Does anyone know if they changed to a different bearing on the 2011's or am I going to have the same trouble with my new sled?
Thanks
Thanks
Instructions for replacing faulty bearing on diamond drive?
- Thread starter Dogmeat
- Start date
F
For me it's because I want to ride this weekend, and the dealers in my area are far away. Additionally it can take a very long time for them to get things done.
Hey Alex,
Did you by chance do this bearing replacement on the one I bought from you? I am going to tear into mine this weekend. Just curious if this is the original or not...
F
No, I don't think the 08's had the issue, but while you are in there, why not!
I took the dd apart 2x, inspected it, and cleaned it. Put new lube in and bolted it back in. The first year the original fluid was pretty dark, and the second year I was amazed, it looked almost like new gear lube:face-icon-small-sho
I think it had something to do with getting rid of the reverse actuator and putting on the lever... very little chance of ever not getting it into reverse all the way with that mod
I took the dd apart 2x, inspected it, and cleaned it. Put new lube in and bolted it back in. The first year the original fluid was pretty dark, and the second year I was amazed, it looked almost like new gear lube:face-icon-small-sho
I think it had something to do with getting rid of the reverse actuator and putting on the lever... very little chance of ever not getting it into reverse all the way with that mod
Thanks Lex. I just pulled mine apart and it looked great in there. The oil is a little dirty but not bad. I'm going to clean everything up and put in fresh oil.
Thanks again.
Z
so the 08s did not have a problem? i've just discovered these bearing threads after not being on snowest all summer and its got be kind of confused. with the 4203 and 5203 and machining .050 here and .014 there.... I'm going to open mine up this weekend.
Let me know what you find. I too am confused...
If AC does a warranty they will probably replace with the OEM 6203 bearing, but they wouldn't do that unless it is broken. I doubt they are going to take a peek inside unless there is something wrong.
Plus what some others have said - dealers are not always real close by.
K
I think it had something to do with getting rid of the reverse actuator and putting on the lever... very little chance of ever not getting it into reverse all the way with that mod[/QUOTE]
I'd love to see this lever you put on. Is this something somebody sells or did you make it? Thanks.
I'd love to see this lever you put on. Is this something somebody sells or did you make it? Thanks.
I'd love to see this lever you put on. Is this something somebody sells or did you make it? Thanks.[/QUOTE]
Here you go. Here is the lever that FCR112 put on.
http://www.peakdesignworks.com/PeakPerformancefrontpage.html
So, is there a reputable mechanic you all can recommend to just send a 2010 DD to and they will machine down and install the correct bearing?
I don't want to mess around with trying to find a machine shop who can do this all correctly. Would rather just ship out the DD and pay to have it come back ready to go and done right if thats possible?
I don't want to mess around with trying to find a machine shop who can do this all correctly. Would rather just ship out the DD and pay to have it come back ready to go and done right if thats possible?
Sierra - I'm with you on that one but I think they will need the trackshaft as well on a 2010.
From what I've read once you install the 5203 sealed bearing the case cover will most likely not freely mate up to the other half. The correct thing to do seems to be machine the end/s of the track shaft.
I did read a post or two on the other thread which suggested that both ends of the shaft should have equal amounts taken off in order to keep it centered. IIRC BDX told me it was easier to take it off the DD side because it was less critical on that end to get a good machine job.
If I understand the brake side shaft machining it appears to require removing some of the flange on the shaft rather than taking material directly off the end of the shaft.
There was also a post from a guy who took his DD to BDX and then he had to go back and get the driveshaft so it could be machined.
I'd say your best bet, unless someone comes up with a better plan, would be to call Black Diamond and see what they can do for you.
From what I've read once you install the 5203 sealed bearing the case cover will most likely not freely mate up to the other half. The correct thing to do seems to be machine the end/s of the track shaft.
I did read a post or two on the other thread which suggested that both ends of the shaft should have equal amounts taken off in order to keep it centered. IIRC BDX told me it was easier to take it off the DD side because it was less critical on that end to get a good machine job.
If I understand the brake side shaft machining it appears to require removing some of the flange on the shaft rather than taking material directly off the end of the shaft.
There was also a post from a guy who took his DD to BDX and then he had to go back and get the driveshaft so it could be machined.
I'd say your best bet, unless someone comes up with a better plan, would be to call Black Diamond and see what they can do for you.
D
Is the 6203 bearing designed to take a side load like the 5203? Or is the 6203 like the 4203 not being designed to take a side load?
I'm thinking if the 6203 is not meant to take a side load, and the 4203 is the same just a little wider. And I don't have to machine anything. I'm going with the 4203.
???
I'm thinking if the 6203 is not meant to take a side load, and the 4203 is the same just a little wider. And I don't have to machine anything. I'm going with the 4203.
???
The 4203 does not have the same side-load handling ability. I forget the term but it isn't the same spec. Not saying it isn't a good bearing or that it won't work but it isn't as good as the 5203 from what I've read.
I called the local bearing house and the 5203 is $35 and the 6203 is $8.
If I pull mine and the 6203 looks good I may just put a new one in for now and wait to see how this all plays out with the 2010 models.
I called the local bearing house and the 5203 is $35 and the 6203 is $8.
If I pull mine and the 6203 looks good I may just put a new one in for now and wait to see how this all plays out with the 2010 models.
D
Ya but is the 4203 any different than a 6203 other than the width?
The 4203 is a double row bearing vs the single row 6203. The bearing balls are smaller.
Edit - I'm guessing they are smaller. I don't have specs on that aspect.
Edit - I'm guessing they are smaller. I don't have specs on that aspect.
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H
Machining makes me nervous, and I live so far from any place that can do anything! I think I will give the 4203 bearing a whorl. It still has to be a major improvement over stock? Has anyone had a 4203 fail?
Catzr - if you can tell it is a side loading issue by looking at the bearing, can you clearly tell which angle the load is coming from?
Reason I ask is that there is a 7203 angular bearing option but that is a single row bearing so it would need to be installed in a certain direction.
Reason I ask is that there is a 7203 angular bearing option but that is a single row bearing so it would need to be installed in a certain direction.
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