07 iqr

Pm Brad (1200psi) on here. He has done many of these and he is the one that makes the motor plates and pipes, ect for doing these conversions. He can answere all your questions, and sell you the parts to make it an easy bolt in.

Well even with the plate if your not running the mod steering post and hoop its not a bolt in project! You can either go order the straps, hoop, and mod post from your Polaris dealer and go that route or do some cutting and modify what you already have and run one of Brads plates. I ordered a blank plate from him for my BB swap so I was able to decide where the motor sat in the chassis. You will need to cut out and lower the cross brace, notch the PTO side of your bulkhead to clear the case and if your going to run oil injection you are also going to need to mark and do some cutting on the MAG side to clear the pump.

im doing the same thing right now, i didnt order brads plate nor the 800 straps, i just went and got some 440 straps and just re drilled them and raised the motor inch and a half or something like that, trying to keep as much of the notching to the chassis to a minimal amount

bigboy said:

i already have the straps and the washers should i just call race dept for steering post? im not very good on fabricating ..

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Then you're pretty much SOL unless you're planning on having someone else build you a BB IQr

nine07racing said:

im doing the same thing right now, i didnt order brads plate nor the 800 straps, i just went and got some 440 straps and just re drilled them and raised the motor inch and a half or something like that, trying to keep as much of the notching to the chassis to a minimal amount

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Well yes there is many ways you can go about making the motor fit and I just stated the 2 obvious and easy methods. Any reason in particular your at all worried about cutting into the bulkhead?? If its a durability concern more than anything else rest assured there is people running monster HP W/C motors (265HP+ at sea level) doing more cutting to the bulkhead than what is involved with just a general BB swap and there is no issues. I will agree with powersledder that unless you got deep pockets to buy it all this is not a drop in and go deal and required quite alot of Fab work whether it be the initial mounting (and getting it right!!!!) to the exhaust system you choose to run.

IMO Its well worth the cost and effort to do a BB swap into this chassis and as long as you take your time and do things right the first time you will have a very nice sled in the end

I've done several of these swaps. In fact, I've got one sitting in the garage mid-project right now. I've done the WC1200 as well. Both can be done without cutting the bulkhead.

Where to begin though?

Here's my BEST advice to a guy with little to no fab skills.... Either do one of two things, buy the stuff you need to do a factory swap. i.e. buy the hoop, post and factory straps. BUT, honestly, if you got the straps and the 1.5" spacers... look for a NON valved motor! You can have the motor on factory straps and fit a non valved big block into the chassis. The valves are what interfere with the post and hoop.

If you use a PA plate, your gonna have to cut the bulkhead a little bit for the engine case, and then cut out the cross beam brace to make room for the water pump housing. The PA plate mounts the motor far enough to the left to clear the steering post and low enough to clear the hoop. So again, cut the cross beam and notch the bulkhead. Then buy the straight carb mounting flanges so the carbs clear the jackshaft.

If you have a little skill, my preferred method is use stock straps, torque plate and 1" spacers, then shim motor mounts to fit the correct c to c of clutches. Then cut the hoop and weld in a bent hoop section, and modify the post(or find one cheap). Then the carb situation is easy with filters and you don't have to cut the bulkhead at all.

I didn't get the pic from my phone onto my photobucket account before I went and broke it. But the hoop thing is actually pretty simple. 1" tube, decent wall thickness, put a nice bend in it. Cut stock hoop section out, fit the new one, cut it to fit, then mig it in place.

I cheater welded this one, just laid down a cold mig weld, then came back with a tig torch and made er look professional. grind, paint, done.