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'06 900 steering linkage questions

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High Velocity

Well-known member
Nov 27, 2007
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Hinton, Alberta
I've got fairly significant play in the drag link rod ends. This runs under the engine from the steering post to the right bellcrank. My questions are : 1) Do I absolutely have to remove the engine to change the rod ends or have any of you figured out a trick to change them with the engine in place ? 2) I have not purchased the new parts yet and can't really tell by looking at the old parts in place, so I'm curious - are they installed in a way that even with play in them, they won't pop apart ? If that's the case, I'll leave them until the end of the season. The parts I'm referring to are #'s 9 & 10 in the attached parts diagram.
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POLZIN

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 26, 2007
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Farmington NM
My drag link was loose where it connects to the steering post last year. They cant come apart completly and I do belive you will have to pull the engine to work on it . especially if your problem lies on the fixed(#9) end. Its not easy to work on with the engine out.
 
H

High Velocity

Well-known member
Nov 27, 2007
1,050
497
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Hinton, Alberta
Thanks guys. Ya, I kinda expected that the engine had to come out. Although, I pulled the fuel tank and oil reservoir and was able to get a socket to the rod end with an 18" extension. Could not quite get the angle right to get right onto the nut, though. So, being the stubborn fool I sometimes am, I'll bring a universal socket home from work tomorrow and try again. If I can't do it that way, I may leave it 'til the end of the season since I'm planning on pulling the engine then anyways.
 

POLZIN

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 26, 2007
4,092
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Farmington NM
Thanks guys. Ya, I kinda expected that the engine had to come out. Although, I pulled the fuel tank and oil reservoir and was able to get a socket to the rod end with an 18" extension. Could not quite get the angle right to get right onto the nut, though. So, being the stubborn fool I sometimes am, I'll bring a universal socket home from work tomorrow and try again. If I can't do it that way, I may leave it 'til the end of the season since I'm planning on pulling the engine then anyways.

Dont all 900 owners pull there engine every spring ?I know I do:face-icon-small-coo !If your interested in lightweight billet bell cranks, rodstec at that point I have some designed and should have the ready by summer !
 
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miko700

Well-known member
Dec 16, 2009
177
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28
Washington cascade concrete
Velocity, just so happens guido was giving me some advice a few threads down i have the same situation going on and was asking about yanking the gas tank for access. i would be very! interested in hearing what you come up with in your experimentation and will pass on anything good i figure out. ima pretty mechanically inclined guy but it seems a little daunting to yank the engine but i suppose thats what summers are for. One last question guys is that some sort of "turnbuckle" in there at number 10 and 11 for taking up slack?
 
Last edited:

Super Dave3

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Feb 15, 2003
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Klamath Falls OR
Number nine on your microfiche is easily tightened without removing the engine. I remove the drive clutch, use a 18" extension with a 9/16 socket, 1/2" drive. Have a buddy reach under the engine through the hole where the drive clutch was and hold the heim joint with a 1/2" wrench while you tighten the nut with the ratchet. To tighten # 10 on the fische is a different story, the engine will have to be removed.


Milko700 The turnbuckle you ask about does not take up slack but is used to center the handlebars.
 
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