Grips slip when hand warmers are on

mountainhorse said:

Here's my method and I have not had any issues...might be controversial for the glue users. :boxing:

AGAIN... This is MY method and there are plenty of others with different points of view and successful results.

ANY rubber grip has release compound, used in the molding process, residue on it that can and often does allow the grip to slip.

I wash new rubber grips inside/out very well with auto body wax/grease/silicone remover and then rinse them with a good detergent like simple green and then plenty of hot water. let them dry over night.... I do this to the spare sets that I keep on the ready and keep those in a zip lock bag to keep any dust or dirt off.

I then wipe the handlebars and grips with the same wax/grease/silicone remover and then a quick wipe of acetone to remove any remaining residue... using a super clean, lint free rag (i use old refugee linen cloth napkins). Let it sit for half an hour.

Don't touch it again with your bare hands (or anything oily for that matter)

After that is done.. I use low pressure compressed air nozzle to carefully walk the grip onto the bar with NO adhesive, hairspray etc... and leave it there... they don't walk/move on me...

Do NOT inflate and "baloon" the grip during install... or it will be ready for the trash bin.

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you have a compressor with no water/oil remover... this may cause more problems.... if you don't have a good oil/moisture trap on the compressor...buy a cheap plastic inline oil/water trap from an auto store or good body shop supply (photo below) . ... when you are finished with it... keep it in a zip lock bag. Make sure that you drain the compressor tank and make sure you don't have water coming out... moist air is he!! on your air tools as well. If you have an inline oiler...tap into the air before the oiler... This is a big problem when using compressed air if the air itself is contaminating the rubber.

I'm a fan of the Motorguard brand of inline disposable filters. (less than $4 each... buy a few of them.) I have a good wall mounted separator and I still use the inline/disposables.

It is also important that that bars and grips are warm (indoors is best)

Often times adhesives warm up an cause more problems... which is why the RSI stuff is a two part hardening adhesive.

BUT... the big enemies, even if you use glue or safety wire are residue (like oil from your hands) and mold release wax/compound inside the grip from production.

The RSI/ODI grips which are my favorites, should be looked at as an expendable "tool" to hold onto your sled... you should count on replacing ANY good grip at least once during the season if not more ( I go through 3 sets on average).... the stock Polaris grips... last about half the season before they get slick.... I like the RSI grips the best.

ALSO... clean the bars VERY carefully before putting on the grip heaters. If the heaters are not stuck well...neither will the grips.
On the extended heaters... the extension "T" goes on from the bottom of the hook, not over the top.

Safety wire is great IF you know how to do it AND when you "tuck the tail" of the twist back inside the grip, you do not scratch the heater.
But with this method described above... you won't need it.

My 2 cents...:becky:

All the details that I posted above are thrown out the window if you over-inflate the grip and balloon it out... they just wont hold when they are stretched that much... in that case where you overinflated and stretched it out.... you would have to use glue to get it to stay put.


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