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155” vs 163”

A
Feb 11, 2017
38
6
8
Seward, Alaska
155” vs 163”

Going to be going into town and looking at some sleds in a few days. I know there are other threads on this subject but I had some more specific questions. There are several 155” sleds sale and one 163”, all of them have right around 2000 miles, so I’d do a rebuild on whatever one I get. The 163” is posted for $3000 and the 155” are all closer to $4000. I’d prefer the 155”, as I only weigh 150 lbs but I don’t know if it worth the extra price. I’m sure I could get them all to lower their price since nothing is selling here right now. What should I do? I ride somewhat wet snow, I don’t know if this matters or not. Also I’m coming off a 2003 RMK 800.
 

sledhed

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I would go 163, for the little bit of extra flotation and traction, 155 is a little more "fun" but also easier to get stuck. Even more important to me would be to get a 2013 and newer. Polaris went to Fuji cranks (better crank) and thickened up the cylinder skirts to help avoid the skirts cracking from fatigue (not piston, cylinder, where they fit down into the case). Plus the quickdrive makes them a bit more responsive.

But independent of that, the track length question has a lot to do with type of snow you ride in and your riding style. Soft powder, longer track, more set up snow, shorter is fine. Riding style aggressive and / or in tight trees and terrain, shorter can be easier and more fun... I am sure you have heard all this. Keep in mind snowest search function is poor; use google instead with "site:www.snowest.com" appended to your search terms to get all results from snowest...
 
A
Feb 11, 2017
38
6
8
Seward, Alaska
Ended up getting a 2013 163". Got it for $2800 because it has about 100 psi in both cylinders and a slightly bent front bumper. So far I've ordered a Cobra pullcord and handle, Skinz front bumper, and new motor mounts. I'll be ordering RK-Tek pistons soon. Got to take it out for one ride and this sled handles awesome! It's a huge upgrade from my 03. Can't wait for some deep pow next winter!
 

hamlin

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This is totally up to you but maybe do a little research before you just go buy aftermarket pistons.
 

gtwitch

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Read what INDY DAN has to say as well as others about using only stock Polaris pistons and not honing the Cylinders!!! Since I started not honing and I use only stock Polaris pistons or SPI stock replacement pistons, my post upper end overhauls have started lasting over twice as long (2000 to 4000 miles) This is my story and I am sticking to it!!!
gtwitch in wyoming
 
A
Feb 11, 2017
38
6
8
Seward, Alaska
Trust me I've done lots of research on this, but there are so many different opinions on this subject I couldn't decide who was right. It seems people have had good results with the mtntk fix kit, Indy Dan's method, and Rk-Tek. Rk-Tek was the cheapest of these and so that's what I decided to go with. A whole Top end from Indy Specialty (Honing, Pistons, Gaskets, and wrist pin bearings) cost $1200 and I just can't afford that. Rk-Tek pistons along with gaskets and wrist pin bearing only cost about $470. I'm on a pretty tight budget and Rk-Tek pistons do seem to last much longer than stock from what I've read.
 

sledhed

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Depending on your elevation and gauge, 100 PSI may not be "bad". I would do a leakdown test. That will tell you more. You may be throwing money away. And I believe motor mounts were more of an issue on the Axys than the Pro but you didn't say why you thought you needed those... cheap insurance anyway. Check clutch alignment after replacing those mounts.
 

SRXSRULE

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OEM pistons and rings. Thats it, no honing, no kits, no spacers.

Just pull the cylinder, clean everything up, swap pistons and put it back together with new gaskets.

The pair of OEM pistons is about 400 bucks.
 
A
Feb 11, 2017
38
6
8
Seward, Alaska
Thanks guys I have previously read Indy Dan's article but I'll think about the OEM pistons a little more. I'm changing the motor mounts because they are visually worn out and I can lift the engine up and down slightly with my hands. Also I live at sea level, so I really feel 100psi is low and it needs at least pistons and wrings. How do you check clutch alignment? Thanks for all the info guys!
 

05rmksteve

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I personally have had the best luck with OEM style pistons and not honing the cylinder if they look good. Rebuilding a sled at the moment for the 3rd time with rkt wisceo pistons and torque head. It's not my sled anymore and owner has one last set of rkt pistons. Next time it goes down definitely switching to OEM style pistons. I personally will not use wisceo pistons in these sleds. Seems like the wisceo piston kits are more prone to cold seize/4 corner seize.
 
S
Feb 21, 2009
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I personally have had the best luck with OEM style pistons and not honing the cylinder if they look good. Rebuilding a sled at the moment for the 3rd time with rkt wisceo pistons and torque head. It's not my sled anymore and owner has one last set of rkt pistons. Next time it goes down definitely switching to OEM style pistons. I personally will not use wisceo pistons in these sleds. Seems like the wisceo piston kits are more prone to cold seize/4 corner seize.
rtk is not wisco they are custom woossner
 
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