TPI 911 Response Clutch Cover

just wondered if any one has used one and what their thoughts were on them? seems like a good deal minus the weight, I just worry about how long I got before a rebuild on the primary is a must and I like that it can adjust the sheave clearance as the belt wears or if I choose to get a different belt without opening the clutch up. and well 250% more bushing wouldn't hurt ether! 911 Response Clutch Cover

$249.95

<!----><li class="breadcrumbs-item" data-hook="breadcrumbs-item" ng-repeat="item in $ctrl.items track by $index"> Home <!----><li class="breadcrumbs-item" data-hook="breadcrumbs-item" ng-repeat="item in $ctrl.items track by $index"> TRU-SHIFT PRIMARY COVER <!----> <!----> <!----> <!----> <!----> <!---->
<main-media product="galleryVM.product" data-hook="main-media" image-ratio="galleryVM.getMainImageRatio()" zoom="galleryVM.zoom" selected-index="galleryVM.selectedIndex" swipe-to-scroll="galleryVM.swipeToScroll" image-mode="galleryVM.settings.gallery.imageMode" navigation-type="galleryVM.getNavigationType()" is-selected-video-played="galleryVM.isSelectedVideoPlayed" image-loaded="galleryVM.heroImageLoaded()"><!----><slick class="main-media-carousel image-mode-crop slick-initialized slick-slider" style="display: block;" data-hook="product-page-media-item" ng-if="mainMediaVM.product.media.length" ng-class="[mainMediaVM.getImageModeClass()]" slick-tabindex=".none" slides-to-show="1" slides-to-scroll="1" infinite="false" speed="400" accessibility="false" settings="mainMediaVM.slickOptions"> <!----> <!---->



<!----> <!---->
<!---->//snowest.com/forum/<!----> <!---->
<!---->



<!----> <!---->


<!----><!----><!----> </slick><!----> <!----> <!----><!---->
</main-media> <!----> <!----> <slick class="thumbnails-carousel slick-carousel slick-initialized slick-slider" style="width: 180px; display: block;" data-hook="product-page-thumbnails" slick-tabindex=".thumbnails-trigger" slides-to-show="7" slides-to-scroll="1" infinite="false" speed="400" accessibility="false" settings="thumbnailsVM.slickOptions" ng-keydown="thumbnailsVM.keydown($event)" swipe="false" swipe-to-slide="false" focus-on-select="true" arrows="false"><!----> <button tabindex="0" class="thumbnails-trigger" data-hook="product-page-thumbnails-trigger" ng-click="thumbnailsVM.setSelected($index)"><!----> </button>
<button tabindex="0" class="thumbnails-trigger" data-hook="product-page-thumbnails-trigger" ng-click="thumbnailsVM.setSelected($index)"><!----> </button>
<button tabindex="0" class="thumbnails-trigger" data-hook="product-page-thumbnails-trigger" ng-click="thumbnailsVM.setSelected($index)"><!----> </button>


<!----><!----><!----> </slick><!---->
<!---->
</product-gallery>
<!----><section class="description" data-hook="product-page-description" ng-if="descriptionVM.description">
AVAILABLE IN BARE BILLET ALUMINUM OR BLACK ANODIZED
***ANY CUSTOM LETTERING IS FREE UNTIL INVENTORY RUNS OUT***


The indy specialty TRU-SHIFT billet primary cover was born out of the need for something stronger and more reliable. Crafted for high horse power sleds but a great addition to any polaris primary clutch.
The full circle cover adds strength to keep the clutch towers from flexing, the window design improves air flow for decreased clutch temeratures and the longer bushing improves shifting and lasts longer than a stock bushing. Our cover bushing is also very easy to change compared to the stock bushing that needs to be pressed out. By removing the six bolts anyone is able to change the bushing on our cover with nothing more than an allen wrench!!



some one on the other half of these forums made mention that indy was making something similar. it looks nice.. the norm for dan but it does look like he's using a traditional type bushing just bigger and the part as a whole looks lighter! just wanted to put this out their beacus they are simular and someone might have tried 1 over the other. first i have heard of another cap like this besides the 911s are their others? has any one tried dans?
</pre>
<!---->
</section><!----></product-description>

the only other clutch cover that addressed what I was originally looking for was indy dans as he was the only other one that increased the cap bushing size! all of the covers help to make the towers hold together in a more ridged fashion but don't address the other problems of these clutches. all do a good job by adding strength to them witch we need but I was trying to increase the over all life be for a rebuild is needed also!
I understand what you are saying about how it can effect things but I don't think the few MM that we might need to adjust on sheave clearance will have much if any adverse effect. we all set belt deflection constantly or at least those of us who are picky about our clutching but just deal with the sheave clearance getting worse and worse until we blow the belt or just toss it. most of us set the sheave to our kits or factory specks to start because it can make a big difference. the sheave clearance is just the other half of belt deflection IMO. and would be nice to adjust it with the deflection. I can understand how if it was off from the start and we just used the adjuster to make it right it might move everything enough to start having adverse effects but it should be set correct from the start and work a few MM in from their to avoid it getting wonky... again just my thoughts but every one I have talked to said they love them and just keep taking them off their last sled and putting them on the new one but then again I only talked to 2 people that have used them but nether has mentioned this problem? <!-- / message -->

yea icr it can, just look at it on the extreme end of things....if you made a full clutch out of carbon fiber it would be supper light spool really quick {all most like it hade no clutch on it} and would need heavier weights to keep the rpms down. on the other end, if the clutch was made of led or gold it would spool slow and sluggish and have a hard time hitting max rps and need lighter weights to achieve it. I don't know if the caps are heavy or light enough to cause this on either end {over or under tacking} but im sure you can see the concept behind it. fulcrum from the center of the clutch also plays a part in all of this but the formula for a set weight to a set dissents off of center.... well that's just well beyond my pea brain
to the best of my knowledge these clutches have ben the same basic blueprint since the early 2000 when the 800s were putting out 120-130 hp {as far as I know all they changed form the earlier models pre 2000 was a bigger cap bushing in the 800 only} now I am not talking about wider slots for the bigger twin weights or sheave angles ect. ect. just looking at the structural integrity of it. now we have 160 hp stock and we are on 200+ hp with the same basic clutches that were failing back then to! I am not suggesting that some of these covers don't work perfect as I have not tried any of them but just trying to show you why I am leery of a "lighter than stock" clutch cover that says they are just as strong or stronger than stock when the stock cover was insufficient for a 20 year old 120-130hp stock sled.. more so for the new 800 160 hp sleds and even MORE so for a turbo 800 pushing 200+ hp. all im trying to say is some things are better off being heaver and a lot stronger than a little lighter and a little bit stronger. stronger is better! but the real question to ask your self is, is it strong enough to hold up and last to the abusive way I ride...their is no 1 answer as maybe you ride sooooo mellow that you can get 3000-4000 miles out of your primary never touching them before a rebuild where im lucky to get 1000-1500 on mine cleaning them every time I get home!
and no I am not implying that you ride like a sissy just an example!

how do you not see how the weight of the clutch effects the max rpm not just the spool time? if you remove 1 pound off the outside edges of the clutches it changes how much weight is being spun. hmm how to explain this... if you add 10 pounds of weights to the outer edge of the clutch cover it would take more HP or lighter weights {and a different spring} to compensate for the extra weight being spun {don't quote me but I think spinning weight is like x7 for the spinning force .... cause and effect... if you are at full shift out weights pointed strait out and you then added 70 gram weights to the out side edge of the cap can you see how that would change the rpms just like adding different weights?


as for the crank its before the clutches and I don't have a good enough of an understanding on what or how much of an effect that has on rpms so my comments would be purely speculation based on no facts!
as for the weight lost weight on the clutch I don't know how much it would take to cause a real effect on rpm I just know it would very greatly depending on how much weight was added or subtracted and how far from the center of the clutch the weight was added or subtracted from. weight centered on a spinning clutch has a lot less effect on it than weight further out on it.

the last time I hade a sled that I worked on that hade ES. we took it off ring gear starter bat. all wiring and gained 50 Rs when we were finished. not a lot I know but like I said I don't know how much weight it takes at what distance off the center to make a big enough change to matter but all weight on the clutch effects spool speed and top rpms my guess would be that it has les of an effect on the top rpms because its on the fixed portion of the clutch witch is why I am not positive how much a lightened crank would effect the max RPMs. it might take a lot of weight to have a noticeable difference do to the fact that that doesn't effect the moveable portion... when you are at full shift out you can put weight on the back of your clutch and wont see as drastic of change as you would if you put it on the cap. does that make since to you.... it just does not try to pull the moveable part of the clutch witch is what effects the RPMs.... you understand why???