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8100 max rpm's after motor work, DJ help out!

S
Nov 12, 2009
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Ok, XP ran great with new motor work, full cpi pipe. Great tone, great throttle response, just wants to be wide open all the time. That said, I am still only reaching 8100rpm max in 1-2' of fresh snow on clicker #5. I haven't touched my clutching yet and ideally want 7900rpm on my tach for this set up. Any suggestions, which direction to go??
 

Dynamo^Joe

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Clicker 5
Have 8100 rpm
Want 7900 rpm

SweetxpRN writes) just wants to be wide open all the time.
Joe writes) explain the events? Does the engine response feel sluggish or squishy at any part throttle setting? Engine labors to 8100 rpms while you roll on or stab full throttle?

----------------------
What year of xp?
Is this stock clutching?
Stock flyweight?
You are using digital tach or needle tach?
 
S
Dec 2, 2007
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Cottonwood
Of course limited conditions

Clicker 5
Have 8100 rpm
Want 7900 rpm

SweetxpRN writes) just wants to be wide open all the time.
Joe writes) explain the events? Does the engine response feel sluggish or squishy at any part throttle setting? Engine labors to 8100 rpms while you roll on or stab full throttle?

----------------------
What year of xp?
Is this stock clutching?
Stock flyweight?
You are using digital tach or needle tach?

Needle tach, 09' xp (freemachz from DT). I changed the primary last year to what I think was a pur/pur?? I have to take it down and look. Possible need to find a better balance between prim/secondary. Between porting/milled head and full pipe it pulled hard from intial throttle through top end. Just want my clickers lower and figured I wouldn't have to be on clicker 5 to be at 8100rpms (where I was before motor work last winter). Thanks Joey.
D
 

winter brew

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Ok, XP ran great with new motor work, full cpi pipe. Great tone, great throttle response, just wants to be wide open all the time. That said, I am still only reaching 8100rpm max in 1-2' of fresh snow on clicker #5. I haven't touched my clutching yet and ideally want 7900rpm on my tach for this set up. Any suggestions, which direction to go??

Did you try just clicking down to get your 7900??
 

BossRev

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side note:

Who did the porting and head work?

cpi pipe....really???:confused:



I think brew is onto something.;) hitting 8100 and wanting 7900,
sounds like a simple adjustment of the clickers.
 
S
Dec 2, 2007
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That's funny!

Who did the porting and head work?

cpi pipe....really???:confused:



I think brew is onto something.;) hitting 8100 and wanting 7900,
sounds like a simple adjustment of the clickers.

Funny, love sarcasm. I am king of BS. Anyway, I like Mike up at CPI. I have seen some good and mediocre pipes come out of CPI. That said, for the port/mill/pipe and can I was well under what you would expect for cost. So, even if the pipe and can are sheat, I couldn't have had the head milled/ported and brokend down and rebuilt for that cheap! They are being Dyno'd and I will post what we ended up with for gains!

Obviously, I can turn down the clickers. One would think with the porting and pipe I would need to turn the clickers down. Instead, I am on #5 as I was last year and turning same RPM's. Conditions weren't ideal though. I will hold judgment until the TOG ride. I do recall reading something about the xp's not pulling r's somewhere though.
 
S
Dec 2, 2007
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Probably Mike's

I'll be interested to here the dyno report. Who's dyno will you be using?

I was impressed with "seat of the pants" feel yesterday, very crisp throttle, no bogging or lag at all from initial engagement through 3/4-full throttle.
Just don't want to be on clicker 5 and anticipated having to add pin weight, not dropping clicker to adjust for hp gains.
D
 

winter brew

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Funny, love sarcasm. I am king of BS. Anyway, I like Mike up at CPI. I have seen some good and mediocre pipes come out of CPI. That said, for the port/mill/pipe and can I was well under what you would expect for cost. So, even if the pipe and can are sheat, I couldn't have had the head milled/ported and brokend down and rebuilt for that cheap! They are being Dyno'd and I will post what we ended up with for gains!

Obviously, I can turn down the clickers. One would think with the porting and pipe I would need to turn the clickers down. Instead, I am on #5 as I was last year and turning same RPM's. Conditions weren't ideal though. I will hold judgment until the TOG ride. I do recall reading something about the xp's not pulling r's somewhere though.


Did you TRY clicking down? You may click down and not lose RPM....just load the engine harder and then click down even more to get the RPM you want. Some engine's need to be loaded to show their "stuff". Hope it works well for you :beer;
 
S
Dec 2, 2007
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Brew

Did you TRY clicking down? You may click down and not lose RPM....just load the engine harder and then click down even more to get the RPM you want. Some engine's need to be loaded to show their "stuff". Hope it works well for you :beer;

With the conditions as they were (nothing has set up) I didn't put too much emphasis on it YET. That said, I do want some feedback on possible fixes. As I said, I will pull the clutches apart this week and re-assess where I left things last winter.
Thanks for the input.
 
S
Dec 2, 2007
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makes great sense

Did you TRY clicking down? You may click down and not lose RPM....just load the engine harder and then click down even more to get the RPM you want. Some engine's need to be loaded to show their "stuff". Hope it works well for you :beer;

Clicking down with that pipe/port combo makes great sense.
I will keep you posted. Dyno numbers by Wednesday.
 

Dynamo^Joe

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I can't believe my post got deleted this morning.
Here we go again...

Clicker 5
Have 8100 rpm
Want 7900 rpm

-1 Clicker = about 200 rpms under full throttle.
You can clicker down however may lose engine rpm response - go do a full throttle run, check rpms.

-1 gram of flyweight = about 200 rpms under full throttle.
You can maintain clicker 5 and add a gram of flyweight to keep the quick engine response however get 7900 - go do a full throttle run, check rpms.

-10~15 lbs spring force = about 200 rpms under full throttle.
You can maintain clicker 5, and take the primary spring final force and reduce by 30 lbs(this will reduce about 10~15 lbs in the midrange track speeds) go do a full throttle run, check rpms.

You'll notice me mentioning about keeping the higher clicker number.
-Ramp angle determines the rpm acceleration from one rpm to-a-higher-rpm.
Higher angle = quicker rpm acceleration / time.
Lower angle = slower rpms acceleration / time.
 

skank

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Isnt the peak power on the cpi single pipe at 7900 anyway? Click down and load that baby up and I bet it rips on clicker 3 or 4! Cpi claims the power drops off quick with their pipe after 7900.
 
S
Dec 2, 2007
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Updates on test and tune

rode 3-4' of bottomless pow today.
This thing pulls hard now on clicker 4 and 18-19gm of wt at 8-10k'.
Great bang for the buck
Clutching needs to be spot on, I think it is. I will do a bit of tinkering once Joey and I talk. I am pretty close though
 
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