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03 Pro xr to rmk conversion questions

K
Jan 6, 2011
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Hello, I have a 2003 prox 440 race chassis with a trail converted 800. I basically am making this into a rmk type machine. I have riveted onto the bulkhead a 151 tunnel and and placing a 151 rmk skid stretched to a 159 with 2.25 inch track.

This has been quite the learning experience but have enjoyed getting to know my sled. I have a few questions if anyone may have any experience. I wanted to keep the prox bulkhead and taller handlebar position etc so hence the extra work but wanted the longer tunnel and cooling from rmk tunnel etc

I have gotten to putting the motor back in and trying to figure out custom cooling options as the cooling now runs through the foot rails as opposed to the top of the tunnel. From what I can see the best option I have is to hold saw a hole in the bulkhead to run heater hose through in order to route to prox cooler etc as a bit different vs front rmk cooler. I know rmk bulkhead has such a "hole" or space. The other option I see is to flex this hose around clutch to bellypan and over entire motor but don't like this option. Anyone do this before? Advise not too? Suggestions?

Also was looking at geAring around 21/43 giving me 2.05 ratio which seems about right and can keep same chain. Current setup is 24/41 (1.76)which I know is way too high.

Also any suggestions on airbox? I have one off 800 and doesn't fit. From my understanding the only one that will fit is 440 airbox and cut holes to fit carb. This be sufficient enough? Currently just some k&n on there but was thinking box of some sort would be better to get cold air. Thoughts? Suggestions?

Live in mn but going to steam boat springs co in feb and trying to get setup for there, ditch bang some around here. I understand different keys and weights once out west.

Any input or suggestions on project would be greatly appreciated. I am pretty new here and love the forum

Thanks for your time.

Korey

Oh yeah. Had to try my first airbrush and didn't turn out too bad. A fair amount of Autobody experience, just not custom snowmobile assembly :) (couldn't get pic to load from phone but can from my computer later.)
 
B
Nov 26, 2007
1,150
119
63
Salt Lake City
I did this conversion only used a Carl's Cycle 660 so my air box fit. You might look for a Pro XR 800 box. Otherwise just patch and redrill the 440 box for the wider carbs. I used the ProX 600 oil bottle with the fuel pump mounted on it.
I went to a U cooler and was able to run the lines in the stock holes for the tunnel cooler. It has enough cooling area that I eliminated the front cross over cooler. That gave me more track clearance. I would plumb yours by coming out of the left rail cooler into the crossover just like the RMK does. Then out of the crossover and into the bottle and from there into the water pump. Out of the head into the brake and out of the brake into the right rail cooler. Up the rail and across to the left and you are done. Make sure your bottle is at the stock height and you should be fine. If you don't have a cooled brake then just go over the top of it and down into the right cooler. This is a simple circuit and I suggest you make sure you warm it up good before riding. The RMK cooler has 3 lines on the crossover so it mixes warm water with cold coming from the tunnel to prevent cold sieze.

ProX 001.jpg ProX 003.jpg ProX 002.jpg
 
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B
Nov 26, 2007
1,150
119
63
Salt Lake City
You will need to cut a hole under the driven for the left rail cooler hose. Just protect the hose from any sharp edges. 2.05 gearing will be just fine.
Just to clearify, I used a standard 600 RMK air box because I ran Mukuni flat slides. I think a regular 800 Edge box should work if it isn't too wide. You could go with the 600 flatslde box and redrill it.
 
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K
Jan 6, 2011
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I really appreciate the reply. I am going out now to work on the sled. The 800 box is too wide. I have located a 440 box and will try to get tomorrow.

So drilling the hole in bulkhead won't be an issue for strength etc? That is what I was gonna do under the driven and work the hoses with brass fittings and heater hose.

Could you clarify on bottle height? Didn't know this could be an issue. I do have brake cooler as well.

Not sure what u cooler is (guessing what I have). I wanted to use the foot rail and rear rmk coolers as well for increased track clearance like you mentioned.

So how do you like the setup?

I have been procrastinating the finish part here cooling etc but need to get it done. I did notice the 3 on rmk front cooler and was wondering why etc. the cool seize makes sense. I will make sure to warm up good. Maybe put inline temp gauge and warm to certain level?

Thanks again
 
K
Jan 6, 2011
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Not sure if doing this right but had sent you reply to post as well. The description of water flow you mentioned is different than what pro x was setup but sounds a lot easier. I do know only 2 exits vs the 3 in the rmk

I appreciate your reply and help
 

BILTIT

Well-known member
Premium Member
Apr 9, 2011
1,682
482
83
45
Lloydminster, SK
I have plugged the front cooler bypass circuit (3rd outlet) on my 03 800 rmk 151, this helps it run cooler but requires more attention to warm up.
 
K
Jan 6, 2011
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Any special clutching setups that work best for this setup? Such as primary spring? Secondary setup? Maybe stock helix just fine? Thank you
 

BILTIT

Well-known member
Premium Member
Apr 9, 2011
1,682
482
83
45
Lloydminster, SK
I run a SLP Blue/Pink primary spring and QAP-2 dalton adjustable weights. I run twin pipes so i pull 69.5g at 2200ft and 63.3g at 7400ft (8000+rpm at both).

I use a team tied secondary so it will be different than other secondary setups.

My gearing is 21/41 and 8" drivers (9" are stock).


What elevation will you be riding at?
 
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