"push rod" against block?

Mr Ripper · Oct 3, 2009

I pulled off my secondary to get to the spedo cable and I noticed something with the block. There is a "push rod" that is adjustable, with a bushing on the end. Looks as though it should be pushing against the motor, probably for engine vibration. But there is a very small gap between the block and rod. Should I snug it up against the block? Seems common sense...

bart0678 · Oct 3, 2009

no this is a torque stop for the motor. there should be a small gap in it. it allows to motor to flex under load from the clutches pulling together.
adam

Mr Ripper · Oct 3, 2009

perfect, just noticed it and thought it was odd.

bart0678 · Oct 3, 2009

any other questions that arise about the sled give me a shout. ive built and rebuilt many rmks. good luck
adam

ullose272 · Oct 3, 2009

how much of a gap?

Mr Ripper · Oct 3, 2009

not much, maybe 1 thread on the adjustment bolt

go high fast · Oct 3, 2009

I actually snug my up nice and tight against the motor hoping to elimnate all engine twist as possible. Even if it is snug against the motor the rubber will still have some flex in it for a bit of movement anyway. I've also used it to dial in clutch paralelism.

I also have one that goes forward and bolts to the steel part of the belly pan that pulls as the motor wants to move backwards under full torque.

So one pushes and one pulls...........the idea is no motor movement at all which optimizes clutch and belt persformance.

ullose272 · Oct 4, 2009

yea but that transfers alot of shock to the crank

volcano buster · Oct 4, 2009

I think the specs are 0.010-0.030" gap for the torque stop.

On my '05 700, I snugged it up to take the air gap out which seemed to help my belt life. I think I was getting to much misalignment under full power and it would start scruffing the side of the belt and working the cords out. Just a guess though.

JohnnyH · Oct 4, 2009

For a 03 Adjust gap between stop and engine
crankcase to .100"(2.5mm)
+- .010 "(.25 mm

devilrmk · Oct 4, 2009

Depends on who you talk to. Some like it snug some like it loose.

It creates more problems with the crank having it loose than it does tight. Anything you can do to keep the motor from moving is going to help out your clutches which also helps your crank live.

I keep mine snug, following the advice of many on the forum that have not had crank problems. I don't think it matters much as long as its not over .100" gap.

Ten-Zing · Oct 4, 2009

My personal preference was the more stuff I added to keep the engine in place, the tighter tolerance I would use with the rubber stop. Engine torque plate, Torque arm, push arm, and harder mounts. I figured it could be real snug with all the other things working to keep the motor still. And I wouldn't pay $40 for the push arm that goes on the recoil housing to not snug it up, so why not at least have it against the engine when not running?

Snorider · Oct 6, 2009

Just incase it was set to be against the block I would check out your motor mounts.

I run mine against the block, never had a problem, but everytime i started to notice a tiny gap i had a motor mount on the way out. just something to check out too.

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"push rod" against block?

Mr Ripper

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bart0678

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Mr Ripper

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bart0678

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ullose272

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Mr Ripper

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go high fast

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ullose272

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volcano buster

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JohnnyH

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devilrmk

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Ten-Zing

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Snorider

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