Best Turbo Air Box Design, Resolving Boondocker AirBox Design Flaw

I was wondering if anyone could post a picture of their air box and tell how it performed with respect to even egt temps. My boondocker pg turbo air box brings the charge tube in at an angle from the top and directs more air mass to the pto cylinder causing the mag side to run very rich which makes tuning difficult. I don't like the idea of having to pull fuel from the mag side all the time so I will be welding up a new air box that induces a laminar flow. This should reduce the loss of kinetic energy of the air flow increasing turbine efficiency.

Will I notice an increase in lag from another two feet of charge tube length? I would like to run the charge tube in from the front more similar to the stock intake setup.

Has anyone else noticed lower egt temps on the mag side? Or noticed the mag side being the first to foul out when running to rich?

At first I thought the different temperatures were a sled issue. But after exchanging every component on the sled including the engine, swapping injectors, EVERYTHING, I reduced the issue to the air box. The sled runs dead nuts even egts +/- 10 degrees in the stock configuration. I would like to see some other turbo kit intake designs for some ideas. Or if anyone can recommend a good intake I might just buy one and save myself the time of welding one up. Nobody seems to show pictures of the components in their turbo kits.

that's exactly what im looking for. Im wondering what cutler wants for one of those. I will have to call.

I was also thinking about welding a BOV on there but I'm not sure what size to order or what spring to use. They have them at this link.

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/home.php?cat=249

Is there a certain size BOV I need or will most anything do? Most of these are for certain cars. I assume a car around 2.0 litres would work? And what's the best place to connect the vac line on the m1000.

Am I wasting my time with a BOV at only 6lb boost?

Would an intercooler be pointless at this low of boost? I think their like around 800 bucks from bd arent they?
Is there anything wrong with taking some reinforced rubber hose and putting a Y splitter on it and running those to the Intake?

Good job on your intake box welding. Did you use Argon/C02 Mix? I have a hobart wire feed welder and some aluminum wire and a regulator but i need to buy a tank and get some practice.

I was emailed by " Dale at CPC". Here is our conversation.

Hello,
I have a boondocker turbo pump gas m1000 and need to correct some of their design flaws to make it functional. I'm interested to see what you have for an air box and what kind of price I would be looking at for the box plus the charge tube and some misc. fittings to connect it up. As you probably know, the Boondocker pgm1000 intake design brings the charge tube in at an angle from the top which causes all kinds of turbulence and forces more air into the pto side making tuning difficult. Can you send me a picture of your airbox? Also am I wasting my time installing a BOV only running 6lb?
thanks
andy

Andy, yes I can help you. Go to www.cpcracing.com and then click on M1000 turbo information. Also on the lower left hand corner of our main page, click on technical information and insturctions and you can see exactly what you will need to do. BOV are not normally used on boost under 6 lbs, but there is a small benifit for using them for on and off throttle response. Let me know if I can help you. Dale

I can see a top view picture of the intake system but don't actually see a picture of the airbox. Perhaps I can find one on snowest. It just shows it coming in from the nose like it should. Is there a reason you use an aluminum air box and aluminum charge tube for the intake instead of rubber hoses and a Y splitter going to the throttle bodies?
andy

Andy, The larger the volume of air box, the better low end and throttle response that you have. The purpose for a aluminum charge tube is for an unobstructed flow of air and also it is a custom made one piece mandrel bent so that it fits perfectly without rubbing and vibrating on other components under the hood. Also we use a 2.5 inch rather than a 2 inch tube to deliver cooler air and more air than some of my competitors products.
As for the cold air, you can see that we use a flex hose off the turbo charger then into a collector box so that when you close the hood you get a perfect fit so that all the air going to the turbo charger comes from the the outside of the snowmobile. There is a large aluminum shield (aluminu does not melt) that fits on to the underside of the hood. Above this shiel is a cavity that draws in cold air from the existing vents that are left and right of the windshield and we also as part of our kit provide vents that are onto of the speedometer and left and right of the speedometer on the driverside of the windshield. We provide over 300 % increased "cold air" over the factory vents.
Thanks,
Dale

So in essence he said that you need a volume of air to create the proper throttle response and low end torque. This is perhaps the same theory as having a large stock air box on a N/A sled. If we use the same diameter hose as the throttle bodies, It would be very simple to create and intake that had more volume than the welded aluminum ones. A disadvantage to running a hose that is clamped onto the intake is that it might have a tendency to work itself loose at higher boost levels. At 5lb of boost each throttle body has an area of (2.75"/2)^2 * pi which is 5.94 square inches. *5psi equals a force of 29.7 lb per intake.. So I assume what you need to do is pull on your hose with 60lb of force and make sure it doesn't come off!.. this number seems high to me but that's the math.

And yea the y pipe intake design just makes total sense as far as creating laminar flow. One way to find out!.. Will have you some results by this weekend after I hit up the Home Depot.

Also Dave said something about their intake system providing 300% more flow. I would agree with that because when I swap from a vented stock hood to a Dimond S mesh hood, it runs noticeably better. You can never have have enough air flowing into your hood.

Are velocity stacks the venturi looking things you see when you look inside the air box of a polaris dragon? That just acts to increase the velocity/reduce pressure of the air going into the throttle bodies right? Kind of reminds me how those stupid reed spacers increase fuel efficiency by increasing air velocity through the cage.. Seems like atomization is all about air velocity! Somehow I aced Engineering Fluid Mechanics and this is still a subject I dont know anything about!