just bought a 2010 m8, haven't ridden it yet.
will i notice much better handling with this sled over the old 05 m7?
thanks
will i notice much better handling with this sled over the old 05 m7?
thanks
new to me 2010 m8 153, from 2005 m7 153?
- Thread starter skibob1
- Start date
What shock package does the m8 have? Sno pro, standard? It will be much better in lots of other aspects; more power, better clutching, elec reverse is nice, better gauges(i recommend getting the Next stage gauge reflash), running boards/tail section better. you will like the change
Thanks snow pro fox flot shocks
M
Fox Floats 1
The shocks ride rough on the '10s. I had mine revalved to the '11 specs & added a set of HyGear auxiliary air canisters, like Evol chambers for a much better adjustable ride. Changing out the shocks for premium ones is also an option,albeit more expensive. I also swapped out the 2.25 Power-Claw track for a 2.6 Power-Claw. Go thru your clutches & make sure the Diamond-drive has the updated bearing; Ride that thing, a great sled, I still have mine & enjoy it especially on low snow days 'cause its got a rear tunnel cooler; rather than taking out my '17 Mountain Cat & running the scratchers and watching the temp gauge all day!
The shocks ride rough on the '10s. I had mine revalved to the '11 specs & added a set of HyGear auxiliary air canisters, like Evol chambers for a much better adjustable ride. Changing out the shocks for premium ones is also an option,albeit more expensive. I also swapped out the 2.25 Power-Claw track for a 2.6 Power-Claw. Go thru your clutches & make sure the Diamond-drive has the updated bearing; Ride that thing, a great sled, I still have mine & enjoy it especially on low snow days 'cause its got a rear tunnel cooler; rather than taking out my '17 Mountain Cat & running the scratchers and watching the temp gauge all day!
My 05 M7 162: Has a head, full single exhaust (y to can), trimmed fueling, oil pump turned down, good clutching, 10.4 secondary sheaves, rear float skid swap, shock valving, 2.5 Camoplast track (old design with serrated lugs), boss seat, full 09 rear tunnel conversion, and always kept up on maintenance and wear parts so it's not a clapped out junker or anything.
Dads 2011 M8 153 Limited: All stock except a Skinz can. I spent almost a full season on this sled when he couldn't ride it.
Given the choice I'd ride that 2011 hands down. The M7 is a tractor and seems to keep going through a lot of stuff you think it wouldn't, but the little bit of extra HP gives the M8 a little more track speed that allows it to hold the front end up and feels more maneuverable. Re-entry type stuff is not happening with the M7 no matter how hard I try and the M8 will do it. A little of that might be the track length, but even in deep snow the M8 is more capable. Chassis on the M8 is lighter, but the extra motor weight from the 7 to the 8 platform probably makes it a wash.
Dads 2011 M8 153 Limited: All stock except a Skinz can. I spent almost a full season on this sled when he couldn't ride it.
Given the choice I'd ride that 2011 hands down. The M7 is a tractor and seems to keep going through a lot of stuff you think it wouldn't, but the little bit of extra HP gives the M8 a little more track speed that allows it to hold the front end up and feels more maneuverable. Re-entry type stuff is not happening with the M7 no matter how hard I try and the M8 will do it. A little of that might be the track length, but even in deep snow the M8 is more capable. Chassis on the M8 is lighter, but the extra motor weight from the 7 to the 8 platform probably makes it a wash.
T
I have a KMOD rear skid with raptor shocks, and raptor front shocks for that sled that I am looking to unload for cheap. PM me if interested.
And yes, that sled will be much better than your old M7. More power, especially bottom end, and the increased steering angle is really nice.
And yes, that sled will be much better than your old M7. More power, especially bottom end, and the increased steering angle is really nice.
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2010 is much better. Check the diamond drive bearing (they will fail). Check the primary clutch rollers. And go ride and have fun. Pretty bullet proof year. As for suspension...it's OK. But not bad enough to warrant spending a bunch of money on. Yeah, if you can find a deal go for it. But likely that the primary clutch is close to done...so save some coin for that.
Ditch the rear air shock. All the revalving in the world won't make it better. The rear suspension is progressive (leverage rate drops as is moves through the travel). The first gen floats on that sled are also really progressive before fox figured out air volumes. The combination is too much. You'll either run it too stiff to maintain ride height and never get full travel, or too soft for compliance and have a sled that squats.
It's not a big deal, the coil rear shocks from the base model are cheap.
Hundred bucks for the shock and 60ish for the spring. Can probably find used dirt cheap.
https://store.arcticcat.com/Parts#/...REAR_ARM_ASSEMBLY_[93317]/S2011M8H3EUSB/93317
Other than that, ripping sled. The best tune on that HO motor they ever released. And a revalve on the ski shocks will improve them.
M
Go with the old FOX Burandt kit, worked great on mine. Was horribly valves stock
I'll second all of this. Finally had my shocks revalved to '11 specs two years ago. WORLD of difference!! I'll add that if you're heavier than about 200lbs, Andy from GasShockRepair has a valving that will probably work better. I think there's more info in my thread here.
I put the wide bearing in my sled when I bought it, with about 2000 mi on it. It has close to 6000 on it now with no issues.
I rebuilt the clutch with new rollers once, but it disintegrated less than 1000mi later. I'd recommend that when the rollers get sloppy (it'll wear weights when the rollers are bad) you just spring for a new primary, and new weights if yours look at all worn.
Enjoy your new ride!!!
Thx for the info now just need southwest storms!
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