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Roll-Over Valve kits for Proclimb M1100 from Four Stroke Solutions LLC

B
Feb 12, 2010
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This may be a silly question. But wouldn't it be possible just to put some kind of inline filter in the hose? Like a frogskinz material that would let the air through no problem but would slow down the oil. I really want to protect everything... but $200 seems steep. There has to be a cheaper solution
 

Snowmow

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With the vent comes humidity(water) water will collect in the breather filter, whater will freeze in the breather filter, filter will plug, crankcase will not breath and you get the picture?!?
 

MTN_VIPER

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This may be a silly question. But wouldn't it be possible just to put some kind of inline filter in the hose? Like a frogskinz material that would let the air through no problem but would slow down the oil. I really want to protect everything... but $200 seems steep. There has to be a cheaper solution

The reason filters are not used, is that in order to stop or slow down the oil the filtering material would have to be so fine, that it may not allow for proper crankcase breather air flow. Also once oil/moisture has been exposed to the filtering material, the filter can become restricted, or even freeze closed as mentioned above by Snowmow.

Because any pressure build up within the oil tank can have a negative effect on dry sump oil pump scavenge flow rate. It is critical that the internal pressure within the oil tank be as close to 0 psi as possible anytime the engine is running. Crankcase breather air flow must be able to flow freely without a restriction, which is why the breather hoses are normally 5/8” to ¾” in diameter depending on the application.

Oil tank venting air flow increases dramatically as RPM/engine load increases, manufacturers typically will opt to tie the breather vent into the engine air intake after the engine air filter. This eliminates the possibility of a restriction in the breather vent system, due to a plugged breather filter, while at the same time insures that the air exposed to the oil tank is clean and filtered.
 
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Sage Crusher

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Just to give the valve a :thumb::thumb:I also asked many time options for this unique product.
The customer service is awsume / the valve does work
( yep not by choice) and there is no getting around a product that protects the turbo as this one does.....
If your gonna fly - this is just part of the required gear to ensure protection....... and we all should know how simple protection is..:D LOL


S/C
 

MTN_VIPER

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ROV kits for the XF7000/Viper in the works.

Here is the latest summer project that I have been working on, ROV kits for XF7000/Viper sleds!
Progress is coming along nicely, just waiting for my new sled to come in so that I can do some final fitment and testing.

Bill

IMG_2135.jpg
 
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Bendy

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First mod I did

I also can't believe these sleds don't come with a ROV! You could lose an engine, limb or even life. A great purchase for anyone with a 4S. It would even make a great Christmas gift.
 
R

Ride_The_Rockies

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Jun 19, 2002
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I am a 2 Smoke guy and don't know much about the 4S. So say you get stuck and some times its easier to roll the sled over can you turn off the motor in a 4s and roll it over or does oil still leak in places it shouldn't?
 

Bendy

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Oil still leaks out of the engine

I am a 2 Smoke guy and don't know much about the 4S. So say you get stuck and some times its easier to roll the sled over can you turn off the motor in a 4s and roll it over or does oil still leak in places it shouldn't?

If you can get the sled to land on its skis everytime you'd be OK. I don't have that kinda luck.
 

MTN_VIPER

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If you can get the sled to land on its skis everytime you'd be OK. I don't have that kinda luck.

LOL! Yeah I hear ya on that one!

Ride_The_Rockies,

When a four stroke sled is laying on its side or upside down, oil can leak out of the dry sump/crankcase breather hose. Some models/brands will leak faster than others and in all cases if the engine is still running while its on its side oil can leak out a much faster rate.

Bill
 

PISTONPETE

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Hello Bill, i just picked up a valve unit from Gene at WKM( very nice kit by the way )I was wondering what to do with mine since i have an external intake filter set up now and the exit of the valve i have no place to plug it. Should, or can i leave it open and what would the best routing be so it doesn't hang over the secondary????

Thanks for any advice..
 

MTN_VIPER

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Hi PISTONPETE,
Normally what I'll do is attach a hose to the valve and then route it down torwards the belly pan. This helps keep any possible oil vapor away from the clutches. Usually you'll want the hose to terminate in a fairly dry area, so that it doesn't sit in melting snow/ice. Low behind the motor and away from the exhaust is a good spot.

Also on custom installations it is extremely important that the 90 degree fitting be attached to the hose that runs over to the air/oil separator tank. The valve flows air both directions, but if it is installed backwards it may not allow the breather system to flow correctly.

If your kit is the standard kit (without the ROVCM) then I recommend positioning the valve so that the solenoid end of the valve is angled upwards, to help the valve drain. (when the valve is installed in the air intake this automactically positions the solenoid upwards).
If your kit is equipped with a ROVCM, then there is a little more flexiability as far as how the valve is angled due to the strong closing power that the ROVCM provides.

HTH
Bill
 

MTN_VIPER

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XF7000/Viper ROV kits w/Quick-prime

I've just added a new feature to the Viper/XF7000 ROV kits, a Quick-prime switch.
Now re-priming the oil pump on a Viper/XF7000 is as simple as pushing a button on the dash and holding it for a few seconds!
If the oil pump has lost it's prime and the oil light is on after a roll-over. Just push and hold the Quick-prime switch and start the engine. The ROV LED will flash letting the rider know that the ROVCM has closed the shut-off valve, then as soon as the oil light goes out release the Quick-prime switch. Normally re-priming will occur in approx 2-3 seconds.

Bill
 

Bendy

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Just flatout awesome!

Can't overstress the need for a ROV. 4SS has an awesome product. For me it was a good reason to learn to deal with wearing a tether! I always hated wearing it. Always getting caught up on everything. Even with all incidents we see/hear of with guys being sucked into the tracks, I still thought it wouldn't happen to me. It took a possible engine failure to get me to wear it. Whatever works I guess. When I ride my 2S, I now wear it.
 

MTN_VIPER

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Preseason maintenance

Preseason sled maintenance reminder,
For those who are running a ROV, I like to add a small amount of Sil-Glide (silicone grease) or dielectric compound to the inside of the rubber tether plug.

It's also a good time to check the shut off valve to see if it needs cleaning. A quick and easy way to test the valve for cleaning, is to touch the valve housing with your fingers. Then with the key on, pull the tether cord and you should be able to feel/hear a light "click" as the valve closes. If it clicks then your good to go. If no click is felt or heard, then the valve may need cleaning.
The cleaning procedures can be found at http://fourstrokesolutionsllc.webs.com/periodicmaintenance.htm

Caution, do not use brake cleaners to clean the valve. Some brake cleaner contains chemicals that can swell the rubber seal inside the valve and damage it.

Bill
 
F
Apr 5, 2009
717
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im wanting to make my harness longer to be able to route wires better than what it is. will I have problems splicing wires into it? as long as I get all the wires hooked back up to the correct ones I should be fine im thinking.

thanks
 
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