Suspension set-up
- Thread starter rotaxman
- Start date
FTS as soft as possible to get up on the snow, and adjust the RTS to your liking (Stiffer=brings the front end down, softer=brings the front end up). FS should compress half way when the sled is on its side while your on the sled.
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S
Im about 175 geared up, i have a 155 2.6, my sled was a wheelie machine untill i adjusted the rts to 10 3/4 shox length, i tried 10.5 and shorter and i couldnt keep the skis on the ground if i had to climb a steep short event like a drainage wall. My fts is tight enough just to stay inside the retainer.
Remember the front track shock has a direct relation to how the front end will feel / react as well. Tighter / shorter spring equals more ski lift, more transfer or as some would say "flickable". Loosening / Lengthening equals less ski lift, more ski pressure and less front end lift.
For deep powder, having the rear suspension as loose as you can without bottoming out all the time, tends to be decent set up for most, or at least a starting point.
I will start with the front track shock at a recommended setting and the rear track shock set to my weight and my preference for bottoming out. Remember, you can bottom out once and a while on big stuff. This means your using 95% of the suspension 95% of the time. The guys that crank the rear tight to avoid bottoming out, (unless you are an avid jumper) are really handicapping themselves for deep powder riding.
Once the back is working and you like it, move to the front track shock. Here's where your going to dial the sled into your liking and works for you. Remember, tighter means more ski lift and loosening means less ski lift.
Play with that front shock setting and you will really see how the sled reacts different. Once the front track shock is set then ride and fine tune on the front and rear as needed, and move to the front ski shocks.
Have fun, don't be afraid to make adjustments, just make sure and adjust one thing at a time and have your "zero" or starting point documented, so you can always go right back and start over. If you take your time and get the suspension dialed in for you, the sled is that much more enjoyable and capable!!!
For deep powder, having the rear suspension as loose as you can without bottoming out all the time, tends to be decent set up for most, or at least a starting point.
I will start with the front track shock at a recommended setting and the rear track shock set to my weight and my preference for bottoming out. Remember, you can bottom out once and a while on big stuff. This means your using 95% of the suspension 95% of the time. The guys that crank the rear tight to avoid bottoming out, (unless you are an avid jumper) are really handicapping themselves for deep powder riding.
Once the back is working and you like it, move to the front track shock. Here's where your going to dial the sled into your liking and works for you. Remember, tighter means more ski lift and loosening means less ski lift.
Play with that front shock setting and you will really see how the sled reacts different. Once the front track shock is set then ride and fine tune on the front and rear as needed, and move to the front ski shocks.
Have fun, don't be afraid to make adjustments, just make sure and adjust one thing at a time and have your "zero" or starting point documented, so you can always go right back and start over. If you take your time and get the suspension dialed in for you, the sled is that much more enjoyable and capable!!!
Well said Fat Dog^^^^
But the looser the RTS is, the more SAG you get from that rear suspension--- I have always hated the Rear sag on the polaris- and the Axys is worse by far.. Going to the Raptor TRS didn't help- but made the riding in the deep powder night /day difference.
Stepping it up to the heaver Raptor RTS 230 to see if that will help and not take away performance-or become a pogo stick.
230# RTR
S/C
But the looser the RTS is, the more SAG you get from that rear suspension--- I have always hated the Rear sag on the polaris- and the Axys is worse by far.. Going to the Raptor TRS didn't help- but made the riding in the deep powder night /day difference.
Stepping it up to the heaver Raptor RTS 230 to see if that will help and not take away performance-or become a pogo stick.
230# RTR
S/C
You nailed it.
Just got done with my first Axys RMK and just couldn’t get the thing to do what I felt I wanted it to do, like my 2014 Assault. Gonna do some tweaking but felt like I really had to muscle the thing. Got better after getting used to it but definetly going to take a look at suspension.
Can you provide a little more input as to what it "felt" like or what it was doing?
Thanks for the response.
I guess the way I would explain it is that it seemed like the front end didn't respond to me steering at all. Seemed like I would have to use my body weight to get it to steer. I will say that maybe conditions weren't helping it any as we were in the UP of Michigan and it was a couple feet of really soft powder. I'm conflicted as I don't want to lose the "flickability" of the sled but would like it to have a little better steering when going powerlines/logging roads/tree riding.
Enjoyed the sled and also think I need to just keep working to find how to control it better. Thinking maybe just doing a little adjusting on the front track shot to see if I get it to have a little more pressure on the skis as its set pretty soft now.
I guess the way I would explain it is that it seemed like the front end didn't respond to me steering at all. Seemed like I would have to use my body weight to get it to steer. I will say that maybe conditions weren't helping it any as we were in the UP of Michigan and it was a couple feet of really soft powder. I'm conflicted as I don't want to lose the "flickability" of the sled but would like it to have a little better steering when going powerlines/logging roads/tree riding.
Enjoyed the sled and also think I need to just keep working to find how to control it better. Thinking maybe just doing a little adjusting on the front track shot to see if I get it to have a little more pressure on the skis as its set pretty soft now.
So like has been mentioned many times above.
Tighten rear track spring.
Loosen front track spring.
Small increments are best as these adjustments make a HUGE difference in ski pressure and overall weight transfer (wheelie and traction)
These skids will accommodate whatever handling traits you want.
You only need to adjust it.
Oh yeah in deep snow body weight is how you steer.
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Did you notice the RTS from that kit to rub on the Remote reservoir? Bought kit and then read about it on here before installing, but can't find the post again.. Mine is rubbing a little after a short ride, worried about the long run..
I send all my Shocks to Rodgers Polaris in Cody Wyoming- for complete revalving of my mono tube shocks- Hence I did not go with the remote reservoir style shocks- there was no need.
I cannot give you the information you are looking for - but the Raptor TRS springs don't rub on this style anywhre
I cannot give you the information you are looking for - but the Raptor TRS springs don't rub on this style anywhre
So getting sled dialed in for out West next week and was going to tighten the RTS spring to see if I can get it sit down just a bit more....
How much would be considered a good adjustment? 1 full 360 turn of the wrench at a time?
Do these come with the spanner wrench on the sled? Can't find mine and not sure if it was something the dealer left out on mine by accident.
How much would be considered a good adjustment? 1 full 360 turn of the wrench at a time?
Do these come with the spanner wrench on the sled? Can't find mine and not sure if it was something the dealer left out on mine by accident.
The sled does come with a spanner wrench, it should of been in the bag with the owners manual.
One full turn on the rear shock is not enough. Turn the spring until you've shortened it by about 3/4 of an inch.... that would be a "good" adjustment.
If you tip the sled on its side, this adjustment is easy to do by hand, you dont even need the wrench. A big flat screw driver and taping with a hammer works fine to loose/tighten the jam nut. Just dont go crazy and ding the threads or jam nut.
I should also mention this big of adjustment only applies to the RTS, the FTS on the other hand.... Yes, 1 turn at a time does make a difference!
