belt off set on the new viper

tar · Dec 9, 2014

I was looking through the operating manual [ crazy I know! ]and it's calling for about .60 off set
I put a straight egde on mine and it has about 1/2 inch off set.
there is no way I can even move the clutch in that far.

Is the book wrong or is the clutch that far off?
what do you all think?

I hope this viper didn't inherit the cat belt issues!

Tar

up-high · Dec 9, 2014

.60" is about a half inch.?

stingray719 · Dec 10, 2014

Didn't inherit any issues but Yamaha installed a few. Ditch the stock 8jp belt and put the old tried and true 8DN belt on. All this requires is setting the belt deflection by getting 3 washers from the hardware store and putting them on the three deflection bolts (leave original washers and add 1 of the hardware washers). Belt should have the ribs just above the secondary sheave.

Or, leave the 8jp belt on and burn them up (they are twice the price of 8dn).

turbo800 · Dec 10, 2014

tar said:
I was looking through the operating manual [ crazy I know! ]and it's calling for about .60 off set
I put a straight egde on mine and it has about 1/2 inch off set.
there is no way I can even move the clutch in that far.

Is the book wrong or is the clutch that far off?
what do you all think?

I hope this viper didn't inherit the cat belt issues!

Tar

So yours saying book spec is calling for .600" (almost 5/8") and your measuring 1/2" (.500"). Your saying your clutch needs to move IN ~.100" (1/8")? Does that include removing the shim alignment washers?

turbo800 · Dec 10, 2014

stingray719 said:
Didn't inherit any issues but Yamaha installed a few. Ditch the stock 8jp belt and put the old tried and true 8DN belt on. All this requires is setting the belt deflection by getting 3 washers from the hardware store and putting them on the three deflection bolts (leave original washers and add 1 of the hardware washers). Belt should have the ribs just above the secondary sheave.

Or, leave the 8jp belt on and burn them up (they are twice the price of 8dn).

I've got 87 trail miles on my 8JP belt, its leaving belt dust like crazy. I got a 8DN belt as a spare with my new sled. The guy behind the counter thought I was crazy :der: asking for a Nytro belt for my Viper. I put the 8DN on at the last min to get some break-in miles on it.

tar · Dec 10, 2014

stingray719 said:
Didn't inherit any issues but Yamaha installed a few. Ditch the stock 8jp belt and put the old tried and true 8DN belt on. All this requires is setting the belt deflection by getting 3 washers from the hardware store and putting them on the three deflection bolts (leave original washers and add 1 of the hardware washers). Belt should have the ribs just above the secondary sheave.

Or, leave the 8jp belt on and burn them up (they are twice the price of 8dn).

Ok, thanks new to yamaha clutching.

tar · Dec 10, 2014

turbo800 said:
So yours saying book spec is calling for .600" (almost 5/8") and your measuring 1/2" (.500"). Your saying your clutch needs to move IN ~.100" (1/8")? Does that include removing the shim alignment washers?

I was thinking 60 thousand, you guys are right 0.60 is in the book.
My mistake. I guess I need new glasses:der:
There is one shim between the clutch and the bearing.

Tar

turbo800 · Dec 10, 2014

Your probably thinking the gap spec of .030-.060" thou floating spec of the secondary to bolt shown using feeler gauges.

M5- · Dec 10, 2014

If you need to change the belt deflection in your secondary in order to accommodate the 8DN belt the hardware store is not where to buy the shim washers. The washers are sold in two sizes and are specific to the Yami secondary. Below are the part numbers for the proper washers from Yamaha, they are dirt cheap, everybody should have a bunch in their tool box. Also, the bolts themselves are a wear item and need to be replaced every few thousand miles, they are also cheap. Here are the Yamaha part numbers:

Washer, Plate (T=0.5) UR UN
90201-061H1-00
$1.67

Washer, Plate (T=1.0) UR UN
90201-06431-00
$1.67

and the bolt

Bolt, Flange
90105-06734-00
$1.67

M5

turbo800 · Dec 10, 2014

Speaking of belt adjustment. What a PITA on this chassis! First off, no tool to thread in to the secondary clutch to open it up to take off the belt. Second, the belt guard doesn't come off, its riveted in place. In the owners manual it shows rotating the back sheave and pushing toward the bulkhead to open it up. That didn't work well for me. I was able to push on the helix to get it to open up. Going back on was even worse as the spring wanted to keep pushing to halves together. I had to push on the helix and force the belt down into the secondary to keep it from slamming shut.

Gripe: Secondary is still a button secondary clutch. I thought everyone had moved past these to rollers by now!

BigFish BC · Dec 10, 2014

M5- said:
If you need to change the belt deflection in your secondary in order to accommodate the 8DN belt the hardware store is not where to buy the shim washers. The washers are sold in two sizes and are specific to the Yami secondary. Below are the part numbers for the proper washers from Yamaha, they are dirt cheap, everybody should have a bunch in their tool box. Also, the bolts themselves are a wear item and need to be replaced every few thousand miles, they are also cheap. Here are the Yamaha part numbers:

Washer, Plate (T=0.5) UR UN
90201-061H1-00
$1.67

Washer, Plate (T=1.0) UR UN
90201-06431-00
$1.67

and the bolt

Bolt, Flange
90105-06734-00
$1.67

M5

very cool new tool for belt ajustment

http://www.ospracingparts.com/yamaha-sr-viper-belt-adjuster-with-float/

stingray719 · Dec 10, 2014

M5- said:
If you need to change the belt deflection in your secondary in order to accommodate the 8DN belt the hardware store is not where to buy the shim washers. The washers are sold in two sizes and are specific to the Yami secondary. Below are the part numbers for the proper washers from Yamaha, they are dirt cheap, everybody should have a bunch in their tool box. Also, the bolts themselves are a wear item and need to be replaced every few thousand miles, they are also cheap. Here are the Yamaha part numbers:

Washer, Plate (T=0.5) UR UN
90201-061H1-00
$1.67

Washer, Plate (T=1.0) UR UN
90201-06431-00
$1.67

and the bolt

Bolt, Flange
90105-06734-00
$1.67

M5

I almost wet myself laughing! You buy the washers to space out deflection related to your belt and most belts vary that is why the sheaves are set one time from the factory. But please do explain why hardware store washers are not as good as Yamaha? I did get a giggle though when you said the washers are specific to the Yamaha secondary.

stingray719 · Dec 10, 2014

BigFish BC said:
very cool new tool for belt ajustment

http://www.ospracingparts.com/yamaha-sr-viper-belt-adjuster-with-float/

Yep, Bender and several others have been making those for Yamaha for some time. I tend to replace a belt when it is wore enough to need adjustment of deflection but understand others desire to adjust deflection and get all they can from a belt.

M5- · Dec 10, 2014

turbo800 said:
Speaking of belt adjustment. What a PITA on this chassis! First off, no tool to thread in to the secondary clutch to open it up to take off the belt. Second, the belt guard doesn't come off, its riveted in place. In the owners manual it shows rotating the back sheave and pushing toward the bulkhead to open it up. That didn't work well for me. I was able to push on the helix to get it to open up. Going back on was even worse as the spring wanted to keep pushing to halves together. I had to push on the helix and force the belt down into the secondary to keep it from slamming shut.

Gripe: Secondary is still a button secondary clutch. I thought everyone had moved past these to rollers by now!

There is a trick you can use for opening the secondary on a Yamaha. Its kind of bad etiquette but it works. Lock your park brake then us a 12mm box end on one of the 3 helix bolts to AID in twisting the sheave open. You need to be careful not to just use the wrench as that will torque the helix bolts too much but if you do it slowly and smoothly you won't add any torque to the bolts. Push the belt itself down into the sheaves and work it out slowly. It works well you just need to learn the technique.

Putting on a new belt is extra fun when you pop one on a pull up a chute and the wind is howling and its snowing and your hands are frozen and you are stuck pointing uphill and you need to dig a parking lot and..... . Really you'll love it.

M5

M5- · Dec 10, 2014

stingray719 said:
I almost wet myself laughing! You buy the washers to space out deflection related to your belt and most belts vary that is why the sheaves are set one time from the factory. But please do explain why hardware store washers are not as good as Yamaha? I did get a giggle though when you said the washers are specific to the Yamaha secondary.

I've read your posts for quite some time now and pretty much bit my tongue but if you need this explained to you then I guess that pretty well sums up where you are at and what you really know. Do a little research, you might be surprised what you find. Hardware store. yah good one

M5

turbo800 · Dec 10, 2014

Haha, I really just want a Team Tied now. Is that really too much to ask? Team Industries, you listening???

stingray719 · Dec 10, 2014

M5- said:
I've read your posts for quite some time now and pretty much bit my tongue but if you need this explained to you then I guess that pretty well sums up where you are at and what you really know. Do a little research, you might be surprised what you find. Hardware store. yah good one

M5

Take 3 of the washers described from a hardware store and measure them on a gram scale....I have. No hardening is required for these washers. And the goal is to space the bolts out to accomplish belt deflection which everyone seems to have their own idea of just how much is "correct". Belt deflection is not an exact science as you are changing the deflection for a belt that wears as you run so after a set of miles it has changed and is changing. So once again please explain how this is bad.

M5- · Dec 10, 2014

"Never argue with an idiot. They will only drag you down to their level and beat you with experience"

George Carlin

BigFish BC · Dec 10, 2014

turbo800 said:
Haha, I really just want a Team Tied now. Is that really too much to ask? Team Industries, you listening???

thats why i paid 86$ for the tool makes changing belts & ajustments so easy & cheaper than a team.try changing a belt by yourself with a black alpine turbo spring:face-icon-small-sho.

turbo800 · Dec 10, 2014

BigFish BC said:
very cool new tool for belt ajustment

http://www.ospracingparts.com/yamaha-sr-viper-belt-adjuster-with-float/

$90 is a bit steep for a belt adjuster!

Watching their installation video, it also looks like you loose the "float" action once you tighten the lock collar and apply pressure to open the sheave to adjust deflection.

belt off set on the new viper

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