Tight footwell solution?

Bm fab running boards raises the hoop considerably

I did keep my Everett Ankle savers off of my 11 PRO when it went away so I will see if I want to put them on my new AXYS 800. Probably will as the ankle saver was the only thing that kept my foot from catching and I had at least 4 close calls and a couple of them could have been bad (trip to hospital almost). I have size 7 boots and this seems to be a more prevalent issue the smaller the feet/boot IMO.
gtwitch in wyoming

Brian at B&M fab was going to make improved footwell loops as he did on the 2011-2015 pro's
He was not doing them as of last year so I bought his boards-
The improvement that the old pro hoops made were the most economical answer, might give him a call and see.

I have seen the toe hold mod, by bending the hoops, with a bottle jack made a big enough difference for some folks.

I bent mine up & it was enough of a improvement for me. Still cant believe Polaris has kept this design as it’s awful. I would gladly pay extra for adjustable toe holds.

Bending works great. . . The right one did crack a Lil when I did it but 1100 miles on it now an no issues

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Nice calendar.

Snopro_69 said:

Bending works great. . . The right one did crack a Lil when I did it but 1100 miles on it now an no issues

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Click to expand...

Snopro_69 said:

Bending works great. . . The right one did crack a Lil ( like the calendar )when I did it but 1100 miles on it now an no issues

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Click to expand...

Butt that calendar :face-icon-small-hap

LOL

bend them up. This is my 17, I use a porta-power to slowly bend them up. I place a 2ft 2x4 on the running board to press off of. Works great, and much easier to control and not crack them when doing it this way.

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<hr size="1" style="color: rgb(232, 232, 232); background-color: rgb(232, 232, 232);"><!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message --> so I started in to this with a 2x4 and like it was posted above without a heavy guy on the sled you are just yarding it around like a rag doll! so I decided to do it a little more methodic. I decided before I proceeded that I was going to lift the toe loop until it started to tear just to figure out how far a guy could lift it without needing to weld or just junk the loop. as you can see I propped a 2x2 under the rail just to help relieve some of the stress on the rail, I cut it long to give some upward pressure. slid a small jack from a old car in the toe loop and proceeded to spread. the first loop I heated with a torch to about 120-130 degrease just enough to be pretty worm but not hot as to try to not temper or harden the aluminum. the other side I did at room temp. I was able to lift the heated side to about 4 3/4-4 7/8 before it tore and when it did it just went leaving inner and outer with no kind of structural integrity left. on the cold side it only made it to 4 3/8- 4 1/2 before the same damage occurred. I am a poor aluminum welder {at best} but do have a welder that welds aluminum. managed to weld it back together good enough that I can jump on either side and get no movement. so if you choose to lift those hooks heat until they are warm and don't lift them more than more than 4 3/4 measured off the rails on a square to the bottom of the toe hook unless you plain on welding or going without the hooks. I pushed mine up until I hade 5in just because well they were all ready tore but it did seem to have plenty of room to not hook your boot in at 4 3/4. just wanted to post this in hopes it would aid someone in not getting hurt or loosing their seasons riding! good luck to all on their way to recovery!


sorry the picts are bad! toe hook on the right it stock and the one with the jack in it is at about 4 3/4 to 4 7/8 and the one with the spool gun on the rail is at 5in
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posted this last year it was good enough for me. lots of talk on this subject in a post Poll: My running-board foot-loop injury: Who else has had their foot stuck in the footwell? ( 1 2 3 ... Last Page) TRS <!-- ADDED BY BRIAN FOR DATE --> - 04-17-2016

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