At 6-7,000 ft here in Washington, i find the stock clutching works well. Yes it could be improved but i didn't feel the need to.
****in junk cat secondaries
- Thread starter Insaneboltrounder/sjohns
- Start date
I'm with you Summ8RMK, I ride from 5-7,000 over here. Do you know what weight clutch weights are in your sled?
Stock setup from dealer.
I would have to look at weights to see what they are.
I would have to look at weights to see what they are.
IMO the stock clutching is pretty garbage. It isn't as noticable at lower elevation because you have a little more power to make up for a lazy back shift or not fully climbing the belt in the primary. Once you get up around 10-12k ft you really start to notice good or bad clutching. Under 10k ft MDS makes the best setup. But at that elevation I would first gear the sled to 20/49. Even just that gearing makes the factory clutching work better.
What have you tried and run then? Higher gearing shifts better but also makes the clutches run hotter. I dont like the shift with 19/50s and 7 tooth at 10-12k ft but dont mind it on 8 tooth. For comparison my buddies 15 2.6 with 19/50 and 8 tooth had clutches that consistently ran 30-40deg hotter than my 15 with 7 tooth 3" and 19/50. I took multiple readings with a temp gun to verify this. Im gonna run either 20/49 or 21/49 on my 16 with 3" and 7 tooth. My 15 last year always pulled rpms and backshift fine as long as the secondary didnt wear out or was built incorrectly. Didnt like how it upshifted though
i am very happy with my clutch setup, hercules helix, and 911 cover from thunder shift. run the purple spring he sells and drop 4 grams of primary weight. im running a TKI belt drive with 2.33 gears 7 tooth drivers and a 156X3 camo extreme. no belt issues
One thing to add,
When u got my clutch machined the dealer had to take a bunch of weight out of it to balance it.
So one big factor of getting machined is also the balance
When u got my clutch machined the dealer had to take a bunch of weight out of it to balance it.
So one big factor of getting machined is also the balance
On my 13 and 14 I ran 20/49 with the 8 tooth drivers and 2.6. I never glazed or burned a belt or anything with that setup so I have no idea what the belt temp was. I never had a need to check. I also ran the 083 belt all the time as well which IMO was more consistent in terms of rpm. I always ran the stock secondary with MDS weights in the primary below 10k and glide washers. Above 10k I ran stock 66's but with the toe shaved down to make them 64's.
I
Think the 16 will still need machining?
I did like CO and just raised the finish rate on the primary spring with everything else bone stock and have been pleased with the performance at 7-9000ft. I noticed around 600 miles the rpms started dropping a bit on the original 084 belt, so I think once I get to that point again I'll switch over to the cheaper 083 and give her a go.
I can never be nice enough to an 084 belt to not get it too hot and glaze it. Then it always drags down rpm from then on when it gets hot. I only run 083 belts. They are more consistent, especially when riding hard and getting them hot ride after ride. My buddy got 600 miles out of his 084 last year before he glazed it and it started dragging down rpm. Thats the best Ive seen out of one with my riding group
The 16 is 100% different, and until is geared up we will never know for sure.
Once geared up and load the clutches so it pulls then we can start to see but I don't think it's going to be near what we have dealt with in the past.
I run 083 on everything including the 16, the other belts I run faster
Once geared up and load the clutches so it pulls then we can start to see but I don't think it's going to be near what we have dealt with in the past.
I run 083 on everything including the 16, the other belts I run faster
I've read that a few times that the lifespan for the 084 seems to be 500ish miles before performance starts slipping. The fact the 083 is half the cost of the 084 is also a good reason to give the 083 a try.
This discussion on belts has me wondering if maybe I should use a 083 belt right out of the chute on my new 2015 vs using the stock 084 and having to adjust my clutch weights when the 084 starts slipping and or losing RPM.
Or maybe this makes more sense, perhaps I should use the 084 for break in for a couple hundred miles and keep it as my spare belt and then switch over to 083?
Is there much difference in shift speed with the two belts?
I remember on Yamahas back in the day, there was the 89L and the 87X. The 89L (like the 084) was harder and lasted longer but, it would glaze over and spin on the sheaves, causing erratic shift speeds . The 87X was less expensive, softer and would always pull my shift speed down a couple hundred RPM because it was gripping the sheaves much better and leave more belt dust but, I called the 87X my drag racing belt because it allowed the sled to accelerate much harder as well. Does the 083 have similar traits?
Or maybe this makes more sense, perhaps I should use the 084 for break in for a couple hundred miles and keep it as my spare belt and then switch over to 083?
Is there much difference in shift speed with the two belts?
I remember on Yamahas back in the day, there was the 89L and the 87X. The 89L (like the 084) was harder and lasted longer but, it would glaze over and spin on the sheaves, causing erratic shift speeds . The 87X was less expensive, softer and would always pull my shift speed down a couple hundred RPM because it was gripping the sheaves much better and leave more belt dust but, I called the 87X my drag racing belt because it allowed the sled to accelerate much harder as well. Does the 083 have similar traits?
The 083 does leave more dust. The 084 hardly any. I break in an 084 belt on my first ride cause it's usually just a trail ride. Then I either put in my spare or put it in the garage. The 083 belt on my 16 was actually used for a hundred miles or so on my 15 last year. When an 084 belt is new it feels and shifts fine.
Thanks CO 2.0, I will do just that.
It sounds like I should just leave the stock 2015 secondary alone for now.
I do plan on adding MDS weights, glide washers and a Speedwerx H5 spring to the primary before game day.
It sounds like I should just leave the stock 2015 secondary alone for now.
I do plan on adding MDS weights, glide washers and a Speedwerx H5 spring to the primary before game day.
What's the highest elevation you ride?
Maybe 7,000 feet.....usually 4-6,000 feet for the most part.
I rode with 84 one ride and took it off, junk belt just like 060 they tried to use on the m1000.
Sounds good, I will do my break in ride (the first tank with the 100:1 oil in the gas) with the 084 and keep it as a spare. Then I will throw on a 083 from that point forward.
CO 2.0, what was your point about MDS weights only being good to X altitude?
I know they sure work good at 4-6,000 feet.
CO 2.0, what was your point about MDS weights only being good to X altitude?
I know they sure work good at 4-6,000 feet.
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