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Would you buy a 14’ Pro?

B
Dec 14, 2010
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Would you buy a 14’ Pro?

Looking at potentially buying a 2014 Polaris 800 Pro RMK 163” with 1200 miles. Clean title. Owner says clean with no issues. I should be able to get it for under $4k. Also looking at same sled for sell by another guy that has 600 original miles, run 91 oct, ves oil but he wants around 4.6k

My main question is what is the general consensus about the 14’ 800 pros? Reliable? Problematic?

And I would like to run a compression test on the sled but I don’t have a tester and neither does the owners. Do I need to buy a specific type of tester that will screws into the spark plugs holes? Or will any automotive compression tester work?

What PSI should I be looking for?


Anything else specific I should be looking for on the sled?


Thanks all
 

Big10inch

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Again... do not waste your time testing compression. It will not tell you what you need to know. Leak down is the test you need, the testing equipment is pretty cheap really. Snowmobiles have the same size spark plugs as most vehicles. There are generally two sizes, one removes with a 5/8, the other with a 13/16. Most sleds are the larger size. Adapters generally come with the tester kits.

You can adjust the TPS yourself. The worst part is its location, it isn't the easiest to get to. Most say it is better to adjust with a multimeter than the dealers inaccurate "digital wrench" tool. Procedures can be found here with a search.
 
B
Dec 14, 2010
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If you can come up with a little more cash, look for a '16 Axys for $6k.

Thanks but I’ve already stepped my budget up from 2500/3000 that I originally wanted to spend

If the TPS sensor is messed up, will I know as soon as I start the sled and let it run for a while? And other than the TPS sensor, is ther anything else I should be watching for or cautious of when looking at a pro?
 
T
Mar 13, 2019
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Everyone I looked add had steering slop in the three steering bushings. Side to Side and up and down on the handle bars. $150 approx for aftermarket fix



They also all had worn out A arm bushings. A couple bucks each from the dealer or up to $8 aftermarket.


both cheap and easy fixes.


I guess really all the reg issues with a used sled. Worn out sliders, track shape, hand warmers working, etc.


Good luck
 
B
Dec 14, 2010
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Going to go look at the sled with 1200 miles tomorrow. I will certainly have a leak down test preformed if I like the sled.

Any last minute advice or things I should look for?
 
J

jim

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Nov 26, 2007
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I'm not a brand loyal guy...my key priority is that my sled will run each day I go as I don't go much...is valuable time to me. I want reliability with performance. I've had Yamaha, Polaris and AC. If I was looking to spend what you are, I'd look for an older era AC simply based on the reliability of the motor and sled in general. Yes, no argument that the early/mid 2000s sleds varied in capabilities. The AC had the motor, the Polaris the handling (love the sidehill capability) and Ski Doo, IMO, was the pull and go, ride punched all day without tiring you out riding (XM). But depends what you want. The Pro is very suspect at that mileage for motor durability. The AC had a front end that was tiring to ride. The Ski Doo wheelied and washes out on steep sidehills, but is super easy to navigate, and the Pro carves all day through the tight stuff. That all considered, I'd go with an AC simply because they are typically reliable and capable. And if on a budget, and I am, that is my choice. I now have an 09 pump gas AC turbo. It is very reliable aside a powervalve to piston contact (shaved down PVs) and diamond drive bearing. Pull and go. Cheap to keep. So, personal decision depending what you want. What I would want from that era? Pro handling (especially sidehilling), AC motor and Doo gas/oil mileage & ease of turning.
 
M
Feb 7, 2009
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Wabush, Labrador
I'm not a brand loyal guy...my key priority is that my sled will run each day I go as I don't go much...is valuable time to me. I want reliability with performance. I've had Yamaha, Polaris and AC. If I was looking to spend what you are, I'd look for an older era AC simply based on the reliability of the motor and sled in general. Yes, no argument that the early/mid 2000s sleds varied in capabilities. The AC had the motor, the Polaris the handling (love the sidehill capability) and Ski Doo, IMO, was the pull and go, ride punched all day without tiring you out riding (XM). But depends what you want. The Pro is very suspect at that mileage for motor durability. The AC had a front end that was tiring to ride. The Ski Doo wheelied and washes out on steep sidehills, but is super easy to navigate, and the Pro carves all day through the tight stuff. That all considered, I'd go with an AC simply because they are typically reliable and capable. And if on a budget, and I am, that is my choice. I now have an 09 pump gas AC turbo. It is very reliable aside a powervalve to piston contact (shaved down PVs) and diamond drive bearing. Pull and go. Cheap to keep. So, personal decision depending what you want. What I would want from that era? Pro handling (especially sidehilling), AC motor and Doo gas/oil mileage & ease of turning.

Hard to argue with any of that. I've often heard other Polaris guys say they wouldn't own a Polaris without warranty. If you can't work on your own sled, I'd say you better figure it out. Personally, I would buy any brand used. If it turned out to be a turd, just fix it up best you can, or sell it and try to find something else.
 

Big10inch

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Thanks but I’ve already stepped my budget up from 2500/3000 that I originally wanted to spend

If the TPS sensor is messed up, will I know as soon as I start the sled and let it run for a while? And other than the TPS sensor, is ther anything else I should be watching for or cautious of when looking at a pro?

On the TPS... Mine was jacked for quite a while. I used to drop it off Monday and pick it up Friday, ride the weekend and bring it back for them to try again. I had a dealer that refused to accept they messed up the adjustment. They replaced hundreds of dollars worth of parts over months of visits. The third dealer I took it to took 2 tries to get ti right and it was good after that. Never really made the sled unrideable, just an annoyance. It would idle around 1200-1500 rpm, should be about 1800. You will know pretty quick if it is off. Usually wont go into reverse if the idle is that low. No reverse is a typical symptom.
 

Big10inch

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Mar 11, 2018
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I'm not a brand loyal guy...my key priority is that my sled will run each day I go as I don't go much...is valuable time to me. I want reliability with performance. I've had Yamaha, Polaris and AC. If I was looking to spend what you are, I'd look for an older era AC simply based on the reliability of the motor and sled in general. Yes, no argument that the early/mid 2000s sleds varied in capabilities. The AC had the motor, the Polaris the handling (love the sidehill capability) and Ski Doo, IMO, was the pull and go, ride punched all day without tiring you out riding (XM). But depends what you want. The Pro is very suspect at that mileage for motor durability. The AC had a front end that was tiring to ride. The Ski Doo wheelied and washes out on steep sidehills, but is super easy to navigate, and the Pro carves all day through the tight stuff. That all considered, I'd go with an AC simply because they are typically reliable and capable. And if on a budget, and I am, that is my choice. I now have an 09 pump gas AC turbo. It is very reliable aside a powervalve to piston contact (shaved down PVs) and diamond drive bearing. Pull and go. Cheap to keep. So, personal decision depending what you want. What I would want from that era? Pro handling (especially sidehilling), AC motor and Doo gas/oil mileage & ease of turning.


Well the initial recommendation for bowhunter was a 10-11 M8 Cat for exactly the reasons you mention. He started a thread down in general snowmobiling looking for a $3k sled. I have been pushing him to up the budget a little and here we are. Hard to beat one of those old M8s, a little wide compared to a Pro but with a much better motor, more power and better reliability for sure but... the Polaris chassis is pretty sweet!
 

NHRoadking

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Do you have any information on how the sled has been serviced? By the owner or a dealer?
 
J

jim

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Nov 26, 2007
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Well the initial recommendation for bowhunter was a 10-11 M8 Cat for exactly the reasons you mention.

Those are definitely the 2 best years for the M8 series...came with the powerclaw stock, motor actually had a stock exhaust that worked and clutching was pretty solid stock. Diamond drive the only issue. But, yeah, motors were great box stock and pretty capable chassis. I'd love to get a narrow front end kit for my M8, but not worth the $$$ when I don't ride much.
 

sledhed

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IMHO, and based on personal experience, 2013 and newer Pros are much better reliability than their older counterparts. Thicker cylinder skirts going down into the cases (less likely to fatigue) and Fuji crankshafts instead of Mape. I would have no hesitation to buy either one of those sleds at that mileage. But it is always good to be able to work on your own sled in any case since they are no longer under warranty. Top ends are pretty easy to do when the time comes, but neither one of those should need one yet, but that also depends on the prior owner and their riding style...
 
B
Dec 14, 2010
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Thanks for the info guys. Took a look at the one with 1200 miles yesterday but between the no coolant in the reservoir, a few missing lugs, badly rusted pipe and scratches on the plastics I decided to pass.

I will look at the 600 mile one some time this week. I’m also looking into 13-15’ arctic cats and then placing the 16’+ front suspension on it
 

Snowman.PRO.

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MN
Buddy has a 14 Pro. Has to be over 2200 miles by now. I think he put the turbo Silber on at around 1400 miles?? Point is, its been a great sled. Top end is the original one, never opened up. If the price is right, I'd buy one if I knew the owner had the oil pump turned up and let it warm up. If its real low miles then you can do all that yourself. And do the Vented oil cap too.Buddy has done all that. Even better if he added a bit of oil into the fuel.
 
B
Dec 14, 2010
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Buddy has a 14 Pro. Has to be over 2200 miles by now. I think he put the turbo Silber on at around 1400 miles?? Point is, its been a great sled. Top end is the original one, never opened up. If the price is right, I'd buy one if I knew the owner had the oil pump turned up and let it warm up. If its real low miles then you can do all that yourself. And do the Vented oil cap too.Buddy has done all that. Even better if he added a bit of oil into the fuel.

Think I may buy that 14 pro 800 with 600 miles(actually 700 because he owner went on a few more rides this spring). Talked to the guy in person for a good 30 min before starting the sled and he seemed to be really legit. Always 91 Oct ethanol free, VES oil and owned it since 100 miles. Talked him down to right at 4K.

Taking it to do a compression test at a Polaris dealer. But I wanted to follow up with you on a few pictures. The tunnel is straight but there are a few small waves at the very end. Normal? Picture attached

The track seems slightly ragged in a few spots. Is that normal for 600 miles? Pictures attached

The sled has a coolant filter (that all the owner and I could honk it was) on from the original owner. Picture attached

And the sled is throwing an E173 engine code which is the exhaust code and reading on the forums it says it typically goes away after operating temp has been met. But the owner said he would have the polaris delaer fix it tomorrow when they do the compression test.

A81EC365-81B1-473B-8B1E-57A1445E63DE.jpeg E2E24DA6-5858-4BD4-9883-80D45B3C8912.jpeg 16E1C4AA-541E-4CA6-A116-B1CE5FDDA4A0.jpeg D39F7787-3DE9-4874-81C2-C9F0E23952BE.jpeg 8AFE3F4F-C1AE-4C9C-981A-536781CF5A60.jpeg 8783880C-9130-4C1E-A878-518B6E5F4CAA.jpeg
 

Big10inch

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Seems like a good price on a nice sled. I think you will like the Pro and $4k for just about any 700 mile sled is pretty decent. Go for it if it checks out.
 
B
Dec 14, 2010
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Does anyone have any thoughts on that coolant filter? It almost looks closer to an aftermarket fuel filter...?

Tracker are and tunnel bumps look normal?
 
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