Power Addiction Head 13.6 8000+ Anyone have any complaints?

head

i ran this head last year at 8-10,000 ft and it worked really good held rpm really well, i run 91 non ethonal fuel and i was having det trouble with it not constantly but it would put me in limp mode a couple times a day, i tried heavier weight but it wouldnt pull it. other than that it was great if it was me i would get 13 -1 and it would work great, i think 13-6 is just a little to much the det sensor is set to safe, thats my .02

tinkerjohnson and others

There is something else in your system causing your troubles because that is not the tested results at 8000ft on a 13.6 Power Addiction head. Most likely clutching but can be any one of several situations. You may want to verify compression and squish to insure that there isn't an issue with the actual domes or head. What is your clutch setup?

People..proven, unarguably outstanding, HIGH performance, from 5500-up with this product in the 13.6 compression version on PUMP 91 even Maverick eth pump 91 which I run daily. We have AN OUTSTANDING CLUTCH SETUP completely tested and proven from 5500 up to 11,000.

Call Carl's Cycle Sales at 208-853-5550 and ask for Chris in Performance. He has MY EXACT SETUP in a complete KIT FORM spec'd for this example on the Polaris 800 application and is ready to provide you with an exceptional performance package with the Power Addiction head application.

(should be about $275 for their complete kit)

IT WORKS...IT"S SIMPLE...IT DOESN"T SMOKE BELTS...YOUR SLED WILL RIP

I am also wanting to convert to the 13-6 heads but I am really concerned if it causes more wear and tear on my motor, and if I go this route what is the best things to do to make my sled run pristine. Like fuel control, what fuel, if there are any add ins to the fuel that will work better. If there is anyone that has put good mileage on them and what issues if any happened?

WARP you didn't read my post? It's my JOB to test various snowmobile products for performance and reliability for this application then REPORT IT BACK TO THE MASSES who don't get the same chances to try these products do to cost, time, and possibly experience or expertise.

If you install and apply this head in the environment that it is designed you will have superior performance to the stock setup currently available on the factory 11 and 12 PRO. This is my endorsement and is exactly what I run on my own personal PRO. When I find something that is exciting and works then I get pretty loud. The exciting part of this deal is how simple and cost effective it is while absolutely WORKING to increase our in field performance.

The stock system is designed to live and perform at sea level and unfortunately we are using the vehicle much higher and in totally different environments.

Here is some experience:

I run the exact same setup and fuel that I did prior to installing the head. You do nothing different. You would not even know it had been installed other than your sled will pull more weight (needs more weight as well) than stock and it seems to eliminate the frustrating bog and 6250 hesitation that so many people are experiencing with the stock head. Obviously your sled is now operating on higher and more appropriate compression for the system so it will make more HP at the lower engagement RPM's...IE it makes your sled feel more snappy off throttle to full on). The dyno testing results also show slight increases in performance in other ranges of the power band over stock. Keep in mind an engine dyno can be manipulated and actual field results are true telling performance story. You really need to add transmission into the variables for the complete performance story. I knew the field tested results prior the engine dyno results from my own personal testing. The dyno results simply solidify my own field experiences and tie some HP torque numbers to what we saw in results. Super interesting to be able to say...this much HP equals this much more go in comparable vehicles. We haven't had that in this field as everyone is deathly afraid of posting HP figures. Once again only a small portion of the actual performance picture but fun and interesting.

also

Mine had the hiccup there as well but hasn't skipped a beat since installing the head. Dyno tests showed surprising results in that exact area and was defined new explanation for what is going on with these sleds. We've all been told there is no bog or hesitation at that RPM but there is (I as always have documented video proof to back up my public statements...kind of like the always on binding Polaris brake situation that almost caused me a political hassle...boy is video a powerful tool) and it NOW APPREARS to do with the loaded condition and the environment in that spot of the fuel spark load exhaust evacuation cycle of the bone stock system at altitude.

hope this is helpful....

also I feel obligated to state:

People please keep in mind in the event that you do experience a mechanical break down in your engine the application of an aftermarket head or any non factory aftermarket part, component, or service will certainly create a challenge for you to get that situation or direct issue warrantied. If this is a concern you should probably consider riding bone stock until the terms of your factory warranty have expired. Once it's all done you can take the training wheels off and enjoy some reliable snappy high altitude performance on the best mountain sled ever built to date.

Was wondering I run at home at about 3200 ft and in the mountains like cooke up past 10000ft, is it still safe to run the 13:1 head. Im pretty sure that I don't want to run the higher head because I don't want any trouble down in the lower elavation. Is the 13:1 head too much compression for 3200?

That is some good information, I didnt read your post because I was typing mine when you posted yours. But thanks for the thoughts. Have you heard of any engines seizing with this head.

cvanag said:

Was wondering I run at home at about 3200 ft and in the mountains like cooke up past 10000ft, is it still safe to run the 13:1 head. Im pretty sure that I don't want to run the higher head because I don't want any trouble down in the lower elavation. Is the 13:1 head too much compression for 3200?

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Just need to run some race gas. I'm going to be running the 13.6:1 head in wyoming and here at home with 50/50 premium/VP110. Just add octane and you'll be fine!

f bomb why dont you run the hps can with the head

Brad's been doing this for a along time. I've been buying heads & parts from him since around 02-03. he's proud of his work & should be. He makes good stuff, but like F bomb said you need to check things he's human. Comp & squish just like your frontend,clutch,drivers,etc, etc I know this for sure been reading this site for well over 10 years. If they didn't work or were a problem or (plain no good) it would be all over snowest! NO HEADLINES there so you figure it out!

plumbpowder said:

f bomb why dont you run the hps can with the head

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When I put a flowmaster muffler on my Chevy PU (just the muffler) I gained 22 hp....not even kidding.

plumbpowder said:

f bomb why dont you run the hps can with the head

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++2

Not that I have a zillion milles or anything, but 200 so far this season and I have had the head on since new. My machine runs like a top and I only run 91 octane. I added 2 grams and am running about 8000-8050 rpms. I unload at about 2500 ft and up to 8000 at the most. Never hit the det sensor so far. MY .02 it is worth the money

glassman are you running the 13.6 head?

In MY testing, on MY particular setup, it did not make MY sled any faster. I advocate spending that first extra money on clutching.

luck.ycangus said:

glassman are you running the 13.6 head?

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Sorry, no. Only the 13.1

06IQRMK said:

So i wanted to clear this up... I in no way was trying to bash on PA and their products like i said I actually HAVE ONE... and have an engine builder that i trust and he recommends them also and says brad makes a great product. That being said... I just was trying to get an idea of what kind of tinkering people are haveing to do. Its an aftermarket part, which means there is inevitably going to be SOME kind of tinkering... Sled as of right now is brand new, and i can deal with having a couple different sizes of weights and/or different springs on hand, but didnt want to have to worry about anything else or constantly going into DET. Would rather ride stock than have to worry about that. But if 99% of the people buying this head can bolt on and ride without any problem. Im definitely going to try it. It does sound like for the most part it has been trouble free.

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My recommendation to you is ride your sled at least the break in period. If your sled is stock with no mods and you run pump gas you will love it in fact. Just like glass man says he is running higher rpm now. Your sled has a break-in period on it run it and then put the head on after it is broke in then you will no how much rpm you gain. Most cases It is all over the board as far as clutching . I make the 2 gram recommendation cause a lot of people have adjusted there factory weights from stock. The stock only turns 78-7900 rpm. When I did my own sled here at 6000 ft it had 62 grams weight in it . I did not adjust it at all. The rpm was at 8100 after the mods never touched a single thing again.

The kinds of issues that I have seen is when people try to compound it with gutting there air box and reeds and so forth. By gutting the air box totally screws everything up with the computer and hits the det all the time. It has nothing to do with my head . They never come out and say these things to you but I find out from friends of friends that is what they have done . This is a simple bolt on product that works jut like f-bomb says . It will work as advertised with a stock motor no p/c needed. If you are going to use a pipe that is great more power!!! But you will need a p/c to control the pipe at that point.

Thanks for the reply

Brad

Brad

Just to be clear Brad, when you say gutting the airbox, do you mean when people remove the air horns from the actual airbox or are you referring to the ducting in the intake? I'm thinking you're talking about the air horns?

Yes that is correct. I know it sucks these sleds are just not like the old one.
Brad