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2004 F7 Mountain Turbo

I
Jan 4, 2011
760
136
43
Saskatchewan Canada
Here's my custom build on my 2004 F7 firecat Big Bore 800 Aerocharger 53 Turbo, extended to 153" with home made tunnel extension, 2 wheel kit with 8" wheels, 8 tooth drivers, D&D big bore Y-Pipe, Speedwerx Ceramic Pipe, Clutch Kit with titanium primary spring, 50g base adjustable weights, geared, Digitron dual EGT, AEM AFR and Boost, fuel pump pressure, and fuel rail pressure, fuel pressure regulator, titanium A-Arms M series width, fox zero pro shocks valved for hillclimb, 6" handlebar riser, power valve spacers for big bore, and Protaper handlebars. I'm sure there's some i'm missing.

Started out like this with full speedwerx exhaust, clutch kit, geared lower, 141" track 2" lug, fuel reducer.
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Then i blew it up in November of 2010 with catastrophic results...

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extended it to 153" with Mountain Cat Rails, and a home made tunnel extension, and put a D&D Big bore 800 on it.

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Had a trip to Revelstoke June 20, put taller bars on it, and Digitron Dual EGT with a D&D Big bore Y-pipe

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Then she died 7km in on Frisby ridge, the coil decided to go on me on day 1, so we got her out, and then i put on a new coil, and found out a stator backplate bolt had the locktite break and wiggle out and rub on the stator, i replaced the stator, ignition sensor, and flywheel due to scoring, and that only started the itch to build during the summer, so i bought my self a turbo, and it began...

Started out by blacking it out
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Started out just seeing how the turbo fit and the charge tube.
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Then made a 2.5" downpipe out of my truck exhaust, cut on angles, welded it together for bends, and ground everything down to give it a smooth appearance.
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I tack welded with arc welder on the outside, and mig welded the inside
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Had to cut a little piece of the bulkhead to allow the air box to fit.
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Painted the downpipe to prevent rust after i put an O2 bung on
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Another test with the downpipe on this time, the charge tube is too long, needs trimming and re welding
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Lots of wiring for my gauges, and just my attitude box.
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Comparison between my MBRP can i had on it before, and my 2.5" downpipe i made, just needs paint.
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O2 Sensor fits in the bung when the downpipe and brace is installed.
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Painted the downpipe and brace
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Another test fit, welded on spring hangers, and bolted the downpipe to the belly pan with grade 8 3/8" bolts, i dont think it's going to move.
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Wiring mostly done
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Couldn't figure out how to put this on, but here's my fuel pressure regulator.
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Got my gauges all wired up.
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Moved my ECU, and hooked up some boost lines to my turbo
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And finally found the place to mount my fuel pressure regulator, still need to change the fuel rail pressure gauge so it's not so close to the pipe.
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I have two gauges, one for fuel pump pressure, and other for fuel rail pressure(had two gauges, but no plugs haha) need a 90* angle piece to change the line so its not so close to the pipe.
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Got my filter, but debating on where to place it.
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Mounted my Dual EGT with bracket i made
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Mounted Boost and Air Fuel Gauge as well
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New Protaper Handlebars
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Finishing up my titanium arms, but realized that the lower A arm bolt that goes through the spindle is a little bit larger in diameter then diameter of the hole in the A-Arm, so i can't fully put it on yet.
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Still have a few things to do, put my new reeds in, have a new attack 20 track to cut down to 13.5" and straighten the lugs, buy new powder ski's, put on my blow off valve when it comes, same with a new windshield, and have to get a headlight delete kit for venting. Probably more as time goes on.

Really debating on buying a fabtech tunnel, they have one that i can get all powdercoated black, drop brackets, u-cooler, for a little over $1000 plus shipping... I want to but funds are running low for the build.

Let me know what you guys think. I know a lot of people wanted to do this, but i pulled the trigger.
 
I
Jan 4, 2011
760
136
43
Saskatchewan Canada
Stock lower A Arm holes, 0.45", titanium A Arm holes, 0.40"

What should a guy do? I don't want to drill the holes larger, but I don't want to put a smaller bolt in the a arm to make there some play in the bushings in the spindle, should one just buy m series lower a arm bolt, and bushings and throw them in, or just bite the bullet and buy m series spindles?
 
I
Jan 4, 2011
760
136
43
Saskatchewan Canada
Don't know for sure, either Diamond S, or Mountain Magic. They're for an M series, which i'm putting on my firecat. I never knew the M series had thinner bolts going through the A-Arm/Spindles. I'm going to wrap a drill bit in emery cloth and try and take off that .05"
 

mattymac

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Apr 12, 2004
8,819
996
113
Sutter Ca.
good job so far!


A bit of advice would be to double up all your springs on your exhaust pipe. The added backpressure is more prone to "blow out" or "push open" and leak at the joints even on lower boost applications with the aero setups!

All kinds of headaches can arise from this when it happens.
 
I
Jan 4, 2011
760
136
43
Saskatchewan Canada
I was planning on buying the Boondocker turbo exhaust springs. Since i only have 3 springs from the Y-pipe to the pipe i am going to put the BD ones. From the pipe to the turbo it's friggen tight.

Thanks for the heads up!
 
I
Jan 4, 2011
760
136
43
Saskatchewan Canada
She's gotten a little dusty with it being harvest season...
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New Windshield
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One Side Done A-Arms installed, Spring needs black powdercoat...
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Both sides done.
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Here's a better look of the windshield.
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mattymac

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Apr 12, 2004
8,819
996
113
Sutter Ca.
another thing that you might need to check on, the aero turbo's are limited on what they can produce boost level/air flow wise, I dont think a media type filter is the best thing to run on it since it makes the air flow even more limited (restriction). check with OVS I think they make a metal screen type filter for use on the aero setups.
 
I
Jan 4, 2011
760
136
43
Saskatchewan Canada
Thanks for the heads up, if you can see on the top of the filter there is a metal mesh on top which will allow a lot more air flow then the filter itself. I will look into making a metal screen like from a strainer.

Thanks again.
 
I
Jan 4, 2011
760
136
43
Saskatchewan Canada
Update finished all my wiring for handlebars, heated thumb and handle bars, grips, black and white handgaurds, installed fuel return line, cut down the filter a bit to give it more clearance under the hood.

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I
Jan 4, 2011
760
136
43
Saskatchewan Canada
Just a little update on the sled, have tore the engine out, got a speedwerx lightened crank welded up.
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Bought new crank case, and have removed the oil injection, and drilled the case for lubrication.

RkTek Billet head with turbo domes for AV gas at 4k-7k

All new harder engine mounts

Engine has gotten all new bearings for crank, all new seals, and gaskets and have sent both cylinders off to be re-done with the pistons to match them.

Things that need to be done...

BDX Oil Injection Delete Kit is on its way

D&D Crank Saver on its way

Have reeds doubled up for the turbo, have the reeds.

BDX Vented Headlight delete, just need to put it on.

Wiring in a battery to run all my gauges.

Y-pipe sand blasted and put fresh paint.

Put on Simmons Skis and the 07 SnoPro 440 Spindles for extra turning

Change the gearing for the turbo and big bore.
 
I
Jan 4, 2011
760
136
43
Saskatchewan Canada
Got the engine built. When tightening the head bolts down, went in three stages and when i was going to 25ftlbs i was tightening, 17... 18... 19.... 20..... 20..... 20.... but it kept screwing in.... Checked my other bolts. all of them from the cylinder i just got back from replating were all stripping. So i got helicoils and put helicoils in all the holes. Got it back and put the engine together.

Now waiting on the D&D Crank saver to put my engine on the engine plate. then put it in.

Got my Y-pipe sand blasted and i painted it up with high temp primer and paint, baked it in the oven.

Put all the engine together with new seals gaskets, orings. BDX Oil Injection Delete, iridium tip plugs, and so on.

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