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Need help with my turbo.....long post. Please help

snowmanx

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Need help with my turbo.....long post. Problem solved:hopefully

All right, here goes, had my sled out for the first ride of the season, I don't know what the problem is, for the couple hours or so it ran like a champ, but it was downhill from there.:mad: I;m runnning a OVS turbo with Garrett 3071, PL box, at 12# of boost running straight 110 race fuel.

It was pulling good, real crisp from bottom to top,,I was pretty happy at first, then on one pull, it just starting cutting out on me t full throttle on a pull, got unstuck, managed to work it out. The engine light starting coming on as well, no pattern, sometimmes flash three times, others 6, and so on. Seemed like it was okay, but shortly after did the same thing, pin it, ad about 2 seconds it would just cut out, bottom and mid range were fine up until that point. On the way out, kept on pinnig it, worked its was out, but then got very blubbery sounding on bottom and midtange, and there was a little lag when you WOT, and that seemed to be fine. All this while and into the next day, engine light continued to flash.

The next day I tried her again, for the first minute or so,it seems to be okay then soame thing. I checked the plugs, they were loose, tighten them up, (color looked good, eletrode was fine, etc) sled was again cold, warmed up, and it seemed like that fixed it again, for about a minute, but then real blubbery sounding in low to mid range, WOT after about 2 seconds it would let loose and be fine,I thought it just had to be worked out. It contined that pattern all up the trail, took a nice pull, on turn around it stalled, coming down hill. All this time it was also difficult to start as well, and wouldn't idle, I had to keep feathering the throttle.

Anyways, after pull, it seemed pretty crisp on low and bottom, but WOT would just, as soon as turbo would kick in the boost needle would spike, then cut out, then surge again, spinking, then cut out, couldn't hardly climb a hill. Did this all the way back t the truck, but also got worst because was sounding blubbery on midrange as well.

No boost leaks that I could see. A/f ratio was good, I actually increase yellow/blue mode to 3-4 at the first day as it seemed to run high. It continued to run good with the one adjustment.

The electrical up front was covered in snow? the PL box, on occasion, would show green/blue at idle? Then engine light continues to flash? I'm not sure if it was in limp mode, didn't seem like it was getting alot of snow on coolers, maybe overheating, but it didn't make a difference in deep snow either.

Got it in the garaged and got everything dried out, now it won't hardly idle at all, sputters, little backfire, then dies. Fuel pressure seems weak. Before all this it was steady at 41#, now, at 1200 RPM, it is down to aobut 25#, if I rev it to 2000rpm it comes up to 40#, but as I remember it it used to hold pretty steady at 41#, even if it did idle down a bit.

Pistons look good, no boost leaks that i can identify, all connections look secure, The check engine light went on once, it flashed once, then 6 fairly quick ones. I checked the vent hose off the ECU, it looks fine.

My Pure logic box lights up but it reads green/blue at idle, the green light is the only one that should be showing up. So I dont' know what's going on there either.

For some reason my A/F gauge isn't lighting up either, don't know what's up with that or whether it is somehow related. I'm going to check the reeds somethime this weekend, I hope, and I'll check everything good for cracks and whatnot.

Any help figuring this out would be greatly appreciated.:confused:

Merry Christmas all!:D
 
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Vertical-Extreme

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how wet did all your electronics get? that is a bit concerning. i would look into moving it or trying to block the snow from coming in somehow. I would change your plugs first, they are cheap. you might as well buy a case or 2, leaded fuel is hard on them. What do you have them gapped to? on my M8 i gap them tighter than stock because of the boost. also check the exhaust donuts at the y pipe and at the turbo. check your plenum connection with the throttle bodies and make sure it is tight. check your power valve cables and make sure they are not broken. the fuel pressure thing is interesting mine is always around 40 at idle. how many miles are on the sled and on the reeds? they are PIA to change if you still have your injection bottle in there. I removed mine for that reason. I would check the other things i mentioned before digging into the reeds.
Hope you get it figured out.
 

KAWGRN

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I think the fuel pump must be failing ,,the pump should be getting the full 12V even at 1200 rpm or the FRP is leaking ,,,but the PL box shouldnt be blinking different colors. do you still have the firecat wiring harness in it???and did you check the ground on the PL box and make shure it is grounded twice once on the engine and on the chassie
 
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bigbull

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Check for stator output and make sure you are not grounding a wire out into the chassis somewhere. Check reed boots for tears. Unplug the box and plug stock injector plugs in to see if that changes to a smooth idle.
BB
 

snowmanx

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I'll check all the things listed.......I was looking at how to get to the reeds and it looks like a PIA, so I'll check these other things first. Just was I didn't want:mad::face-icon-small-fro!!!

Startin to think I wish I would have stuck with getting a Twisted like I originally wanted to. We'll see.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
 

Vertical-Extreme

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I'll check all the things listed.......I was looking at how to get to the reeds and it looks like a PIA, so I'll check these other things first. Just was I didn't want:mad::face-icon-small-fro!!!

Startin to think I wish I would have stuck with getting a Twisted like I originally wanted to. We'll see.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.


if it is a ground or electrical probelm it don't really matter whos kit you have.... you may not hear about it on here but the twisted kits arn't perfect either. none of them are. check your stator and fuel pump.
 
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Snowstar

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Before you start replacing any parts unplug every electrical connector and blow them out with compressed air and use a liberal amount of die electric grease.

Usually when a Dobeck box starts flashing the boost fuel circuit it means the internal MAP sensor is bad and the box needs to be replaced. Be sure it is plumbed before the throttle bodies and doesn't see vacuum, thats what ruins them.
 

KAWGRN

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if it is a ground or electrical probelm it don't really matter whos kit you have.... you may not hear about it on here but the twisted kits arn't perfect either. none of them are. check your stator and fuel pump.

its not whos kit,,, its whos sled!!!! both kits use almost the same components
 
G

Going West

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when it shows green blue at idle it means it is not detecting all the injectors. Theres some trouble shooting info on the additude web site in there instuctions down loads.
 

snowmanx

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Things I've checked.

Well, slowly working away at it, between work, and nursing a badly bruised thigh and a grade 2 MCL tear after falling off a cliff on Monday, I'm slowly getting through my list. One thing for sure, I'm learning more about my turbo.....just didn't want to know more this way! LOL

I changed plugs, gapped them to .020", I checked all turbo connections, donuts are good, plenum connection looks good and is set up before the throttle bodies. Power valve cables look okay.

The PL box no longer shows green/blue, just green now like it is suppose to. However, it is only grounded to the chassis? Only one ground wire coming from the box, are you suggesting that you splice into the ground and connect one to the engine?

I checked the wires coming from the stator, and they all look good as well.

I am in the process of trying to get the throttle bodies off, but need to know how to disconnect the arm from the oil injection and the throttle lever? Also, do I need to remove the oil injection resovoir? So far I don't see any tears in the boots or anything.

I have blow out all of connectors, and when I put it back together I will apply ample amounts of dielectric grease. Also, I will try what bigbull suggested about unplugging the box and plugging in the stock injectors to see how it responds.

I have feeling, that it is either the box, or the fuel pump. Is there any way to check those? I hope I get to the problem shortly.

Thanks for all the input guys.
 

mmsports

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Eletrical

I read you fist and last post and it sound like its not a turbo thing.
It sound like you are having an electrical sled issue. Code 16 is air temp I think not sure But if it ran fine then fell on it face something happened. Wiring some sensor went out cracked a Y pipe. Did you double stack your reads or TDRs ? It is something like that or you have a wire that is grounding or not grounded.
 

mmsports

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I am in the process of trying to get the throttle bodies off, but need to know how to disconnect the arm from the oil injection and the throttle lever? Just slide it off with screw driver


Also, do I need to remove the oil injection resovoir?No do not do that.


So far I don't see any tears in the boots or anything.
 
al... i have been thinking about this alot.

i'm assuming the renegade 110 you are running is from last year...

you said the spark plugs were loose... (sign of detonation.)

you were running the sled at 4-5000ft, it was setup for 9000ft+, it would have been over revving and bouncing off the rev limiter at times i'm guessing? (another reason for better fuel, i ran 116 with a splash of pump at 9k)

you also mentioned you were doubling up another guy up the hill when this happened, more load on the motor... (another reason for better fuel)

did you check the piston edges at all? i'm not saying its not electrical, as thats most likely what it is with the box not blinking the green at idle and your fuel pressure down. with everything you told me before i wouldnt rule out deto on the piston edges.

the sled had at most 300 miles on it, closer to 200, so i'd have a hard time believing its a reed, but if you bounced it off the rev limiter a few times under a heavy load, that is possible. it ran flawless for me last year (many can attest to this) and for you in may and the first couple hours you rode it in revy this year, hopefully its something simple (i think it is, lots can happen with ANY turbo kit, doesnt matter who makes it or builds it).

did you ever run it by travis or gar? i would give them a call and tell them everything leading up to that point of poor running, they might be able to tell you exactly what is happening and save you alot of time chasing gremlins that are not there. the pure logic box is sealed up real well so i wouldnt guess that is bad... how much snow was on the ecu and connectors?

we'll get it figured out and it'll be rockin... dont worry. like i said, i know its a total bummer when you go on a trip and the new buggy acts up. sorry that happened to ya.

also, did you check over all the connectors on the handle bars? i know you had to unhook em to put on the shorter risers... electrical stuff is funny, be sure everything is hooked up properly like others have mentioned.
 

snowmanx

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Hey Brock, ya, I checked the piston edges, they look real good, nice and clean, I have thought about deto, but don't see any other evidence of it. The pistons look really good and the cylinder walls look good as well, as much as I can see through the front of the We were riding gorman, I think it is about 6500 feet give or take.. I did have to add fuel as it was high on the a/f ratio, but like I said, no evidence of it even getting hot.

Surprisingly, it was not bouncing off the rev limiter at all, it was pulling a steady 76-7650 all day, or at least while it was working.

Didn't have any fuel from last year, a freshly opened barrel just 2 weeks ago. I could certainly run 116, but I don't think that is the problem. It's real tough idling now, and doesn't idle well, seems like it's getting too much fuel, idles at about 1300 then will die.

I tried OVS/Garr/Travis and couldn't get a hold of anybody. The ECU and connections were totally covered in snow. Came throught the vents in the front. I have frog skin to put on now. Like I said, I have all the connections off and drying out, blew them out with air, and it's about 110* in my garage. I see the box is sealed up pretty good.

Anyways, once we get this thing going, I have feeling this thing is going to be a MONSTER. Chassis gets up on the snow real quick, and it keeps pulling. Just got to figure out what's going on.
 
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with it idling funny now i'd tend to think a reed... at first it was running ok on the bottom and mid, but crappy on top... usually a reed will act up on the bottom and mid but now i read where you said it is effecting the bottom more.

they were new stock m1000 reeds, single stacked... i've been reading about people double stacking them, maybe a guy needs too? i never have on any of mine.

could have been flaking or cracked and just finally broke off, now you are getting the idle issues.

havent heard any real gains with the TDR's... good things about the double stacking though. i just worry about throttle response doing this?

it does get on top of the snow real fast and stays on top... and that was mine and hobbes very comment as well, it doesnt ever "flatten out" just keeps pulling, we couldnt find a spot open or long enough to really stretch it out at first, finally found some spots in afton where we could test it and i couldnt imagine what anymore boost would feel like!


what happened with the cliff story? that sled has a tendancy to do that if you were on it at the time... yikes!
 
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snowmanx

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Well, I think I may have found the problem.....hope this is all it is? They are bad, but I wouldn't have imagined that those little cracks could cause so much havoc!!!:confused:

Here's the pics, tell me what ya thing, all the problems caused from a few corners broke? Thanks for all the help, I learned alot.

006.jpg
 
N
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Those reeds are bad but not bad enough to run that bad. I have changed reeds like that on my turbo and never even known they were bad because the sled still ran good. I have had similar problems with my pl box, and it has always been a problem of the box getting wet, once i dry it out it all comes back in line. for me when it happens the box won't sense boost, and you can tell because your boost wiil come on but you won't get a blue light on the box. Also check your fuel pressure under boost should be around 64 psi at 12lbs. I had my sled out for the first ride the other day and was getting over 100 psi fuel pressure on boost, ran really bad took a few to figure it out, but remembered that when I ran new line to my fuel regulator i forget to put restrictor in boost line to regulator, probably not your problem but regulators do go bad.
 
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