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Broken Motor Mount

8

800dragon_rmk

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Dec 3, 2007
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So guys i have 79 miles on my pro assault and i love the sled. so heres the story- i got stuck and me and 2 buddys lifted the sled out and when when we where moving it i heard something rattling around inside. i found a broken off bolt. upon further investigation i found it to be the motor mount that goes in behind the Can side of the sled. anyways im taking it to my local polaris dealer and ill let you guys know how it turns out. by the way the sled has never been rolled or hit anything at all.
 

Reg2view

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Three on stock sleds, same bolt - it's a problem. Either design, bolt spec/mfg, or install. They'll be more. Something to watch for, might be worth putting some high temp on the bolt to at least keep it from blowing out and taking out a primary. Thanks for sharing.
 
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IceCap

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Nov 27, 2007
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I wonder how long before there is a "recall" for motor mount bolts....... I will be watching mine every ride.
 

thefullmonte

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Nov 26, 2007
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I'm guessing that the increased ridgidity of this chassis is going to transfer more force directly to the mounts etc. The IQ had some similar issues, but it was just the use of poor quality bolts. Does anyone make any kind of a torque stop for this chassis yet? I would start by giving a call to SLP.
 

AndrettiDog

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So the bolts are shearing off? Or are they coming "undone"? Guess I'll have to look at mine each ride.
 

Reg2view

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Anyone have a picture of which bolt location to watch out for?

Rob

Rear mag side from the three reports I've heard about. The bolt spec would be easiest for them to check. Install would be field work, and design a whole 'nuther issue.
 
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Arctic Thunder

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Dec 7, 2001
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I had the same problem. 120 miles wiped out the clutch. The one right behind the can. I hope its not going to be a problem

Is this a long bolt that runs across the sled? Kind of confusing to think a motor mount bolt on the Can side is damaging the clutches on the clutch side. What's the deal?

(I have a couple friends with the pro and wanted to let them know.)

Thunder
 

4Z

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FTX says they are going to post a Youtube vid of the install of their motor plate this weekend.

Clicky

plateandboards012.jpg
 

mountainhorse

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Copied from another thread... Different "theories"... I think that Norway makes a good point (below) with the 12.9 bolts being more brittle.

Mountainhorse:
"Stronger" is a relative term that can apply to many different aspects of a fastener design.
Hardeness or toughness may be better terms here.

Grade 8 bolts would be more similar to a Class 10.9 fastener.

From what I can tell... The Socket Head Cap screws that Polaris is using are a very high grade Metric, Class 12.9 Alloy Steel (self locking)... they have a tensile strength in excess of 170,000 psi with a Rockwell hardness of 35 - 45.... It is a pretty high quality bolt.

The titanium high strength Race fasteners that I have seen used are made from Ti6Al-4VA... it's most attractive property however is its lightwight... it IS strong... but has similar yield and tensile strength to the Class 12.9 Alloy steel. IMO, a Ti replacement fastener of the same dimensions will fail as well.

In my opinion…. to make the stock mounting system stronger... it would be better to use a cap screw with a longer unthreaded section that would insert further into the motor mount strap… or all the way through and Install a Stainless “TIME-SERT” into the far end.

The clamping aspects of this fastener, IMO, are much less important than the locating aspects of this fastener. The bolts do NOT seem to be failing in tension, but in shear.

From what I can tell from others photos (I don’t have a motor mount/strap/cap-screw in my hands) the bolts are failing from impact shear … in the treaded section of the bolt, which is exposed to the shear loads the engine as it tries to rotate, as a unit around the axis of the crank, in the mounts. The treaded section of the bolt starts inside the mount rather than inside the strap. The failures seem to be happening along the grain boundary of the threads at the shear plane… ie the bolt is shearing in the weaker threaded section rather than a stronger unthreaded shoulder section of the bolt.

006.jpg


ARP makes some very high grade Cap Screws with reduced wrenching 12 point heads... their "ARP 300" stainless bolts are very tough, very high quality fasteners with rolled threads and consistent metallurgy. They are rated at 170,000 psi and have a Rockwell hardness of around 45.

Rather than finding a custom fastener, a longer ARP bolt with a longer unthreaded section could be used and the threads could be trimmed at the end. I've used these same type of bolts from ARP to fix the problematic front PTO mount bolt on the turbo 2008-2010 800cfi Dragons. The strap would have have the threaded section bored (partial depth) to accommodate, snugly, the larger diameter of the unthreaded section.

Here is a crude cross-section of what I'm talking about.

Again, this is just my Opinion.

attachment.php


Under the extreme loads of turbos… stronger bolts will not keep the motor from twisting in the sled… that is where the additional mounts in the FTX arrangement will come in handy with the huge twisting loads that a turbo engine can put on the mounting system. Twisting moves the clutches out of alignment… Clutches that are not aligned make more heat, shift poorly and waste power.

Also, under the extreme forces produced by a turbo engine, the plate will help to isolate & stabilize the crankcase from the twisting forces that are not isolated by the two, separate, mounting straps.

I don't think this will be a problem on the non-turbo sleds... but time will tell.
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I have a feeling that these motor mount/plate combos from FTX/Power-Addiction will be popular among the boosted crowd!!

plateandboards013.jpg


projectpromotorplateandturbomockup031.jpg


plateandboards012.jpg


Norway:
Shain, I've not seen a grade 8 in metric. Metric usually comes in classes like 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 etc.

Can you tell our readers where to get their hands on the bolt that you replaced?

Thanks in advance.

On metric bolts, we had one of our tracked Hagglund vehicles (big thing with 5.9 Cummins and midsection steering) literally come apart. The front part started to "walk away" from the rear. 24 bolts had finally given up since we abuse them a lot.

My point; they use metric 10.9 bolts that was hard to find so we thought of going to "the next level", 12.9

Manufacturer of vehicle says no good, will break sooner. MH nailed it, what is stronger?? The 12.9 is harder and might have even higher tensile strength, but would not be "flexible" enough in this aplication!!

So from this my thought would be 10.9 bolts over 8.8, but not 12.9.


RS
 
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