So in addition to needing a new motor at under 1000 miles, my primary had a bad roller about the same time. I brought the sled back right after the motor job and they told me it was the clutch and wanted ~$650 for the job. I just do not think that is right. I bought an expensive machine new from a dealer and paid extra for the promotional extended warranty. I did the work myself for the $250 worth of parts it looked like it needed. I thought I was very careful but just 200 miles later it is apparently in need of the same $650 rebuild, and that is the claimed reason the sled hasn't made over 7200 rpm since the new motor went in.
I took it back to them this time thinking I had the clutch fixed including a new spring and belt. The dealer told Polaris that I had worked on it so definitely no coverage. Again, what a crock. Because I don't feel like being raped by your dealer I do some work and now for sure it is my fault? I have been successfully wrenching on things with motors for decades. I think it should have been done the first time because it wore out prematurely. Are we now accepting 1000 mile motors and clutches that crap out as wear items? that is a pretty pathetic standard for a $13,000 machine with an extended warranty that Polaris can't even find? The dealer says they don't know who the warranty company is either? Well who paid for the motor job guys? Neither side knows?
It is just a freak show. I told them to button it up I would come and get it and make other arrangements. I go out of my way to spend money at this dealer. I recommended my buddy to them who bought a new sled from them. This is how they helped me out. I get it, by the book right, fair enough. Do not expect me back nor should you expect positive referrals.
So with a quick search I found a new primary for $483. All is should need is the spring and the weights fitted right?. I could get new weights if needed, and the spring only has 200 miles on it. Any tips or tricks to getting a new one set up and working?
I have ZERO faith that this will restore the sleds performance. Pretty sure it has several other issues yet unresolved. It needs done though, obviously. The dealer made no offer the go with the new one for less, probably couldn't get full mark up that way I guess.
Seems like the dealer and the manufacturer have both forgotten that the money only comes from the customer. Customers have lots of other choices in the market. Lose one or two and you will be fine. Make a habit if this like I think Polaris has and best of luck.
Anyway, end rant. Tips on fixing my clutch issue?
I get it. You are understandably frustrated. But, let's review.
Engine went down, Polaris replaced. You are bummed that motor went down (who wouldn't be), but stoked that Polaris put in a new motor.
When you got that motor back, it never made peak RPM. My guess is the E-VES cable was broken then but nobody noticed. The tech should have noticed--but truth be told-- I didn't start doing push pull tests on E-VES motors until I came across my first broken one on a customers turbo with 1700 miles. That is not on Polaris, they warranteed your motor-- your dealer flubbed the install.
Flat rollers on clutch. Everyone of these I have come across when sled was still under warranty was taken care of. Your dealer decided they didn't want to open a warranty case-- your dealer decided that it wasn't warranty. That is on your dealer.
You bought new/used motor mounts for $180??? All you need is the 4 rubber isolators and the torque link mount (the one that mounts on the cylinder). Those five parts retail for under $100 online.
Would be interesting to put your "sacked out" rebuilt clutch on your motor with a new E-VES cable and new motor rubber isolators and see what you get for RPM.
I totally understand that you figured you paid $13,000 for a snowmobile and it should run flawlessly. Unfortunately, it doesnt work that way-- especially when you ride them like they are intended--hard. I've read your posts where you are crucifying Polaris, you are definitely entitled to your opinion. Your problem, albeit frustrating, is rectifiable. $36 E-VES cable,$100 of rubber isolators and you are back in business. I actually keep spares of all those parts on my shelves for personal and customer use. Be glad you don't own an 850 that eats $200 belts every 200 miles and no one knows why.
According to your post, " I have been successfully wrenching on things with motors for decades"---- That's good. You have a huge advantage over a lot of people on this forum. That is how you are going to fix this problem. Would it be better if you could just drop your sled off at your dealer and they would fix it? Of course, but it sounds like your dealer may have have a competency problem. You have two choices: Rely on your dealer that leads to frustration and missed riding, or get in their and do it yourself.
My suggestion, install E-VES cable (don't forget to do E-VES relearn with Digital Wrench) make sure you have smooth movement and can feel all three positons-- total movement should be 16-18mm, install the rubber isolators (don't forget to re-check clutch alignment after new rubber install), check the weight bushings, and install weight shims to remove sideplay.
Replace the 5 motor rubbers at no more than 1,000 mi intervals. Check the clutch weight bushings at 500 mile intervals and replace the primary spring at the same time. Keep a close eye on belt deflection-- the 1183 belts tend to stretch beyond your ability to adjust the deflection correctly.
We have three Axys sleds here. They have 2400 mi, 2000 mi, 1600 mi. I've got a customer with 2200 Turbo miles on an SKS with the original top end (he was the one with the broken E-VES cable)
Mentally reset your brain. Leave the "F- this" "F-that", "F-Polaris", "F my dealer" at home. Go ride after doing the above mentioned procedures and report back. If you have any questions, don't be afraid to reach out. I sent you a PM with my phone number in case you have any other questions.
