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Full Lotus D7 Silber turbo build

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Holomis International

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2008
754
64
28
www.holomis.com
Hello Guys and Gals

We are starting our Turbo build and thought we would post it for the forum to see.

We are starting off with our 2007 Dragon 700 shop sled. To it we will be adding the Silber turbo system, we will also be installing our new sled components such as our new FLM dragon front and rear bumpers and side running boards. It will also be getting custom paint and our new vent kits as well. Stay tuned to this post and check back often as we are going to do our best to keep the post pumping.

We have attached a couple pictures of the stock sled, along with the tear down and the arrival of our Silber kit.

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1

1badcowboy

Member
Oct 26, 2008
151
8
18
Elko NV
You will be happy with his kit i love mine. and the install is simple at some points you will ask ur self is it guna fit. but it fits like a glove. verry clean install.And justin is avalable almost 24-7 unless he is out of service for testing in yellowstone. keep us posted on how it all comes togather
 
H

Holomis International

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2008
754
64
28
www.holomis.com
It certainly does feel like Christmas

Jonce your install looks great!

1badcowboy we will certainly keep everyone posted as we go here.

tree-climber we are not doing the narrow front end, we are acutally installing our FLM Turbo bumper that we are now going to be producing, he is a couple shots of the proto-type bumper.

Thanks

FLM Staff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com

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H

Holomis International

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2008
754
64
28
www.holomis.com
hmm

New Bumper looks Beefy!

But a lot of snow is going to pack the front of the sled ! Huge Ice block!

Hello

The bumper is not done yet, we are just making the front venting kit for that area, it will be stronger then the stock plastic and filter screen that is in there, and will fit snuggly around the bumper inserts. So there will not be any ice/snow build up.

Thanks

FLM Staff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com
 
H

Holomis International

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2008
754
64
28
www.holomis.com
Ok so we made some more progress yesterday. There are a couple variations on the install that we have had to make a few mods. I think this maybe because of the fact that we are doing this on a 2007 D7.

The first difference between the instructions and our sled was the fuel pressure regulator, on the 07 it is actually easier to remove which is a good thing, then we re-installed the FPR without the lower O ring.

We had a bit of an issue with the oil tank mounting bracket, I believe again this is because the 07 maybe different. We bent all the tabs down on the stock muffler bracket and still couldn't get the plate to fit as it should, so we simply trimmed the plate and then ground down the flange where the turbo spring is suppose to attach to. With a bit of grinding we had the plate fitting as it should!

Thanks

FLM Staff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com

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H

Holomis International

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2008
754
64
28
www.holomis.com
Next we installed the oil cooler and oil tank. Again here we had to do a couple things a bit different. We removed the exhaust protector from the outside fo the belly pan and then had to take an air grinder to open the stock exhaust hole slightly to allow the oil cooler fittings to come up through the hole properly. Again not a big issue at all and these slight adjustments are to be expected when doing an install like this. Then we re-installed the exhaust protector which now becomes the oil cooler protector. When we installed the oil tank we twisted the oil feed line slightly lower just to clear the stock muffler bracket. Also we used some stock heat cloth that we removed from the sled to cover the oil cooler as suggested in the instructions

Thanks

FLM staff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com

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H

Holomis International

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2008
754
64
28
www.holomis.com
We then mounted the oil pump, oil pressure guage and turbo. With the oil pump we looked at several ways to mount it and decided that the simplest cleanest way to mount it was by using the provided velcro, at first we didn't think this would be the best method, but after looking at locations, tight to the bulk head with the velcro was the best solution, also the location we chose allows the oil tubes to be ran very cleanly.

We also took and spun the fitting almost 180 degree's on the turbo for the oil return line. With the placement of the oil pump, we felt turning the fitting and running the oil line tight against the bulk head was a much nicer install. We will be running heat tape to protect this line as a precautionary measure.

Then we installed the turbo and used the supplied springs to attach it.

Finally we installed oil pressure gauge, they recomend using a 1 1/2" hole saw, however we used a 1 3/8" step bit and then with the airgrinder and cylinderical bit we slowly opened the hole up until it was a tight fit to push the gauge through. Once the gauge was installed we then used some of our aircraft sail tape and wrapped it around the back side of the gauge to ensure that it won't come out. This may not be nesecary but we felt that it was a good thing to do. We will be running our oil line and electrical lines after we install our boost gauge so we can run everything together.

Also we waited on installing the fuel pressure regulator until we install our intercooler, we want to be sure that we can see the gauge when it is installed, so this may mean making a new bracket to put a different angle on the FPR.

This is where we got to, we will have more at the end of the day.

Thanks

FLM Staff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com

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H

Holomis International

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2008
754
64
28
www.holomis.com
Hey everyone sorry for the delay, we wanted to get some more photo's and info up sooner, but we have been swamped getting sled decks built and shipped out. Anyways back to the build. We made some more progress, not as much as we would have liked but progress is progress.

We started loosely running the oil return line from the pump to the turbo. Remeber that we switched the fitting around on the turbo so that the line will be ran on the engine side of the turbo. There is going to be a bit more heat from so we decided to run a stainless braided line in those area's. Also we changed the configuration a bit from how the lines were shipped to us, again this is because we wanted to make a bit of a change to how we route the lines.

Next we took the plunge and drilled our 3" hole in the tunnel for the exhaust to exit, we used the supplied paper template and as a second measure we held the exhaust as close as we could to verify that we were at least close to where we needed to be. The 3" hole does allow for a bit of play. We also went a bit further and drilled out a portion of the lower belly pan so we could access the bottom of the stirup vent. We then drilled all the rivets to we could move the stirup vent. There is one rivet that you cannot get to until you cut the stirup vent. It took a bit longer doing it this way but the end result was a clean removal of the stirup vent area.

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H

Holomis International

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2008
754
64
28
www.holomis.com
Next we moved onto cutting and fitting the pipe. We cut it a bit long and that gave us room to grind a bit to get the slight angle correct. We then tacked it with the MIG welder and then finish welded it with the TIG. We then ground the stock exhaust spring tabs off. Then it was off to the paint booth to hit it with some high temp black paint. Once completed we will heat wrap both the pipe and the Silber exhaust.

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H

Holomis International

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2008
754
64
28
www.holomis.com
Onto the throttle bodies. The worst part about the throttle bodies was getting the 2 bolts that hold the injectors in place out, we had one on the allen heads strip and there was nothing we could do, so we tack welded an allen key to the bolt and then were able to remove it.

We then moved onto drilling both the vacum line holes and the intercooler attach holes. Just take your time here and make sure that you use the correct tap. We ended up using a metric tap not the one that was stated in the instructions, maybe we received a different fitting, either way just verify that you are using the correct tap. After everything was drilled and tapped we then blew everything out really well and installed our fittings.

Then we installed the aluminum reinforcement plate and installed the boots back on the engine. The kit requires you to put a spring between the reinforcement plate and the throttle bodies. I'm sure a lot of you do this but for those of you who don't and want to save your knuckles. Take a set of vice grips and some wire and hook it around the end of the spring, this allows for easy installation of the springs and saves some skin on the knuckles.

We then used some stainless tie wire and wired the top of the boots as indicated in the instructions, we used our twist pliers to make a nice tight wire.

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ridgeclimber

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
226
69
28
Maple Ridge B.C.
turbo exhaust wrap

You were saying you are going to wrap your exhaust. Are you going to leave the aluminum heat shield on the pipe and just wrap over top of it? I have been thinking of doing the same but have not started yet. Post some pictures of what you do with the exhaust. Also I would like more pics and info of your front bumper. I have an 08 800 dragon, will that fit?
 
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H

Holomis International

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2008
754
64
28
www.holomis.com
You were saying you are going to wrap your exhaust. Are you going to leave the aluminum heat shield on the pipe and just wrap over top of it? I have been thinking of doing the same but have not started yet. Post some pictures of what you do with the exhaust. Also I would like more pics and info of your front bumper. I have an 08 800 dragon, will that fit?

Hello yes i will be wrapping the entire pipe including the aluminum heat shield. I will post pictures of it

I will post some more photos of the bumper yes it will fit the 08 dragon and is quite a clean simple install process.

Thanks

FLM
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com
 
K

Kestrel2126

Well-known member
Nov 17, 2009
686
267
63
Grand Jct, CO
Just a quick suggestion. I assume you plan on running a fair amount of boost, being as you are using the intercooler. It might be worth pulling the stock shielding off the pipe, and double welding the pipe seams. I have had 2 stock polaris pipes, now split from boost. Seems that there are some of the pipes manufactured with a fold over and then weld at the seam, and some that are just welded edge to edge, along the halves. Really annoying when one blows open on you during a ride. Good luck, you won't be disappointed with the kit when it's done.
 
H

Holomis International

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2008
754
64
28
www.holomis.com
Just a quick suggestion. I assume you plan on running a fair amount of boost, being as you are using the intercooler. It might be worth pulling the stock shielding off the pipe, and double welding the pipe seams. I have had 2 stock polaris pipes, now split from boost. Seems that there are some of the pipes manufactured with a fold over and then weld at the seam, and some that are just welded edge to edge, along the halves. Really annoying when one blows open on you during a ride. Good luck, you won't be disappointed with the kit when it's done.

Thanks for the suggestion we will go ahead and pull off the shielding and then give it a thorough inspection and TIG the seam for extra security.

Thank again

FLM Staff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com
 

ridgeclimber

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
226
69
28
Maple Ridge B.C.
exhaust wrap

Well today's project was to suck out all the old fuel out of the tank and wrap my pipe. I got it all done and back on the sled. Now I read this last post about the pipe splitting. The pipe wrap didn't turn out to bad, it would be a shame to have to remove it all.

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