Tips for getting driven clutch apart

rmscustom · Dec 20, 2014

Stupid helix bolts

MH NOTE: I've merged this thread with a previous one... LOTS of great info here... Diamond Dave has some great input as do others. Read up peeps!

Why do they have to be such a pia? Broke every T27 I had and went to town and found the only one left and broke that one. Heat and Impact driver and got 1 out of 4 loose. Guess drilling them out is the next step. What really pisses me off is one of the clutch gurus on here had it apart last year and you'd think they would be easier to get loose then coming from Polaris which are always tough but I've always got them.
Rant over and I don't even feel better:face-icon-small-dis lol

likkerpig · Dec 20, 2014

I broke 3 of my Torx bits when I decided to give up and take it to the dealer. Cost me 20.00 for them to do it and saved me a lot of cussin and frustration. Best 20.00 ever spent.

pindallout · Dec 20, 2014

I had to heat mine up until they practically fell out........lol.......... I literally had the hand held torch on the screw for 15 minutes with a battery powered hand held torque wrench. If you can get your local dealer to do it for a 20 spot you are ahead of the game. And I think Polaris wants like 6 bucks per bolt if you need to replace them.........lol.

damx · Dec 20, 2014

Buy the snap-on gold heavy duty T27. Mine was $45. Hammer the bit in all the way and pull as hard as you want.

Oregonsledder · Dec 20, 2014

Map gas and the snap on tip and they come right out. I do it all the time. I also use a hand and hammer impact wrench. Works like a charm.

diamonddave · Dec 20, 2014

The fasteners Team uses nowadays are something to be desired. I have found the gold color torx bits from Snap-On will withstand much more force before twisting/and or breaking.

It seems 1 out of every 3 secondaries I work on have broken deflection 1/4"-20 studs.

Pic and link to purchase in Eric's post below. Anybody working on Polaris' need these.

mountainhorse said:
Thanks for the heads up Dave... I just ordered a set of these online... (local SnapOn guy is never around... and I'm small time... free ship). I got an extra T27 replacement insert just in case (FTXB27E2). Tired of the other brand I have breaking.

yammi4ever · Dec 20, 2014

Well now I don't feel so stupid, I am new to this polaris deal, but was getting pretty pissed when I changed my secondary spring LOL. Broke a couple torx bits, finally heated them up with my propane torch and they came out. Screwed a couple of them up and they were around $6 as someone mentioned, ouch. Made me think the yammi clutch was a good deal. And now after reading all the comments about guys breaking primaries, I think i will never pull it LOL.

AndrettiDog · Dec 20, 2014

I had one last year that was so bad we had to use a cut off tool and cut the entire helix off piece by piece. We tried a hammer tool, heating and several bits. I finally bought a good torque set myself.

mountainhorse · Dec 20, 2014

As said above... a good amount of pinpoint heat and a quick pop with an impact gun or impact tool like this...even the cheap brands of impact-tool work ok for infrequent use. Like Dave said... you need to invest in a high quality T27 bit, regardless of the driver.

IMO, the Hand/Hammer impact drivers work the best....a sharp rap with a hammer after a bit of heat and VIOLA!! it's off. No cussin.

.

TRS · Dec 20, 2014

Previous posts are the best process'. Some stubborn ones still will not budge or when the T27 slot is rounded. I take a center punch and drive it in on the outer edge and turn the screw with the center punch and hammer. Screws are toast but the helix is good.

snobyrd · Dec 20, 2014

I pluged welded a nut on the stouburn screws and than use a socket and Rachel, also the heat from the welding going into the screw causes the screw to expand than contract after cooling than should come out easy only thing is the screw is nfg.

rmscustom · Dec 21, 2014

mountainhorse said:
As said above... a good amount of pinpoint heat and a quick pop with an impact gun or impact tool like this...even the cheap brands of impact-tool work ok for infrequent use. Like Dave said... you need to invest in a high quality T27 bit, regardless of the driver.

IMO, the Hand/Hammer impact drivers work the best....a sharp rap with a hammer after a bit of heat and VIOLA!! it's off. No cussin.

.

That's the type of driver I'm using, also tried my 1/4" impact. My biggest problem is not having a really good bit... My only option will be Gearwrench today. I wonder how many they will replace under their limited lifetime warranty today? lol

4Z · Dec 21, 2014

When going back together, try not to give them the "gorilla" when snugging back down. They seem to come out easier later.

Sxrlar · Dec 21, 2014

4Z said:
When going back together, try not to give them the "gorilla" when snugging back down. They seem to come out easier later.

BINGO! Winner winner chicken dinner.

I use a map torch and a hand impact driver like MH has posted above.

mountainhorse · Dec 21, 2014

With these screws... it's basically a one shot deal... you get one chance to get them out before resorting to more drastic measures.

Make sure that the socket of the screw is cleaned out... that you use the heat... and a crisp T27 Bit... and an impact tool.

Once it's rounded off... you are screwed.

Don't have the right stuff??.... Get It.... you'll be glad you did.

A pet peeve of mine is when a service center that you've paid to service your secondary calls you to tell you that the screws in your previously untouched secondary were stuck and they had to cut/drill or destroy your helix to get them out..."Here's your $250 invoice for the work/materials we used". A Good Technician knows, going in, that they need to do this job with care... so you don't have this headache.

.

rmscustom · Dec 21, 2014

Well got 2 out and drilled the heads off the other 2, popped the helix off, slotted what was left with a cut off wheel and turned out with a flat head screwdriver and some more heat.

The comments about not using the gorilla grip is what kinda makes me mad. Had both clutches cleaned, balanced, delrin washered and machined last year by a reputable guy and hadn't touched them since. I've taken apart many "stock" ones without issues but who knows it might not be the shops fault.

Going to be getting a snap on bit for the future.

Any tips putting the screws back in? Maybe a little anti seize on the counter sink?

Anyways all is good now I just gotta source a couple bolts before I leave Tuesday or Wednesday for a 20ish day roadtrip:face-icon-small-ton

TRS · Dec 21, 2014

mountainhorse said:
With these screws... it's basically a one shot deal... you get one chance to get them out before resorting to more drastic measures.

Make sure that the socket of the screw is cleaned out... that you use the heat... and a crisp T27 Bit... and an impact tool.

Once it's rounded off... you are screwed.

Don't have the right stuff??.... Get It.... you'll be glad you did.

A pet peeve of mine is when a service center that you've paid to service your secondary calls you to tell you that the screws in your previously untouched secondary were stuck and they had to cut/drill or destroy your helix to get them out..."Here's your $250 invoice for the work/materials we used". A Good Technician knows, going in, that they need to do this job with care and you don't have this headache.

.

Eric,
You hit the "nail on the head" here.

yammi4ever · Dec 21, 2014

shop manual has them at 13 ft pounds of torque if i remember correctly, and they appear to have locktite on the factory ones (looked red to me wtf). These screws should not come out this hard with only 13 ft pounds, seems there is a design problem and Team should change something to make this easier.

If i have to take apart again i will use heat again, and good bit, but shouldnt be this much stress in taking a ****..ing clutch apart for basic maintenance lol.

my opinion

geo · Dec 21, 2014

45 bucks a bit? Holy moly Snap On hasn't gotten any cheaper lol. Better put my tool box into the will.

Best tool for me has been the stock Team little German built thing cause it goes in the tool kit too. I've only broke one in the 15 plus years of fooling around with this clutch and that was on the stock Poo secondary lol. I was kinda shocked cause I use a 12" cheater bar (piece of tube) on it lots of times. Good thing it has 2 ends lol.
This little tool should come stock in the tool kit but it's obvious that Poo doesn't want you changing angles. I mean only one angle to pick stock and glue on the screws lol.

It's the only tool I tighten with too. 2 finger snug and done in a cross pattern. Resist the thought of another rounder lol. The flat head screw just locks in place and so does the helix.

Some times (like the unnecessary glue-torque on the stock one lol) after trying one or two and it's a no go, just turn on the tig welder, set it for 120, point the tungsten into the center and punch the pedal for a sec until the anodizing starts to quiver and out it spins with everything reusable.

So, I'll add a tig welder to MH's list of making sure you have good tools lol. Especially the first time on the Poo.

Oregonsledder · Dec 21, 2014

I'm amazed that so many find this a difficult issue. Heat them up, melt the locktite, then a couple of blows on an impact driver (like shown above) and they come out easy. You can even use a cheap bit if you get the bolt good and hot. No biggie at all. I started removing them and other similar fasteners years ago and I can say I have never had to drill or grind one out or off.

Tips for getting driven clutch apart

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