2014 M 8000 snopro intermitant loss of power

Jcox3 · Feb 9, 2018

Hey guys looking for some help with my kids sled . It a 2014 M8000 with 400Mi stock besides a can . Sled will run good for a few minuets then starts to bog and wont rev past 6700ish RPM
This is what I've done and im running out of parts to swap
Pulled and cleaned power valves
Verified power valve actuator is working
Changed fuel pump and fuel tank
Swapped out Seconday clutch
Checked primary clutch
Swapped exhaust
Disconnected Handel bar harness and brake light wiring
Swapped instrument cluster
Changed plugs
Swapped coil packs
Compression is 130-140 both holes
Sled seems to start acting up after i run at half throttle for a bit but doesn't seem to be loading up with fuel / oil
If i let it idle for a bit sometimes it starts working again for a short while
Any help appreciated

clutch · Feb 9, 2018

Check the reeds. Iv'e had issues with several 800s eating the reeds and doing similar to what you are describing.

kiliki · Feb 9, 2018

Stator?

Jcox3 · Feb 9, 2018

Everyone i talk to says the reeds will cause a bottom end problem ?
Im kinda thinking Stator just looking for some reassurance im going in the right direction .
Anyone replace a stator for this ?

summ8rmk · Feb 9, 2018

Lose a petal and u have no top end.

Alpha Cat......

beerios5 · Feb 10, 2018

What kind of can is it? Put the stock can back on and try it.

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Sledbrain2 · Feb 10, 2018

400 miles on a stator is fairly uncommon for them to fail. Usually they fail after 1500 miles or so. I have replaced several cat stators starting with a 1993 550, that one lasted 2800 miles, the rest were in the 1600 to 1800 range. Cat has address some of the heat issues with the lay down block compared to 90 degree blocks. My 1000 had 2800 on original stator.

Jcox3 · Feb 10, 2018

beerios5 said:
What kind of can is it? Put the stock can back on and try it.

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Ive tied a different can same thing

Jcox3 · Feb 10, 2018

summ8rmk said:
Lose a petal and u have no top end.

Alpha Cat......

But probably would be a consistent loss of power ? Not intermitant ?

Old & slow · Feb 10, 2018

Jcox3 said:
Hey guys looking for some help with my kids sled . It a 2014 M8000 with 400Mi stock besides a can . Sled will run good for a few minuets then starts to bog and wont rev past 6700ish RPM
This is what I've done and im running out of parts to swap
Pulled and cleaned power valves
Verified power valve actuator is working
Changed fuel pump and fuel tank
Swapped out Seconday clutch
Checked primary clutch
Swapped exhaust
Disconnected Handel bar harness and brake light wiring
Swapped instrument cluster
Changed plugs
Swapped coil packs
Compression is 130-140 both holes
Sled seems to start acting up after i run at half throttle for a bit but doesn't seem to be loading up with fuel / oil
If i let it idle for a bit sometimes it starts working again for a short while
Any help appreciated

When you cleaned the exhaust valves did you check cable adjustment? The 6700 rpm is right where the valves need to open, if the cables are adjusted a little long it may be stretching enough when warm to cause this. I would also check reeds with a little camera, just remove the exhaust to have a look.

kiliki · Feb 10, 2018

reed check will take nothing but time and maybe a few reed gaskets.
you can also take off the hood and tape the throttle open and look into the intake to see if you have a broken reed. I use a 80.00 harbor freight inspection camera

Sledbrain2 · Feb 10, 2018

sounds like you have a good running m8000 to take parts of, I guess I would see if the changing the stator out is the issue, its a pain especially having to take 2 sleds apart but better than buying a new one only find out its not the issue. Taking a cat flywheel off from my experience with a center bolt puller has never worked, I made my own puller out of plate steel using the recoil as a templet for the bolt hole. The plate steel contacts the housing and you use longer bolts into flywheel, you tighten each bolt a 1/4 turn until it pops, I have ruined 2 center puller type pullers before I tried this method, take much less force to pop it, sound back assworks but it works. Ace hardware will have the longer metric bolts

kiliki · Feb 10, 2018

use a 40.00 steering wheel puller and only turn the 3 bolts in by had 5 full turns. the trick I found was to use an impact gun but leave the center bolt about 2 full turns from hand tight this lets the bolt have a little speed and will pop it off almost every time. I have done many of them and only had one I had to apply the hair dryer too for a little heat.

BBP · Feb 10, 2018

Exhaust sensor?

Jcox3 · Feb 12, 2018

BBP said:
Exhaust sensor?

Changend it too , same deal

snoballssnoglory · Feb 12, 2018

Reeds. U lost a pedal I bet.

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xfiredude · Feb 13, 2018

Does the ecu tube have a smoked mark on it?

spoon · Feb 23, 2018

xfiredude said:
Does the ecu tube have a smoked mark on it?

What can that mean? Mine has a smoked mark about an inch after it comes out of box but issue I am having with mine is same even with a different ECU. I have seen that mark on lots of ECU hoses over the years.

xfiredude · Feb 25, 2018

spoon said:
What can that mean? Mine has a smoked mark about an inch after it comes out of box but issue I am having with mine is same even with a different ECU. I have seen that mark on lots of ECU hoses over the years.

Working on a theory. Smoke=fire. Something inside ecu burned up. Had a '14 in our group with running issues, and smoke mark on the inside of the tube. My '12 and a '13 are clear. The 14 got traded so fauq ette.

devin_bajus · Mar 9, 2018

Did you ever end up fixing this problem? My buddies sled is doing the same.

2014 M 8000 snopro intermitant loss of power

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