Electrical on/off defect

whoisthatguy

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• Jan 1, 2017

• #1

Does anybody happen to know what electrical problem prevents both the kill switch and/or the key switch from being able to turn the engine off once it gets good and warm? When it is cold and for the first 10 minutes, both switches work. It is not in the CDI box because I just changed that out and there was no change in the problem.

 

Last edited: Jan 1, 2017

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peaceofwork

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• Jan 2, 2017

• #2

Have you confirmed that the back side of the key switch indeed has the plug block on solid and tight?

 

whoisthatguy

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• Jan 2, 2017

• #3

peaceofwork said:

Have you confirmed that the back side of the key switch indeed has the plug block on solid and tight?

Click to expand...

I have checked it several times. Since the kill switch will not work when the engine gets warmed up as well, the problem is not likely having to do with the key switch. Furthermore, the key switch forms a connection that completes the circuit that allows juice to the spark plugs. If that key switch plug was disconnected, the engine would not run. Right now I am focusing on the problem being either in the wire harness or the stator. I am replacing one at a time until the problem is fixed.

 

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peaceofwork

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• Jan 2, 2017

• #4

Better test that theory, I think my sled runs with it unplugged I will test it tomorrow and tell you the result

 

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baden

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• Jan 12, 2017

• #5

whoisthatguy said:

I have checked it several times. Since the kill switch will not work when the engine gets warmed up as well, the problem is not likely having to do with the key switch. Furthermore, the key switch forms a connection that completes the circuit that allows juice to the spark plugs. If that key switch plug was disconnected, the engine would not run. Right now I am focusing on the problem being either in the wire harness or the stator. I am replacing one at a time until the problem is fixed.

Click to expand...

The only two wires from the key that would affect the the plugs would be the BLK and BRN wires; the same wires that the kill switch are tied into. The other wires for the key switch go to a starter (if you have one) or controlling the premium function for the CDI/Tach.

See the link below for a schematic (if you don't already have one). I have a 98 and an 02 and both run without the switch assemblies, just the kill switch. The link below also has the OHM readings for the stator as well if you plan on testing it.

http://pi54.com/corp/manuals/Owners/9917058r01.pdf

 

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Woodsrider

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• Jan 13, 2017

• #6

I am betting you have lost the ground connection somewhere (brown wire).

 

whoisthatguy

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• Jan 15, 2017

• #7

It turned out to be the temperature sensor on top of the cylinder heads and possibly pulling apart all of the the connections between the handlebars and the engine, and sanding them where corrosion was apparent. There were other problems than what I listed and these two repairs was all I did to fix all the current problems.