I've had the drive shaft out of M8 sleds a number of times but never taken them out of a Proclimb. Looks to me like you can take circlip off brake side(leaving brake disk in place) and remove oil reservoir with the outer cover for chaincase, then remove chain, sprocket, and bearing on drive and then slide shaft to the side and down and out of the tunnel? Any helpful tips for making it easier would be appreciated.
Track and Driver Removal
- Thread starter Deanearl
- Start date
I unbolted the brake caliper. If i remember correctly it splits the caliper and u lose brake fluid. Made it easier to put the drive shaft in. Left the bearing in the chain case, slide the shaft to the clutch side.
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I agree with Runner. I wouldn't split the caliper, just unbolt the assembly in the tunnel. retaining rings on both brake side and the lower sprocket on chaincase and it will slide out.
S
a quality snap ring pliers is a must.
R
I just replaced the track on my 2013 after I stabbed it and tore out some windows. There are some excellent write-ups, the one I thought was most helpful was http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/493-procross-2012/546641-track-swap-step-step-johnmaster.html
M
I changed my 7t drivers to 8t last week. (2016 m8000 153 ltd). Not that confusing or difficult. The track fits back in just fine. It now has 3\8 to1\2 inch clearance from the cooler. If any one is thinking of doing this swap my helpful hints are fallow the above posted link. Its really well done for the first time pro climb track removal\ install. Have good snap ring pliers. Mine are crescents and barley got the job done. I did it by myself except for calling reinforcements it to help get the shaft out of the track and the sled. I just couldn't wrestle it by myself. With two people it took 2 minutes. I did get the new drivers shaft and track back in alone. For me alone taking my time I would say its about 7-8 hr job. (I'm a bit of a slow mechanic on most all things though)
As for performance I rode it 50+ miles yesterday on mostly crusty stuff. Did find one powder hill in the trees. I thought the sled did better getting up on top the snow and building track speed faster. This was the only change I made. No gearing clutching or shock adjustment. I liked it and am glad I did it. Well worth the 100$+ for new drivers.
As for performance I rode it 50+ miles yesterday on mostly crusty stuff. Did find one powder hill in the trees. I thought the sled did better getting up on top the snow and building track speed faster. This was the only change I made. No gearing clutching or shock adjustment. I liked it and am glad I did it. Well worth the 100$+ for new drivers.
I did get mine started here last week, also following the instructions posted on the forum. Came out easy and I pressed on my drivers, now sent it out to a local machinist to put them on a lathe and make sure they are true on the shaft. Hopefully get it back this coming week and get it back together. Then just hoping for a good spring snow storm to dump on the Bighorns. Thanks to all who replied.
I found that if you use a ratchet strap across the running boards, it squeezes the tunnel together to take the tension off of the brake rotor snap ring. (makes it easier to remove the snap ring)
