719.jpg 20121102_135724.jpg
 

polarisfornow

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Ok finished up on the bdx hood. First pic is of the underside of the hood. Just used the original sensor as a template to drill a couple holes into the back of the airbox.

Next I spliced the wires together to extend them back up to the dash. I only added about 6inches of wire to the sensor. If memory serves me the M series had a longer wire to start with so if someone had one of those laying around you could probably just use those.

You can see that I ran the plug up into the stock area so if the headlight or cluster needed to be removed it wouldn't interfere with the splices.

Then I drilled a couple small holes so I could thread a zip tie through the hood and hold the wire up tight to the hood. I did the holes in a area that is covered by the headlight so when everything is assembled you can't see the zip tie.

The last couple are the finished product of the under hood view and the the finished view. I also did the pro bumper which for the money, 150 at my dealer, is very stout and very light. Should work great for protecting the frogskins on the hood.

20121102_142349.jpg 20121102_153040.jpg 20121102_153731.jpg 20121102_153738.jpg 20121102_164716.jpg 20121102_171946.jpg
 
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CatRpillar

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So you guys are saying that you can still put in over a quart and a half after the sight glass?:face-icon-small-sho

bcil and I have agreed that the additional volume is 'virtual' space. It exists but then it doesn't, depending on how you look at it. I think we can call 2l of oil in that tank as aRTR - almost Ready to Run. lol
 
K
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Please do youself a huge favor and get rid of those stupid pinch splices....

If your going to go through the effort to move the sensor, and take all those pics, at least do it the right way and use solder and heat shrink tube.
 

polarisfornow

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Please do youself a huge favor and get rid of those stupid pinch splices....

If your going to go through the effort to move the sensor, and take all those pics, at least do it the right way and use solder and heat shrink tube.

The right way is certainly subjective. Those are not just garden variety pinch splices from a hardware store. They are actually something we use in the phone industry to splice phone lines. They are filled with a gel that when they get pinched it oozes around the wire and after a half hour it hardens creating a water tight connection. They are rated for outdoor use with a 100 year usable life span. I think they'll be just fine.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
 
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