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New to me M1000 randomly dies off throttle wont restart right away, HELP

DTR

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I am thinking the TPS signal or something is screwing the PCM. Re adjust the TPS??

DO NOT adjust the TPS! A small movement will mess up the fuel the ECU injects (i.e. if the ECU thinks it is at partial throttle while you are really at WOT, it won't inject enough fuel, and it will score.

Snowball on the ECU?? There is no temp sensor in the ECU, putting a snowball on it does nothing except melt.

THere was a lean spot in the 07 and 08 maps, and the "re-start" fuel wasn't correct. Many times, unplugging the air-temp sensor would cure the problem. The 09 flash addressed this issue, and eliminated the restarting issue most of the time.


DTR
 

Bill1010630

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Check the wiring harness where it passes under the the front of the fuel tank, it gets pinched, rubs through and shorts out. Mine was replaced under warranty when it was new aswell as several others.
 

matt159

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Check the wiring harness where it passes under the the front of the fuel tank, it gets pinched, rubs through and shorts out. Mine was replaced under warranty when it was new aswell as several others.

I had exact same issue 2 seasons ago on my 2008 m8. The tail light wire had shorted out in the rear light enclosure and once the snow started to melt back there, it did not want to restart and had EXACTLY the same symptoms. Would eventually start & idle once, but would die as soon as you touched the throttle. Check wiring that goes under tank & seat all the way back to tail light.
 
A
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DO NOT adjust the TPS! A small movement will mess up the fuel the ECU injects (i.e. if the ECU thinks it is at partial throttle while you are really at WOT, it won't inject enough fuel, and it will score.

Snowball on the ECU?? There is no temp sensor in the ECU, putting a snowball on it does nothing except melt.

THere was a lean spot in the 07 and 08 maps, and the "re-start" fuel wasn't correct. Many times, unplugging the air-temp sensor would cure the problem. The 09 flash addressed this issue, and eliminated the restarting issue most of the time.


DTR

Where's the air temp sensor? Is this after it dies in mid stream, or only on a no-restart after being shut off on purpose?

Same thing as the guys above talking about the temp sensor (I assumed water temp)?
 

WyoBoy1000

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Where's the air temp sensor? Is this after it dies in mid stream, or only on a no-restart after being shut off on purpose?

Same thing as the guys above talking about the temp sensor (I assumed water temp)?

In the air box, kinda does the same thing as unplugging temp sensor or pressurizing the baro tube, tells the ecu to push more fuel.

I don't know how that works but when you do it with the temp sensor you pull it 2 or 3 times until it fires and dies, then plug it back in (or turn switch back on) then pull a few times and it will start.
 
A
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In the air box, kinda does the same thing as unplugging temp sensor or pressurizing the baro tube, tells the ecu to push more fuel.

I don't know how that works but when you do it with the temp sensor you pull it 2 or 3 times until it fires and dies, then plug it back in (or turn switch back on) then pull a few times and it will start.

Cool, thanks. I'll remember that.
 

DTR

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In the air box, kinda does the same thing as unplugging temp sensor or pressurizing the baro tube, tells the ecu to push more fuel.

Its the blue, 2-prong plug.


I don't know how that works but when you do it with the temp sensor you pull it 2 or 3 times until it fires and dies, then plug it back in (or turn switch back on) then pull a few times and it will start.

You need to have the kill switch and key on. If either are off, the ECU gets no power to adjust the map. Leaving the switch off only works on carb sleds or for working out your arms! :face-icon-small-hap

Why this works, is because there is a lean condition that occurs. By unplugging (either) temp sensor, and pulling it over, it sees a "problem" and goes to a fail-safe map, which adds fuel. The air temp sensor is just easier to get at then the H2O senso.


DTR
 

WyoBoy1000

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You need to have the kill switch and key on. If either are off, the ECU gets no power to adjust the map. Leaving the switch off only works on carb sleds or for working out your arms! :face-icon-small-hap

Why this works, is because there is a lean condition that occurs. By unplugging (either) temp sensor, and pulling it over, it sees a "problem" and goes to a fail-safe map, which adds fuel. The air temp sensor is just easier to get at then the H2O senso.


DTR


I know, some of us have switches wired into the temp sensor, so instead of unplugging it you just flip the switch, which disconnects the temp sensor and then you pull it until it sputters and turn it back on, but yes key has to be on.
Not sure if that is directed at my statement or not
 

DTR

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I know, some of us have switches wired into the temp sensor, so instead of unplugging it you just flip the switch, which disconnects the temp sensor and then you pull it until it sputters and turn it back on, but yes key has to be on.
Not sure if that is directed at my statement or not

Sorry, when you said switch, my mind was thinking "key / kill" switch! So, yeah a switch in the air sensor line would do the trick.
 

spoon

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I found with mine unplugging air sensor wouldn't reset the map, had to do the water temp sensor and it is a b**ch to unplug so I wired in switch.
 
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